When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Most of everything you're describing is pretty normal, except the exhaust temps and possibly the knock. It's likely to run rough for at least the first 50 miles up to 100 before the air has managed to work itself out of the hpo system.
When you have a chance grab a recording of the knock and load it here or youtube or whatever works. We might get an idea of it's source and if it's serious. If you are concerned there might be bigger issues going on you might want to hold off on the valve covers and do a compression test. Oh and you might have a look at the pushrods and rockers on the side that's knocking.
I sucked it up, put everything back together and took her for a drive on a 55mph highway close to the house and did a couple little laps. Boy was it embarrassing at first, so much white smoke and I was very uneasy about how rough the truck was running. I tried to keep the rpm’s up for a while and the first time I got off the highway I could immediately hear injector noise coming to a stop that I know is what it’s supposed to sound like, crisp injector “clatter” with no skips in the firing. It started driving much much better. Eventually the white smoke was no longer there. I took a 50 minute or so drive, got a little bit of everything in as far as driving type, and I drove it on the hard side. Much much less shaking although there’s still some but maybe closer to normal? I also changed the oil and took a sample before firing up the truck with the new injectors. Regarding exhaust manifold temps, after that first drive they are all pretty close to eachother, ~20 degrees with the rear being hotter usually I think.
I actually used an old Diesel Rx brand glow plug I found in a donor motor and made a pretty good soldering iron out of it. Uses an ATX power supply salvaged from an old Dell PC. The 5v rail is just right for soldering temp, and it can run on 5v pretty much 24/7 without hurting the plug.
LOL tell me you are out in the sticks w/o telling me you are out in the sticks!
Originally Posted by Michael Gregory
Clip #2 of idling after around 50 minutes of driving mixed highway and city traffic.
That sounds pretty good to me given the drive cycle stated. If you want to pursue it I'd think maybe some air in fuel.
LOL tell me you are out in the sticks w/o telling me you are out in the sticks!
Dude I've lost count of how many soldering irons I've tried or killed over the last 5 years. I've tried cheapo's, and not so cheapo's. I've tried butane, corded, power stations, and even a battery powered Weller POS and they all fell short in one way or another. I'll take my home built ghetto fabulous Powerstroke soldering iron hands down every time. Plus now I can make custom tips for welding plastic in minutes for pennies.
That sounds pretty good to me given the drive cycle stated. If you want to pursue it I'd think maybe some air in fuel.[/QUOTE]
That sounds like a good possibility. I started the truck yesterday and let it run a bit to mainly make sure my batteries held a charge after and I don’t know if my ears were clogged but I believe it sounded even better (less knock intensity) with a smooth and shake free idle. Even high idle was smooth and it started to shake pretty good @1,000 rpm before and smoothed out over 1,200. Now it’s smooth from 500 to 2,900.
I took a video for my own reference and I think I can hear some fuel knock still but it sounds like how I’ve wanted it to since I bought it, like a school bus.
I did a data log on Friday on my post injector, drive it like you hate it drive and saw icp 2,800-2,900 so I’m hoping that points to the oil side functioning well enough. Air in the fuel is my next diagnostic goal, might call around and see if anyone has the parts ready for pressure testing that could let me pay to rent in the parking lot.
I’m also curious if the hutch mod could cure the rest of my currents woes so I can move on to dropping the truck at the transmission shop $$$
All you need for fuel pressure test is some 5/16 hose, a 100# gauge, a hose barb the fits the hose and gauge, and a couple clamps. Put the hose on the bowl drain valve with a clamp. Then gauge and barb on the other end with a clamp and open the valve. To check for airm before putting the gauge on the hose put it a clear jug and cycle the key. Any bubbles show up in the jug then you sucking air somewhere.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.