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So it was in October after a 40 mile drive, farm to home, 132F with the Leece-Neville. I’m not sure if AC was on. I’ve not had any issues with it other that it’s initial higher voltage drives the GPCM crazy.
So it was in October after a 40 mile drive, farm to home, 132F with the Leece-Neville. I’m not sure if AC was on. I’ve not had any issues with it other that it’s initial higher voltage drives the GPCM crazy.
Hmmmm, going to see if there's a way to calibrate my thermal gun or test it on a few things at least to make sure it's giving me accurate numbers cause my voltages are pretty good today after having battery tender plugged in all night. Also going to make sure my alternator isn't missing it's internal cooling fins!
If memory serves me correctly i believe i tried a 140a upper before going with the current Bosch 135a and it made the engine run weird and caused the transmission to flare even when going from 1st to 2nd gear right off of a stop(unlike the normal 3-5 flare from KAM relearning)that's why I went with the Bosch and it read over 14v on Livewire with both FICM volts being a steady 14v as well.....all those are lower now so something is up.
My Airdog unit and engine rpm have been acting up lately and everything with them checks out fine and the Bosch unit looks to be giving out over 14v when testing negative battery and positive on alternator, but with it getting to 190f and over I'm wondering now if the Bosch is surging or something like causing the lift pump and engine rpm to "act up" so I'm just going to swap out for a new 140a upper alternator today and see if anything changes.
My DCPower is about that old and still going as well. That said, I had a DCPower alternator before this one that failed pretty quickly. My opinion - no one has a 100% record (good or bad) on alternators. That said, I do believe that there are MANY out there of marginal quality.
Anyone know if an upper alternator for a dual system will work fine on it own in a single system?
If you decide to take the lower alternator out of the system, there is a dummy plug you need to put into the harness. I removed the lower on my ‘05 so I could install the non-squished charge pipe. The bad thing about the 2 alternator system in these is you don’t have any indication you have one that’s bad, until they both go bad. Double the money, double the fun.
I found the dummy plug and charge pipe at a local junk yard.
If memory serves me correctly i believe i tried a 140a upper before going with the current Bosch 135a and it made the engine run weird and caused the transmission to flare even when going from 1st to 2nd gear right off of a stop(unlike the normal 3-5 flare from KAM relearning)that's why I went with the Bosch and it read over 14v on Livewire with both FICM volts being a steady 14v as well.....all those are lower now so something is up.
My Airdog unit and engine rpm have been acting up lately and everything with them checks out fine and the Bosch unit looks to be giving out over 14v when testing negative battery and positive on alternator, but with it getting to 190f and over I'm wondering now if the Bosch is surging or something like causing the lift pump and engine rpm to "act up" so I'm just going to swap out for a new 140a upper alternator today and see if anything changes.
Then it most likely had a bad diode, which won't necessarily show as a change in voltage.
If you decide to take the lower alternator out of the system, there is a dummy plug you need to put into the harness. I removed the lower on my ‘05 so I could install the non-squished charge pipe. The bad thing about the 2 alternator system in these is you don’t have any indication you have one that’s bad, until they both go bad. Double the money, double the fun.
I found the dummy plug and charge pipe at a local junk yard.
My 06 F250 is a single alternator system and just asking if a 140a upper dual unit will work as that's all I can find in stock that's new and ready to pickup today, everything else is 110a.
Leaving for a trip tomorrow so looking to swap the alternator today and see if my gremlins go away and if not I'll check the temp on the new alternator and if for some reason it gets as hot as the current Bosch unit is getting then that will at least tell me there's something else at play here requiring further diagnosis.
Then it most likely had a bad diode, which won't necessarily show as a change in voltage.
You referring to the previous 140a unit that caused the trans flaring or the current 135a Bosch unit?
Going to swap alternator today for a new 140a from Napa or Partsource and when i get back from my trip I'm going to upgrade to a 230a LN and completely redo/upgrade the wiring as well. Will definitely be bringing the Bosch unit with me on my trip as a back up!
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Alternator
