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Since @460FordBaby tested his harness, replaced both his solenoid pack and plug and still had issues, then he likely had a bad ECM.
Odd however, since he claimed this, just prior:
Originally Posted by 460FordBaby
Update on this - I unplugged the solenoid plug (again) to find the oring was not seated correctly. I removed the o ring as a test and the transmission shifted as normal, pulled it apart again to reseat the oring. Ended up coating the dielectric grease and reassembling - now the issue is back (stuck in 3 or 4th gear).
I am starting to thing the plug is the issue.
Sure seemed like he had found it but things went south again. Very strange.
For those who don't know, when the E4OD looses power, it will start in OD in the D position. You'll have manual 2 in both the manual 1/2 positions (reverse will still work). If this happens, don't jump the gun. Simply check for any blown fuses, and the ECU/ECM relay in the under hood fuse box first.
So though he had power at the solenoid pack connector, it wasn't actually powering them. I don't see why a new pack and a new connector didn't fix his issue, unless perhaps he mistakenly installed 95+ stuff in his older trans or something like that. Maybe the ECU was still working intermittently and it just happened to work for a spell, right after he was messing with stuff. That's tough when that happens. When something electrical goes, it's always nice when it just goes, otherwise it can be a pain to troubleshoot.
Maybe he'll reply back with an update for curious minds.
Since @460FordBaby tested his harness, replaced both his solenoid pack and plug and still had issues, then he likely had a bad ECM.
Odd however, since he claimed this, just prior:
Sure seemed like he had found it but things went south again. Very strange.
For those who don't know, when the E4OD looses power, it will start in OD in the D position. You'll have manual 2 in both the manual 1/2 positions (reverse will still work). If this happens, don't jump the gun. Simply check for any blown fuses, and the ECU/ECM relay in the under hood fuse box first.
So though he had power at the solenoid pack connector, it wasn't actually powering them. I don't see why a new pack and a new connector didn't fix his issue, unless perhaps he mistakenly installed 95+ stuff in his older trans or something like that. Maybe the ECU was still working intermittently and it just happened to work for a spell, right after he was messing with stuff. That's tough when that happens. When something electrical goes, it's always nice when it just goes, otherwise it can be a pain to troubleshoot.
Maybe he'll reply back with an update for curious minds.
Thank you for the reply as well as your helpful thread on the connector. I had my PCM and Hydra tested, Diesel Tech of Chattanooga put them in one of their trucks and it controlled everything fine. I had my solenoid pack replaced on the trans as well tested a whole new harness going from the fender liner connectors to the solenoid pack, unfortunately same symptoms. Transmission starts out in high gear.
Power is at pins 1&12, and when plugging in the connector with the key on, I can hear the solenoids click in the transmission. Ive seen many threads diagnosing this issue get to about this point, but nothing further. Any and all help is appreciated!
Thank you for the reply as well as your helpful thread on the connector. I had my PCM and Hydra tested, Diesel Tech of Chattanooga put them in one of their trucks and it controlled everything fine. I had my solenoid pack replaced on the trans as well tested a whole new harness going from the fender liner connectors to the solenoid pack, unfortunately same symptoms. Transmission starts out in high gear.
Power is at pins 1&12, and when plugging in the connector with the key on, I can hear the solenoids click in the transmission. Ive seen many threads diagnosing this issue get to about this point, but nothing further. Any and all help is appreciated!
Very unusual. Then, suspect the stuck solenoid regulator valve here:
(keep up on trans fluid change intervals, one it's removed and freed up manually. You'll want to pick up some "valve body bore brushes" or take it to trans shop and say here "fix this please".)
Side note; apparently you'll have high pressure readings at the test port when you have an electrical issue causing 4th gear start (like 99.9% of the time a blown fuse or bad connection at the pack plug), but in the case when this valve sticks, the trans will read normal.
Very unusual. Then, suspect the stuck solenoid regulator valve here:
(keep up on trans fluid change intervals, one it's removed and freed up manually. You'll want to pick up some "valve body bore brushes" or take it to trans shop and say here "fix this please".)
Side note; apparently you'll have high pressure readings at the test port when you have an electrical issue causing 4th gear start (like 99.9% of the time a blown fuse or bad connection at the pack plug), but in the case when this valve sticks, the trans will read normal.
Very interesting. This is a brand new Stage 2 trans. I suspect a bad replacement solenoid pack, but i will definitely look at this while the trans is apart. Thank you
Very unusual. Then, suspect the stuck solenoid regulator valve here:
(keep up on trans fluid change intervals, one it's removed and freed up manually. You'll want to pick up some "valve body bore brushes" or take it to trans shop and say here "fix this please".)
Side note; apparently you'll have high pressure readings at the test port when you have an electrical issue causing 4th gear start (like 99.9% of the time a blown fuse or bad connection at the pack plug), but in the case when this valve sticks, the trans will read normal.
On second thought, would this still be the case if I am able to manually put the transmission in 2nd gear?
On second thought, would this still be the case if I am able to manually put the transmission in 2nd gear?
my friend had a f250 which was all over the place and only had 2 gears, which was 2nd and 4th, because his manual valve wasnt indexed properly, but i think it would depend on "how its" indexed
this was his manual valve in park
Alright, huge thanks to @FORDF250HDXLT . Once going back into the trans and replacing the solenoid pack for the 3rd or 4th time, I looked closer at the Solenoid Regulator Valve in the valve body. I sprayed some brake cleaner into the port of the valve and wiped with a lint free cloth to see… a stuck valve. I took a soft tipped pick and gave a little pressure on the sprung side of the valve, no movement. I then decided to drop the valve body to remove the valve and inspect what was wrong.
It was certainly stuck in there, had a hard time removing. However, no debris to be found! As a reminder to my issue, this is a brand new Stage 2 transmission with new cooler lines and a flushed 6.0 cooler up front. All new. Fluid is beautiful. No reason for a valve to be stuck solid. I polished the valve with some 2000 grit and trans fluid, and re-installed in the bore smoothly. I then put the valve body back in, with the original solenoid pack, and we have all gears!!
The new issue is that it will not go into 3rd unless I get the RPMs up, and then completely let off the throttle and get back into it. I can see via my CTS3 that the PCM is commanding, but it must be something in the valve body. I have already gotten with the trans builder, and they are sending me another valve body to try.
The original symptoms were 100% mimicking a bad solenoid pack, so I am hopeful to help some others out that were as stumped as I was in other threads. Drop your valve body and check the solenoid regulator valve!!
I ended up putting in a rebuilt E4OD from Certified Transmissions - Still had the same problem, one thing to note. When I was testing the solenoid in the old trans by powering the pins w/ 12v I ended up crossing the alligator clips and threw some sparks. I believe this blew my PCM.
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