No FICM sync
No FICM sync
I'm making a new thread since my previous was more related to concerns over the high pressure oil system.
I had another crank/no start today. In looking at FORScan, all is good except there is no FICM sync. Working to troubleshoot now based on what I can find searching, but have a question:
I see RPMs in FORScan while cranking, though they are inconsistent (jumping around from the 60's to high 100's even though it is a steady crank). I do NOT see the tach needle move at all. Does that maybe indicate I should focus on the CKP and associated wiring?
I had another crank/no start today. In looking at FORScan, all is good except there is no FICM sync. Working to troubleshoot now based on what I can find searching, but have a question:
I see RPMs in FORScan while cranking, though they are inconsistent (jumping around from the 60's to high 100's even though it is a steady crank). I do NOT see the tach needle move at all. Does that maybe indicate I should focus on the CKP and associated wiring?
A little tip on the Crankshaft Position Sensor without reading the .pdf. Disconnect the batteries, remove the nut holding the negative cables. Remove the starter cables from starter and pull through the front of the frame. out of the way. For me this was the hard part, disconnecting the wiring front the sensor, IDK why it kicked my tail. 8mm bolt holds the sensor in, remove and reinstall in reverse order.
1st time I did it was in an Autozone parking lot in Southern AZ, my stomach got sunburned
1st time I did it was in an Autozone parking lot in Southern AZ, my stomach got sunburned

Thanks guys. I wiggled the connections on the sensors to make sure they were secure and also disconnected/reconnected the associated connector on the PCM, and it started. Problem is, I didn't try starting after each thing I did, so don't know what fixed it
. My bad on that.
So, looks like the sensors are fine, and either I just had a bad connection or have a chafed wire and will be doing this again
I appreciate the tips, too, for getting easier access to the crankshaft sensor if I ever do need to replace it.
. My bad on that.So, looks like the sensors are fine, and either I just had a bad connection or have a chafed wire and will be doing this again

I appreciate the tips, too, for getting easier access to the crankshaft sensor if I ever do need to replace it.
The sensor itself is more reliable than the connector. They used to sell the connector o-ring by itself, oil leakage damages the connector.
3C3Z-9C064-DA (for the o-ring IIRC)
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...ng-3c3z9c064da
Pigtail part #: WPT-359, or 3U2Z-14S411-CGC
https://prosourcediesel.com/shop/bra...ail-4ft-leads/
Just in case the need arises.
3C3Z-9C064-DA (for the o-ring IIRC)
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...ng-3c3z9c064da
Pigtail part #: WPT-359, or 3U2Z-14S411-CGC
https://prosourcediesel.com/shop/bra...ail-4ft-leads/
Just in case the need arises.
The sensor itself is more reliable than the connector. They used to sell the connector o-ring by itself, oil leakage damages the connector.
3C3Z-9C064-DA (for the o-ring IIRC)
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...ng-3c3z9c064da
Pigtail part #: WPT-359, or 3U2Z-14S411-CGC
https://prosourcediesel.com/shop/bra...ail-4ft-leads/
Just in case the need arises.
3C3Z-9C064-DA (for the o-ring IIRC)
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...ng-3c3z9c064da
Pigtail part #: WPT-359, or 3U2Z-14S411-CGC
https://prosourcediesel.com/shop/bra...ail-4ft-leads/
Just in case the need arises.
Trending Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post









