Ok, so my truck is the early '04 with the early '03 motor (ICP under turbo). It's been having issues with running decent until it is warm (above 125 EOT). I replaced the ICP sensor once, and it is currently unplugged because it would not start plugged in. It runs the same with it unplugged as it did before I unplugged it, with very poor throttle response until warm. I have been doing a LOT of reading, and I finally have a little time that I'm going to be able to work on the truck.

From what I've read, it is my understanding that leaky o-rings on the injectors can cause a low ICP reading. My truck seems to be making a little oil, so I'm pretty sure I have a bad o-ring. I bought the o-ring kits from ford several months ago, and never tried it because I thought at the time that it was a different problem. It might still be something else, but I'm going to try the o-rings.

My question is what exactly do I need in the way of special tools to be able to do the o-rings? Is it a torx 40 or 45? Do I need the allen wrench tool? I haven't been able to fiqure out what I need, and I don't want to tear the truck apart and leave it for days, I intend to get it done start to finish. Do I need new valve cover gaskets, or can they be reused like the gaskets on the 7.3? I've pulled valve covers on a couple 7.3's to change out glow plugs. Is this one much harder to do?

Also, on a different note, on my sgII I've been watching my VGT, and it never reads above 60-62, is this normal? I've seen people talking about 80-85 when idling, and mine does not do that. Thanks

Dwayne

 

If your truck does not start with the ICP plugged in, but it does start with it unplugged, then the ICP is likely to be bad again or it is a bad connector/wiring.

Did you also replace the connector when you replaced the ICP previously?

Also, have you looked at your FICM voltages? Are your batteries healthy (individually load tested)?

 

Ford Inject Oring Kits dont have the Top Oring for the HPO Rail

If your Making Oil then the Injector Fuel Rail oring are leaking this will cause a Ton of Drivability problems till warm


Just so you know the Aliant power oring have ALL INject orings including the top one

 

Well, I changed the oil today. The oil level looked unchanged from 2 weeks ago. It did not smell like diesel, so maybe I'm not making oil. I thought the oil level looked high when I checked it before. I bought torx bit sockets, including long torx sockets for the injector hold downs. I haven't bought allen wrench/hex bit sockets. I'm guessing that I don't need those, because that is the standpipes and dummy plugs on the newer motors?? Also I'm still not sure if I can reuse the valve cover gaskets.

I did do the blue spring upgrade today. At first it sounded a little better idling, but does not run any better than it did before. If anything, it seems to stumble a little more than it did before doing the spring.

I was thinking that it could be the o-rings on the injectors/copper crush washer from reading. I can't remember where I was reading about it. I was under the impression that when a copper crush washer goes bad it will start causing the problems I'm having. (rough running till warm above 125 EOT, lots of smoke until warm). Is this not true, or will it only be true if the top o-ring is bad? Also, my fuel mileage went from around 16 mpg when I bought it 4 months ago, to about 10 mpg currently. I had read that this could also be a sign of bad o-rings.

The ICP I replaced maybe 2 months ago, and lasted for about a month. I have not bought a new pigtail, as the local ford dealer wasn't even able to find the part I needed, and I haven't gotten one ordered online. I'm going to try replacing the pigtail before I replace the dang sensor again. The truck starts fine with it unplugged, and runs the same as it did with the sensor working and plugged in.

Dwayne

 

Yes you can reuse Valve cover Gaskets

If the Copper washer on the injector had problems Normaly Burned up you would have Problems ALL The Time Cold and Hot and may Not run from pushing so much compression into the fuel rails

The Fuel Rail Orings are the 2 Oring in the middle the injectors

When Mine went It ran rough wouldnt shift right Had Fuel In Oil and smelled Like diesel fuel

I could smell it But what really was the deal breaker was My Oil Leval I watched it like a Hawk for 3 weeks and it kept making its way up to the Silver part the dipstick I didnt know at first so I drained some oil thinking I might have over filled it got it back to Black part dipstick drove a couple weeks checking often and shure enough in 2-3 weeks Oil Leval was BACK UP on the SILVER Part again then I knew

Have to watch it like a Hawk and do it the same each Time as in Let the truck Sit a couple hours before checking Oil Leval


You sound like you have a FICM Problem

Going to need a ScanGaugeII or DashBoss or AE Ford Enhanced

 

I have had the sgII for a couple months looking to figure out what is going on. All the voltages are right on the money with what they should be. My batteries are 2 months old, and test good. The alternator is putting out the correct voltage and always charges the batteries back up. The FICM has never once dropped lower than 47.5, logic power and voltage the same as the batteries. I was hoping that changing o-rings would be able to fix the issues. Like I said, I thought my oil level was rising, however when I changed it today, it was not any higher than it was a couple of weeks ago. I don't know, I guess maybe I'll have to take it somewhere and have it checked out and see if I have bad injectors.

Dwayne

 

I SEE Well then Lets put hte SGII to Work

Post these sensor values

ICP
ICPV
IPR%

I assume you have a HPO Problem so start with these^^^^

OPERATING VALUES
Just make shure the numbers are taken exactly like this
Truck in PARK OR NEUTRAL all times during test
ECT at 190* or close to And EOT at 185* or higher
A/C OFF
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
#1-------KOEO=Key On Engine Off =record EACH sensor value and POST IT!!
#2-------Low Idel (truck idel on its own)=record EACH sensor value and POST IT!!
#3-------High Idel (2500RPM)=record EACH sensor value and POST IT!!
ALL^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Taken in Park or Nuetral


So Im looking for 3 Values per EACH Sensor Done Like this^^^^


I Assume a HPO Problem since thats what you messed with for it to Start



Also tell us about the Oil Filter & CAP
OTH STYLE OIL FILTER CAPS YOU WANT THE ONE ON THE LEFT SIDE ITS OEM
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11094677

 

FICM MP AT 47.5 volts is great However dont mean its 100% Good

But lets say its GOOD For Now and move on to the HPO and Other diagnostic

Get the info above post and will go from there

 

BTW if and when you do the O-rings make sure that you get a brush
to clean the cups out and also clean the bolt holes of all oil and then
blow them out with compressed air to make sure that they are dry.
Put fresh engine oil on the O-rings before you install then on the injector and
also maker sure that they still have oil on then when you put then in the head.
Dry O-rings stick and can be damaged. Then they leak.

Sean