Most of the parts are acquired now, just waiting on some of those injector seals for the pig tails to come in on Thursday. That’ll be the only thing that holds me up since the old ones got trashed assuming the new harness would have them. Well I was wrong as these Alliant power harnesses do not have them. FF claimed they don’t do much, I don’t want to take the valve covers on and off if I don’t have to, so I’m putting them on.. my thinking is they put them there for a reason?

If anyone knows the torque specs for the oil spouts, injectors, and valve cover bolts from memory, I’m all ears, if not all good, I can search the forums and internet when I get there.

50 cent mod worth doing with new parts or no?

 

This thread is a textbook example of the collective institutional knowledge of these engines as well as the collective good will of the members to help a fellow 7.3er out.

 

I do not know the torques but many times you can find stuff like that in the Tech Folder that’s a sticky thread at the top of our sub-forum. Normally what I’ll do is open the Tech Folder then do a search for a key word to help me find it. I quickly peeked in these 2 links within the folder but didn’t see what you’re looking for, possibly overlooked. Just sharing for your future reference.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ch-folder.html



I believe the injector hold downs are 120 inch-pounds. Please wait for someone else to give you the real value though. The reason I mention it at all is to highlight the INCH aspect. Most Foot-pound torque wrenches are going to start too high as you don’t want to use the ends off the limits on those. You’re best off to get an inch-pound torque wrench.

I’m pretty sure any new harness doesn’t need the 50 cent mod due to a design change.

 

According to the first highlighted link Jason posted , the oil deflectors are 9 lb/ft, and the valve cover bolt are 98 lb/in.

 

So this morning I started working again and got the glow plugs out, planning to stop by ford and get new ones just in case they aren’t oem, they say germany on them? I got the drivers side injectors in and torqued down with relative ease, waiting to torque the oil deflectors as I don’t have the size needed on a socket.

im stuck on what I believe is #7, back injector on the passenger side. I got it in but the hold down collar is not allowing the hold down bolt that you don’t touch to slide into its place… really scratching my head here.

 

Deleted, got the washer out

 

I wouldn't get too hung up on torque spec for the deflectors. I've lost count how many times I've pulled and installed injectors and never once have I put a torque wrench on those bolts. Same goes for the valve cover bolts. Tight but not stupid tight is what I usually shoot for on that kind of thing.

 

noted. I got all the injectors in. Turned the truck over a bit by hand and jumped the starter for a couple seconds until the batteries died with glow plugs out. I went to ford and got new glow plugs as well because mine weren’t motorcraft to my knowledge. Fingers crossed I can get some juice to it and ensure the cylinders are clear and then I should be able to button most of it up tomorrow after work and try for a start

 

Did the glow plugs you removed also say "Beru" on them? The German ones should be OEM. I think there are some Beru/Ireland ones that are fine as well. ZD-11's? If they measure 0.5ohms or so resistance, they are still good.

 

Half and ohm, damn that's pulling some juice. Let's see 12.6/.5=25.2 amps, yeah that's right in the ballpark. 25.2*8=201.6, that's why these rigs need 2 big honkin batteries to start on cold mornings. I actually used an old Diesel Rx brand glow plug I found in a donor motor and made a pretty good soldering iron out of it. Uses an ATX power supply salvaged from an old Dell PC. The 5v rail is just right for soldering temp, and it can run on 5v pretty much 24/7 without hurting the plug. Made another powered off a 3s 18650 battery pack. That dude is borderline dangerous, I recommend adult supervision If you're bring that guy out to work. It hits soldering temp in about 3 seconds, no on/off switch on that beast it gets a momentary switch so you don't melt whatever it is you're supposed to be fixing, or your house.

 

they say “BERU GERMANY 0 100 226 138 39v 11v”
they do not say zd on them anywhere.
The new motor craft plugs have “ZD30 E2510061144 2346 11v”
It was another $200 darned dollars going into this turd but I just want to know what the truck has is correct on what I touch. I’m sure there’s plenty more that I could be dive into but while under the valve covers, it feels wise to have essentially everything replaced with new oem parts (besides the injectors being remans). Now I’m sort of hoping I get rained out today and get the truck put back together.

 

The BERU's are good quality plugs. It they still look good and resistance tests an ohm or less I'd hang on to them. Who knows you might need a new soldering iron someday. Same goes for any wiring connectors or sensors. Unless they are obviously shot I'd hang on to what you can for spares. You never know.

 

Big update. It wasn’t the morning/afternoon I was hoping for. I got all of the new glow plugs installed, under valve cover harness hooked back up to everything, put the valve covers back on and started dealing with dead batteries. After getting a charger from hobofreight and a neighbor helping with his CTD with jumpers and we eventually got it to start up. Compression cranking sounded good and even. Upon start I got the expected cloud of white smoke and the engine STILL shakes and sounds like it’s knocking on the passenger side still.
I let it idle a while while inspecting everything. Not sure yet, but found a substantial new oil leak that appeared the be below the turbo but I’m wondering if that was just the remaining oil that went through the system because shortly after noticing that new dripping puddle below my transmission, my neighbor yelled to turn off the truck while he was smelling the exhaust smoke. There was a puddle of oil and it was dripping out of the tailpipe. All that being said, I’m hoping with everything I’ve got that all the new oil leaks/oil in exhaust are from oil going through the turbo and then exhaust.

i shot the exhaust manifolds with my laser gun and there’s almost a 100 degree difference between the drivers and passenger side bank, with the passenger side being cooler. When I shot the temps the drivers side was ~240 and the passenger side ~140 with the rear most being around 160. I have not driven it yet and would need to install the air intake and inter cooler pipes and also this has beat me down and not provided much confidence.

I ran a cylinder contribution test while it was still running and it failed #3

When I scan for trouble codes I get
P0381 glow plug lamp circuit
P0475 exhaust pressure control valve malfunction
P1212 injector control pressure lower than desired

checked the oil while it was running as well and no bubbles were on the dipstick.

 

Most of everything you're describing is pretty normal, except the exhaust temps and possibly the knock. It's likely to run rough for at least the first 50 miles up to 100 before the air has managed to work itself out of the hpo system.

When you have a chance grab a recording of the knock and load it here or youtube or whatever works. We might get an idea of it's source and if it's serious. If you are concerned there might be bigger issues going on you might want to hold off on the valve covers and do a compression test. Oh and you might have a look at the pushrods and rockers on the side that's knocking.

 

I have to shorten and split up the clip to post
still sounds like a knocking happening on the passenger side.