Hello everyone...

My volt display in the dash cig port is displaying 12.1 to 13.2 volts. Rpms don't seem to affect much. When I turn on an accessory like to A/C, I see a slight voltage drop. Sounds like the alternator going bad? I have a reman that's about 2yrs old and I'm concerned.

I read somewhere that the Bosch AL7606N, 130 amp would be a direct bolt in but I don't want to do any modifications.

After reading all the threads I'm going crosseyed. Can anyone recommend a good replacement that outputs more than the measly 110 amps that won't break the bank?

 

the MechMan is a good solid alternator,
not cheap, but it will be the last one you buy.

 

It doesn’t seem like there’s a mid price alternative. There’s a huge gap in price. The most reasonable option I found is the Bosch AL7606N. It’s a bump in Output but based on what I’ve read it requires a small modification to the mount.

what I would like is a drop in replacement with more output than the standard 110 factory unit.

The Mechman looks good but it’s pricey.

Suggestions please?

 

I went with the MechMan because of the 12k Winch up front, be that right or wrong.

 

I used Power Bast****s 220 amp alternator, direct bolt in , New American made and I have great results. I have an 03 6.8 gasser but they have applications for all Ex’s . Runs around $395 with free shipping. Sorry wasn’t able to post a link

 

that is almost the same price I paid MechMan for the 320A alternator that I bought a year ago

 

I purchased a Tucson Alternator. They don’t require a core because it is built from ground up. I had to do a little grinding and had to fabricate a small bracket for it, but it runs good.

 

Has anyone had to step up the power wire size?
it looks like the alternator wire is incorporated into the engine wire harness. Stepping up to a 0-gauge from what looks like a 6-gauge wire could be a challenge.

 

I didn’t and have had no problems but as I stated I have a 6.8. Inquired when I purchased mine and was informed that it was a direct fit plug and play Also no core because they are new. I have had it installed for over two years.

 

Last week when I had a new fuel bowl installed, I asked the shop to check the charging system. The tech noticed the positive cable on the alternator was loose and when he tried to turn the nut, part of the stud snapped off. Fortunately only a small piece broke off the length of the nut thickness, so he was able to thread on a new nut and secure the wire. They rechecked the system and it was outputting 13.6-13.7 volts. Hence the reason I was in panic and learning about alternators. I learned that it doesn't matter if you install an alternator with a higher amp rating since the system will only draw what it needs. Amps are not provided, they are drawn based upon need. I also learned that the positive from the alternator to the battery is in the engine wire harness. I see a potential problem here. If something were to draw too much current and the alternator wire overheats and burns, the engine wire harness is toast too. If I were to install a higher capacity alternator, it would be smart to run a dedicated power wire directly to the battery.

That is why any accessory added to the truck should be wired directly to a relay, with power directly from the battery as to bypass the lead routed through said harness. My Alpine PDX-V9 (RMS Power Handling @ 4 Ohms: 100 - 500 Watts) is wired and fused directly to the battery. The HID headlights are set up this way too.The only other accessory is the Rigid driving lights using the factory fog light connection. The Rigid driving lights are LED so they're not drawing as much current as the original halogen bulbs so I'm confident there's no risk there. The only other accessory that I can see adding will be three gauges for trans temp, EGT, and fuel pressure. Current draw for their operation should be insignificant.

So my question now is, do I need a new alternator. I parked the Excursion on Thurs and after jumping in today saw 12.5 volts. After the glow plugs shut down and going for a short 10 mile drive, the voltage appeared stable at 13.9-14VDC. Is 13.9-14VDC in the range of a healthy system?

 

12.V while glow plugs are on is fine, 13.9 to 14.0 is good when running.

 

agree
it will fine

 

June 16
Thank you gentlemen for the confirmation. I’ve only driven it a couple times, maybe 25 total miles. Something I noticed today is she seems to run a bit smoother and definitely better acceleration response.
I hope to log a few miles in the coming days.

UPDATE-June 17:::
Put. a few more miles on her today and the voltage remains consistent with what I found yesterday.During the initial glow plug warm up I saw 12 volts. After the glow plugs completed their draw the voltage jumped to 14.1 then settled with a consistent 13.8-14.0 volts. These little volt gauges with USB power plugs are great little tools that provide essential information about the health of the electrical system. The volt meter in the instrument cluster might as well be an idiot light for how good it is. lol

 

Update:::
I drove about 25 miles round trip today and the voltage stayed at 14.1 volts. It may have fluctuated .1, I don't know. Gotta keep eyes on the road, not fixated on a gauge. so a new alternator is on the list of will need in the near future but not necessarily today. lol I will add that the Mechman looks like the best deal at the lowest price for a top quality alternator..
Thank you guys for all the educational info.

 

This is a valuable example of what basically equates to a LAW in mechanics: Check those MF connections before doing anything else!!!! I am not ashamed to admit that I learned this lesson in my teens by replacing my starter to find out that the battery connections were loose.