I've been putting together a pile of parts for the last 4 months and this week is THE week. While I'm in there, I plan on doing a few other changes of course. I am getting rid of the coolant re-route and going with a more conventional delete, though different than I've seen. Also gonna copy Jack's rigid heater hose mod. I am replacing the stock exhaust manifolds with BD Diesel's, and I have ordered Bumax 88 stainless bolts and 304 stainless spacers for mounting them.

I did compression testing yesterday and everything was better than expected. The glow plugs were big fun. More on that here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...mpression.html

Here's the compression test numbers:



So far today, I have torn down the top of the engine, front of the engine, up-pipes and manifolds, removed oil rails, injectors, and stand pipes. Considering pulling the HPOP cover and oil cooler to make it easier sanding the deck surfaces. Also wondering if it's worth the trouble to tear down the front end for easier access to stand directly in front of the engine while working.

 

It’s much easier to have the fan and radiator out so you can be close to the engine. Cleaning the decks will be a PITA with the block in the truck.

Watch how you are keeping the pressure on whatever you are using for your sanding block. It’s very easy to push down when going over edge, which can round over the edge. I’ve had discussions with people who didn’t realize that, or used backing that was compressible, which causes the same.

 

The fan, water pump, radiator, CAC are out. It's a matter of getting in and out of there, which is why I'm pondering pulling apart the front end, like I would if I was pulling the engine.

I bought the lapping plate that you used in the video. Between my many years as a model maker, wood worker, and drywall repair-er, I am well versed in the pitfalls of sanding, and I understand the need to change-up direction. It's gonna be hard to apply the same pressure to the rear of the block as the front. And the front cover isn't coming off so the front of the block has it's challenges too. But it ain't the first time anyone ever did heads with the cab on. I am hoping the ringed heads will give me a little more leeway when it comes to deck prep.

 

It is easier with the rest of the front off, so you can step in, but it's not so bad hurdling the crossover, either. Just remove the hood latch; that's the worst.

Yep, you got it. Woodworkers understand the issue the most, especially if they've worked with veneers.

Doing that in-frame is going to be tough. I doubt you'll want to go to the extent I did, but at the very least, you'll have a good surface for the o-ringed heads. I've always sanded the block on a stand.

 

Not sure I have seen this : "Jack's rigid heater hose mod"

Care to share?

 

It starts in this thread. I've seen so many people have issues with this, so I changed to a different setup.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post21249900

 

Awesome, now it makes sense.

Great idea, luckily I swapped the pipe new a few years ago and it was easy peasy with the old one coming out with no effort. I am lucky I don not deal with rust like some of you.

 

There is enough rust inside my less than 3 year old pipe to tell me it's the right path. I dropped it off at the hose shop today so they could make a new one out of 304 seamless tubing. $39 out the door. Picking it up on Friday.

And just so credit is given where it is due, I am also stealing Jack's 2-piece air box cover mod. I'll be cutting it above the line, half way to the next rib. The plan is to hold the two sides together with 304 bar stock and screws and foil tape the seam.

 

Also today, I got the threaded lug welded into the intake for the delete.

 

Good progress today!

Got the new heads cleaned-up and painted:




Pulled the oil cooler. This is 60K miles and almost 3 years:




Pulled the HPOP. Dropped the yellow (bottom) seal into the crankcase. Wasted an hour trying to fish it out but ended up pushing it farther down. Hopefully it will drop straight into the oil pan. It will probably have lots of company; that being the bits of glow plug harness that weren't retrieved.




Pulled the right head:










Cross hatching still looks good after 296K miles:

 

I would pull the engine out, you can do it within a day and all the work required is much easier and better to do on an engine stand (including closing the holes in the block deck). If the block deck shows surfaces like the ones in these pictures after the first cleaning, these surfaces are difficult to improve when motor installed, the room is simply too narrow.
In my opinion it is also much easier if the engine can be rotated so that the block deck surface is horizontal.

Do you also renew the lifters?

Which delete set are you planning?

also check the ports on the new heads. I have often discovered chips and machining residues there.

 

I would also pull the engine to install the heads, even without lapping the block. It's easier to fasten down the heads in a controlled manner.

But I get that is more work, especially when you use the truck for your business.

 

Of course it's easier to pull the engine if your business is rebuilding engines. I would like nothing more than to do a complete rebuild, but I don't have the time, money, or equipment for that. Not to mention I have already exceeded my experience level, so it would take five times longer. And I would need more time to build an engine stand that I don't have.

Only the front lifters are getting replaced.

This is the plan for the delete, though I have brass fittings on order since finding out about the corrosion between stainless and aluminum. And besides, the barb needs to be removeable or the fitting wouldn't have enough clearance with the sidewall of the intake to thread on.




Thank you Hartwig for reiterating the need to clean the valve ports. I have seen your video. I went though one head yesterday before painting, and decided to go over it again after painting, due to all the bits of paper towel that accumulated while prepping for paint. Here's my set-up (yes, the head is bolted to the plywood):








The marker cross hatches are a great idea, btw.

 

The change in texture is pretty telling without the hash marks until you get to an entirely new surface.

 

Make sure and use a high quality no maintenance "spring" clamp and not a worm drive clamp. If you must use a worm drive make sure it is a shielded clamp for silicone or you'll destroy that hose.


Of course it's easier to pull the engine if your business is rebuilding engines. I would like nothing more than to do a complete rebuild, but I don't have the time, money, or equipment for that. Not to mention I have already exceeded my experience level, so it would take five times longer. And I would need more time to build an engine stand that I don't have. - You can rent stands unless CA is different than the US.

Only the front lifters are getting replaced. - With the amount of miles that is worrisome, since the rears are generally the one that let loose.