Anyone familiar with this? The Michelin guidebook doesn't mention the hub for brake replacement/inspection, but does say under the rear axle hub bearing removal: "First remove wheel, then brake drum". Great help! I can't see any seam where the drum would come off without removing the entire hub/bearing, etc.

Thx
Sam

 

If the brakes are very worn there could be a groove in the drum and the pads are getting hung up. Remove the rubber plug on the backing plate, on the bottom, and adjust the star adjuster in so that the pads are retracted.

 

I've got no problem with that, but HOW do I remove the drum? Do I remove the axle or not. If not, where does the drum seperate?

 

Does the outer axel have 8 external bolts?

If Yes, you will have to remove the bolts, then put a pan below the axel to catch the fluid, once the bolts are out you can then pull the axel assembly out, you will then see a large NUT, you will have to get a screwdriver or small chisel and carefully knock the (LOCK-TABS) which secure the outer NUT, once you have completed this step you can then remove the first (NUT), then remove the spacer that has the lock tabs, you will then have to remove the main NUT, after you have removed this inner NUT, you will see the OUTER BEARING, you still may have to back off the brake adjustment as there may be a ridge on the drum, other wise at this point carefully slide the drum back (It will be A little Heavy!), and yes the fluid inside the hub will probably leak on the inside of the Drum!, Brakekleen works great for cleaning!.

When Re-installing reverse this prcedure, and make sure you put fluid back into the hub after you re-install the drum, do this before you put the bearing back in, fill it just below the line, but don't overfill, it tends to leak past the seal, thus causing a comeback!.

Tighten the inner nut until it stops, then go a quater turn, install the spacer, then install the second nut, tighten this one, then knock the lock tabs back over the outer nut, you will then have to clean the hub face and axel face, either install a new gasket or Silicone works well here, apply it to the axel side in a circle pattern around the holes, then re-install axel, install bolts and get the Air Gun Out!

P.S Don't forget to check the Differential level after your DONE!

Good Luck

Mr.Rob

Lic Mech Auto/Truck/Trailer Ect!

 

That's what I was afraid of

Thanks for your help. Interesting how the Michelin guide says to first remove the drum BEFORE pulling the bearing.

Thanks for the help.

 

Don't worry!

Once you remove the Bolts and Pop out the Axel, it's really pretty staight forward, it just takes a little longer, once you have done one side you should fly through the other side!

Mr.Rob

 

Mrrob is correct. It really isn't a lot of trouble, pretty straight foreward. Just take your time and look things over some. The hardest part may be finding a socket large enough to remove the first nut. You may get it with a large set of channel locks. Make sure to fold the lock tabs back first like stated. Your local parts store or shop may loan a hub socket as well to remove it. Most likely it will be 3/4 drive so make sure to borrow a 1/2-3/4 adaptor or ratchet as well.

 

My 85' F250 3/4 ton has a full floater and the hub just pulled off after releasing the brake shoes. It may not look like their is a seam, double check.

 

Yes!

Make sure you use the correct socket when removing the NUT!, if you cheat and use the good old Chisel method you will never know if the bearing is seated properly.

Mr.Rob

 

On my 1986 3/4 4x4 all I do is remove the tire & rim and remove the drum. Now if it is rusty or as stated above the brake shoes are hanging up, alittle more work is involved. Other wise you should beable to just remove the drum.

 

kermmydog you have a semi-floater rear axle. Ford used two axles depending on the weight rating of the truck the higher rating 8400lb gvw used a full floater with two wheel bearings on a spindle the axle shaft does not carry any load or whieght force just twist with a semi-floater you have one wheel bearing and the axle carries the weight and twisting force somewhere along the line the truck manufactures deciced that a full floater was overkill for a truck with lesser gvw rating

 

If You have a Sterling rear diff, the drum is outboard of the hub, and it's the same as a semifloater, back the shoes off and pry it loose.
If you have a Dana axle, the drum is inboard, and the hub has to come off.
Easy way to tell, the Dana axles have the fill plug in the diff cover, while the Sterlings have it in the casting beside the pinion.

 

Well I know it's been what... a few months since I started this thread? Anyway, I never got to it until today. I noticed the outside of the drum covered with oil so I had to go at it.

I removed the axle and found just one big nut with a single key. There weren't two nuts nor a locking washer, so I don't know what category my truck falls under.

Anyway, just removed the nut and the drum came right off. The inner seal was shot and the entire brake area was dripping with oil. I put everything back together and will get the parts today. Only stupid thing I did was to not measure parts. When I check for wheel seals, they're asking way too many questions. Full floating or semi floating, 12x3 or 12x2.5 brakes. Sheesh... I should have measured things. And I have no idea whether I have full or semi floating. What's the difference?

 

You definately have a full floating axle. You'll have to measure the width of the shoes, though.