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Make sure and use a high quality no maintenance "spring" clamp and not a worm drive clamp. If you must use a worm drive make sure it is a shielded clamp for silicone or you'll destroy that hose.
You can rent stands unless CA is different than the US.
Only the front lifters are getting replaced. - With the amount of miles that is worrisome, since the rears are generally the one that let loose.
It is what it is. I am out of time and money. If this economy didn't suck so hard I could afford to take more time off and do more. I struggled with the decision for a long time, but now that I've started the project it's not happening. I will address the rear lifters at a later date; hopefully MUCH later.
And besides, who says my old lifters are any worse than the junk that's being produced these days? Kind of a crap shoot either way, IMO.
It is a huge commitment, especially to remove the engine. I spent a few days making the rotating stand and a month finding every part I needed. I had the time and money so it wasn't a huge issue other than borrowing an old S-10 to drive around in the meantime.
As for the lifters in your truck the high miles (296k miles) is what I was referring to, as some others here also express.
At this point your mind is made up so regardless of the advice, the job is happening.
I will add that with a worm drive you have to tighten it over time, because it will eventually come loose. With a spring clamp there is NO maintenance or chance of it coming loose.
Other than the ground and fuel line mount, is there any point in keeping the engine lifting brackets that are attached to the rocker boxes. I'm afraid I'll break something if I try removing the screws, but I would like to cut them off at or below the top of the rocker box. Especially the driver side to make it easier to get into the thermostat housing.
Those screws were hard to remove on mine, but I got them out.
One of the other things I did "while I was there" with this 2003 was to change the bracket situation for the exhaust sensor. It always bugged me having it mounted to the T/S bolt.
Actually, what has really screwed me up to this day is I was doing all my Powerstroke things on my 2011 iMAC, images, and video, and I had a hard drive issue; or a software issue. So all the top-end building of the engine is screwed up, and I haven't found anyone who can correct the mess. Apple software for photos and videos is not like Windows. I had 1.6TB of files; I now have 0.6 TB.
So worked on my 2017 iMac post-install and tried to recover what I could, and another hard drive issue screwed the iMovie projects up. Notice the blank segments.
And then the destruction at the farm from the kids, me falling down the stairs, and Leslie's two emergency surgeries, I'm not paying much attention to 6.0L things.
I admire you for getting this done. I often wondered if it could be done in the truck. You never see many videos on doing heads with the engine in the truck.
Srmastertech has done a pretty good job with his video series, though they don't show any block or head prep, and he removes the evaporator and entire air box. He also doesn't mess with the motor mounts or tilt the engine.
I have only taken the right head off, but there is a surprising amount of room. And removing the fan, water pump, and radiator allows you to stand right in front of the engine. After I take the front cover off it should be completely doable. Worst part will be the lower rear corner of the driver side, where it is very close to the firewall. There are two options for dealing with that: tilting the engine and/or putting a big dent in the firewall with a BFH.
