Radius Arm Bushings
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 214
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Radius Arm Bushings
Getting ready to do radius arm bushings on my 2002 RWD. I've never really worked on this type of suspension before, and it looks deceptively easy, so I was wondering what pitfalls I might encounter. To me, it's as simple as run out the bolt, wedge the arm downward, pound/press out the old, press in the new. I can easily slide under the vehicle and access everything without even jacking it up, but is it a good idea to jack up the front suspension just to release the tension, or does it not really matter? And if so, what's the best jacking point to do that? Don't want to make a more complicated job than I have to, but at the same time I don't want to create more work by missing something important.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,321
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From: North Texas
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 833
Likes: 124
From: CSRA, SC
Yep it's not all that bad to do it. I did it last year on the hottest day of the year in SC wedged under my truck against the floor in the garage with a loaner ball joint press tool. The one hang up I had was when replacing the bushing on one of the lateral arms that cross the frame under the engine, I was a little too pissy and didn't line up the bushing well enough and ran it home. It mushed the hole in the control arm slightly and I had to grind it back flat. Just be patient and it's as easy as it seems. The torque for the radius arms bolts are huge though. I have a nice long torque wrench and I still couldn't quite hit the number.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Houston, Texas
I did it back in 2021 or 2022, I'll say this:
It's the best time to do the front end (ball joints, tie rods, wheel bearings). You'll also have to resist the temptation to put a 4wd axle under there, it would be the prime time to do it. Just letting you know now so it's not a surprise later.
The bushings are deceptively easy to do, the ones that are on the rear of the radius arms will seat themselves where they need to be. You'll press them in and they'll "pop" to where they need to be. In other words, they will self-center.
Last piece of advice: DO NOT USE CHEAP bushings, if you can get the Ford ones, get them. If not, energy suspension or S&B if they make them would be a good choice. If you use eBay or Amazon specials, you'll kick yourself.
It's the best time to do the front end (ball joints, tie rods, wheel bearings). You'll also have to resist the temptation to put a 4wd axle under there, it would be the prime time to do it. Just letting you know now so it's not a surprise later.
The bushings are deceptively easy to do, the ones that are on the rear of the radius arms will seat themselves where they need to be. You'll press them in and they'll "pop" to where they need to be. In other words, they will self-center.
Last piece of advice: DO NOT USE CHEAP bushings, if you can get the Ford ones, get them. If not, energy suspension or S&B if they make them would be a good choice. If you use eBay or Amazon specials, you'll kick yourself.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2016
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Likes: 25
Oh, no temptation here. Just got done throwing a few grand of parts into my wife's Subaru - 4 struts, LCAs, 3 of 4 wheel bearings. Not to mention I don't think my body can take much more for awhile. Always nice coming back to a simple job. Though to be fair the Subaru takes all the Wisconsin winter beatings while the Excursion sits in a garage, so rust and crust isn't usually as much of an issue. On the Subaru I'm used to chiseling off deteriorated hardware while the Excursion comes apart pretty easily even though it's a lot older. I've always had good luck with Moog bushings and suspension bits.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,209
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From: SoCal
When I had the radius arm bushings replaced in my Excursion, it made a huge improvement. I always had to steering correct for the crown on the road before. On a flat surface it would track straight but with the slightest crown I had to correct or it would go wandering off. Since replacing the bushings, it's much better. The only wandering is minimal and natural caused by the twin I-beam design. Energy didn't have the polyurethane bushings for our radius arms that I could find at the time. Maybe one day I'll make the switch. I'm sure it's an improvement over rubber. I think mine were from Moog but I could be wrong.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: North Texas
A FTE'r review of poly bushings creating an unbearable squeak was enough to sway me to stay with OEM. Not a job I wanted to do twice.
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From: Oologah, OK
they stopping the sway, and thumping.
the body mounts were trashed, leaving at least a 1/2 inch of play or more
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2013
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From: SoCal
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: North Texas
post #8 https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-bushings.html
A Google search will reveal a plethora of reviews stating the same complaint. Glad to hear yours don't have the death squeak. Appears YMMV. I took what I thought was the safe bet at the time.
A Google search will reveal a plethora of reviews stating the same complaint. Glad to hear yours don't have the death squeak. Appears YMMV. I took what I thought was the safe bet at the time.
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