Ok, so I have a bit of an interesting problem. I am trying to take the brake drums off of my 55 F100 and can't for the life of me figure out how they are held on. I also don't know if they are stock ford drums or something off a Chevy. The truck has some sort of chevy rear end in it but the bolt pattern off the drums for the wheels is a Ford. Where I am at is I have the wheel off and one of the studs coming out of the drum is just spinning. On most other cars I have worked on, the studs are pressed into someing inside the drum and then the drum slides over the studs. When you remove the wheel you can usually pull the drum off as well or use a small bolt as a jacksrew to get them off. On this setup it appears that the studs might be pressed into the drum leaving me wondering, what the heck holds the drum to the axle? Anybody seen anything like this before? The truck was originally used as a drag car back in the 70's so there are lots of "interesting" bits and pieces that are either not stock or modified on this truck.

Keith

 

can you post some pictures for us to look at? that might help

Sam

 

I have seen narrowed rear axles made up of a Chevy center section with Ford tubes and ends welded on. Brakes are Ford and axle shafts are Ford shortened with new splines machined to fit the Chevy center section.

Why? Who knows. Sometimes the drum rusts onto the flange pilot and studs. I have also seen the flange tapped where the studs screw into the flange. If you cannot get the drums off, look for some flat head screws that are holding the drum to the flange. Sometimes they get all rusted up so that they are hard to see. You may want to try "double nutting" a stud and try to back it out. Good luck.

 

I will see if I can get some pictures in the next day or so. The strange part is that the studs seem to be pressed into the drum. I looked for some screws holding the drum on but didn't find any. I even went as far as blasting the front of the drum with a spot grit blaster to see if there was anything hiding under the rust. Is there an exploded view available somewhere on the net that shows a stock ford rear brake setup. Maybe some pictures will help me figure out how this axle/brake setup has been modified.

Keith

 

My Boat trailer has spindles/wheels off a 1946 Buick Special. The lug nuts are attached to the studs and the studs come out with the nuts to remove the wheel.

Whether or not this is the case with yours or if the head of the stud has simply corroded and is spinning (which I have not seen - but have limited exposure to) remains to be seen.

Also, they are fine thread. So it's gonna take some turns to get it out. I'd try some more and see if after 20 turns or so the thing isn't backing out.

 

Could the drums be like on the bigger trucks where you have to remove the whole hub and drum? I know on the bigger trucks the drum actually snaps into a grove on the hub. You have to remove the center grease cap and remove the axle nut and slide the whole drum and hub assembly off as one unit.
The drums are a bear to get off/over the hub if needed. But, if the brakes aren't locked up and the wheel spins, remove the whole assembly.

 

How about this for a fix? Is it possible that the shoes have worn into the drum so far that they are acting as a locking mechanism? To find out if this is the case, back off the star adjuster about 4 or 5 turns and see if the drum comes off. Jag

 

Years ago I had some drums stuck to the brake shoe from rust because somebody kept using them after the brake linning was all gone . Knowing the drums were allready shot , I used a torch to heat and expand the drums to get them started . Needlees to say I had to get new drums , I hope you have better luck .

 

yeh, I've seen that before..

sam

 

Can you find any markings on the differential giving us a clue to what you are dealing with?
Without having a picture and or knowing what axel and drum set up you have is like rebuilding a transmission with a blindfold on. Lol.
If it’s a stock rear then the drum is just slipped onto the studs and end of the axel.
However on these old trucks I’ve often seen them weld rust themselves onto the axel and have to be torched to get them off.
First use plenty of penetrant around the axel and studs and let it set for a while. Give it a couple of good whacks with a hammer on the outer edge of the drum and see if this breaks it loose.
Pictures would be your best bet.
I am sure someone here could then identify just what you have.
Let us know.

 

Since you are a new user maybe you never noticed but the question ask was done years ago on 08-31-2009 . It's a mistake a lot of us make at first any how i have so don't let it bother you it's all in the learning of doing it .

 

Noticed that.
Thought the advice may be helpful in the future.
Thanks