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My backup alternator is a 240V one from KEI. KEI looks like it is undergoing some marketing (web interface) changes, but they still offer the same products. Seems they target the Fire and EMS arenas for alternator sales. I have occasionally switched back-and forth between it and my DC Power alternator, and have been happy with the KEI unit.
My backup alternator is a 240V one from KEI. KEI looks like it is undergoing some marketing (web interface) changes, but they still offer the same products. Seems they target the Fire and EMS arenas for alternator sales. I have occasionally switched back-and forth between it and my DC Power alternator, and have been happy with the KEI unit.
I'll for sure take a look at DC Power, KEI and Lees before I order. For now I went with a reman 135a from Napa as they gave me half off on the unit which is just over $200 and it has a lifetime warranty and 90 return so I'll return it when I get one of those 3 units. Keeping the 135a Bosch in the truck as a backup btw! I'm pretty sure the overdrive pulley contributed to the issues with the Bosch, but just speculation on my part.
Well not sure if this is anything to be concerned about, but the reman unit I just picked up makes a good deal of noise when spinning the pulley wheel. Got the overdrive pulley put on and unit in the truck and just topping up the batteries for a couple hours then I'll start er up while monitoring the voltages via FORScan. Crossing my fingers here lol 🤪
Good luck! I have no idea what mine sounded like before I put it on, but I’ll be changing the belt before too long so I’ll check. If I remember to when I do it lol
Oh! I have the other brand new one in the garage…I’ll check it when I get a chance. Again, if I remember to… 😂
You referring to the previous 140a unit that caused the trans flaring or the current 135a Bosch unit?
Going to swap alternator today for a new 140a from Napa or Partsource and when i get back from my trip I'm going to upgrade to a 230a LN and completely redo/upgrade the wiring as well. Will definitely be bringing the Bosch unit with me on my trip as a back up!
I didn't see the 140 at Napa. What's the part number for it?
I didn't see the 140 at Napa. What's the part number for it?
It's actually a 135amp and I don't have the part# on hand at the moment. It comes out to over 500CAD after taxes, but I get the friends and family discount so only paid 260CAD. It's keeping my voltage around 13.75-14 and both my FICM voltages mainly showing 14 and the other FICM voltage is steady at 50 so the Bosch unit was down quite a bit after only 1 year the POS!
It was $227 - (10%) making it $204 with tax. The "core" is $60 and I have one to give them so I'm keeping my OEM alternator
Here's the numbers:
Original ALT : IDLE---87A (GP's still glowing)..........2000RPM---125A
After GP drop out: IDLE---75A........2000RPM 60A
-----------------------------------
135A NAPA REMAN
IDLE(GP's still glowing) ----115A........2000RPM---160+ Amps
After GP drop out, currents were similar to the OEM ALT at Idle and 2000RPM
All measurements were aken with a Fluke 189 multi-meter and a Fluke i1010 AC/DC Clamp directly on the ALT output.
The actual alternator swap was of course pretty easy, and took probabl6y 15 min or less.
Getting my 1/2" ratchet on the tensioner took me almost an hour to get the square peg in the square hole because it's nearly impossible to find the hole and I kept burning my arm on the components close by!! And of course, the square hole doesn't "line" up right to use a "breaker-bar"
It was pretty frustrating! Nice that they supplied a "kick-stand to hold it once it was moved far enough. (I couldn't pull the belt far enough to move the pensioner enough.....Maybe if I had Tyrus here to do that!!)
Looks like you can index the 1/2" drive "peg" a little either way to get the handle into a comfortable position!
I KNOW I'll be doing this again! so I have one coming on Tuesday!!
There would've been a LOT less 4-letter words if I had asked about this last week!!
I have always used either a ratchet or "breaker" bar!!
Anyway, I am happy with the alternator performance. I would think that NAPA reman stuff is probably OK. I've bought a few others from them and they outlasted my ownership of the car!
I have had this truck for 20 years and if I even think of getting another one, it might be a much newer Ford PS.
But this one is so low miles, it runs so good, always been kept inside so it still looks new.....NAH....I'll just keep it!
I've mostly used my long-handle ratchet, usually paired with a 3/4" socket on a 1/2" extension on the handle for more leverage. But I don't have a stator. I bought that tool as part of my travel tool kit for the 6.0L and have used it lately.
You can also use a pry bar to pull the belt, which pulls up the tensioner so the kickstand can be locked. But on my original tension, the kickstand was gone.
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