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Wow guys thanks for that digging to find the pin map! I ordered a can of the cleaner that was suggested off Amazon. I should also have a fluid extractor syringe coming in today, just out of fear I didn’t get everything I wanted to double check with it. (Assuming the rings are sealed enough to not have let everything seep through by now about 24 hours later)
I drove out to Murfreesboro after I finished up working today and dropped my injectors off at full force. Now just to play the waiting game and clean electrical connections in the meantime. Fingers crossed I could have injectors back in by the end of next week before I take a week long trip. (In the wife’s car, not the problem truck)
Just used an extractor to try and get any remaining fluid out of the cylinders. I started on the passenger side and sucked out each cylinder with the syringe and all had about the same amount left in them which wasn’t hardly any. Maybe a tablespoon or so. Then I did the drivers side and all were the same as the passengers side except #8, there was quite a bit of dark oil compared to what seemed like maybe a oil/fuel mix in the rest. I pumped everything out until the suction couldn’t get anymore like the rest of them and temporarily put the covers back on. Felt good until I took a look at the oil that I extracted with a flashlight. Looks like some glitter that I don’t want to see, along with sand and other debris from the road. I’m not sure how I should feel but I’m definitely not feeling great/confident now. I don’t know if it’s residual, new, another crap engine, break in material, or what. Obviously it’s just concerning to see with less than 500 miles on its first run of oil after the 500 mile break in oil change and if metal had anything to do with my injectors demise, putting new ones in would suffer the same fate if this is a current problem as far as I can tell.
If that was my engine, I’d drop the oil and send some in for sampling or I’d be cutting the oil filter open to see if there are metal shavings in there.
If that was my engine, I’d drop the oil and send some in for sampling or I’d be cutting the oil filter open to see if there are metal shavings in there.
fabulous. That’s sound advice. I’m not thrilled seeing it so I’ll probably drop it over the weekend and send some next week. I don’t have any sort of oil filter cutting tool so my means of cutting would most likely introduce oil filter metal to the filter for all I know. Not cool to see when the engine is under 1,000 miles old and was replaced due to evidence of bearings in the filter.. ugh. Thank you.
If this truly is a 0 mile reman then some metal particles is to be expected. At least that the way I was taught. It's from the new wear surfaces mating to each other. Which is why oil changes are recommended at pretty close intervals in the first few thousand miles. On the small handfull of gasser engines I've built they all got an oil change after the initial start and run in. Then again at around 500 miles, and yet again at 1500-3000. Now I can't say what you're seeing is normal or not, I'd still have it tested. Just don't start nailing that coffin lid until you get your results.
If this truly is a 0 mile reman then some metal particles is to be expected. At least that the way I was taught. It's from the new wear surfaces mating to each other. Which is why oil changes are recommended at pretty close intervals in the first few thousand miles. On the small handfull of gasser engines I've built they all got an oil change after the initial start and run in. Then again at around 500 miles, and yet again at 1500-3000. Now I can't say what you're seeing is normal or not, I'd still have it tested. Just don't start nailing that coffin lid until you get your results.
I have no choice but to believe it is in fact another new reman engine, I got a video message of the crate being delivered the second time around, new engine is very clean with fresh paint marks on bolt heads etc. I was even told that the engine got an oil change after the first start up, then at 500 miles. I was told by the shop that metal was the reason for the frequent and early oil changes, I just didn’t think I’d see it I guess.
thinking back on all the oil I’ve changed in my life, I’ve seen tiny glitter before in the oil from engines that run perfectly fine but they’ve all been gas v8s. I’ve never lost sleep over it but with the oil fired injectors I’m feeling different about it now.
Update- Full force called and they have already gotten my set of injectors flow tested and inspected. Technicians notes were that 3 of my injectors are AB code injectors and 5 are AD code injectors. They said they all measure poorly and are out of spec but the mismatching alone could cause my symptoms. I asked about metal in them and they had no notes about it in regard to the injectors. They recommend a new set.
Ask if that can include flow test results for your set.
I will on Monday I think. It’s really not the worst news, I’d probably be a little more concerned if they were all perfect just because this seems to be leading me towards the finish line. They’ve got everything in stock for me between a set of ABs and oem UVCH and the valve cover gasket. So with those new parts and cleaning my 42 pin this weekend, it feels like I’m going the right direction.
Do you mean ask for the flow test results for the new set or the old set?
This may be a non-issue now, but I believe the early model 7.3L's have a different pin out for the 42 pin connector than the later model 7.3L's. From memory, which may be wrong, there were a few pins that were different between say a 2000 MY and a 2002 MY. Similar to how the 2000 has a fuse box under the hood where the 2002 does not.
If this pin out is still required after the injectors are replaced, I will see what I can dig up.
John, I agree with you that the connector itself is identical. Going from memory, I was able to find the information I was referring to and have pasted it below.
Originally Posted by Sous
This is the pinout for the 2000. For reference, the 42 pin connector is C138.
I have also attached a pinout in Excel format for a 2002.
This is the pinout for the 2002. For reference, the 42 pin connector is C110.
When searching for the a replacement 42 pin connector, it is listed as used for 1994 - 2003, so the form factor is the same at the very least. Truth be told, I had to call upon FordTruckNoob to help me identify the connector number. I was trying to find C110 in the 2000 section, but it is C138 in the 2000. I am still learning and am not afraid to ask for help or directions, which is a good thing in my opinion.
Comparing the two connectors based solely on the diagrams, there does appear to be some differences in the pinouts. Without looking at each individual circuit, for the 2000 (2002 is included in the Excel document), I cannot be certain if they are critical or not. For example, pin 1 on the 2000 is LG/RD and pin 1 on the 2002 is blank.
In my opinion, even though the form factor of the 42 pin appears to be the same, the pinout does NOT appear to be the same and caution should be used if sending the connector with wiring. If only the connector is going, then everything should be fine as long as there is no damage to the connector when pins are removed or inserted.
Perhaps the color code of the various pins and hardware on the various MY trucks is all that is different, but I don't know that for sure. Similar to the GEM vs VSM. There are differences in the MY of the trucks that must be adhered to when posting pinouts and diagrams.
I can confirm that the color codes don't always hold up from year to year throughout the entire truck. The pin mapping does stay pretty accurate with the exception of additional or deleted wires. Of course like everything Ford puts out there are always exceptions. That's one thing they are exceptionally good at. Just when you think you've seen it all you stumble across some oddball "one off" they made a handful of.
I thought the 42 pin wiring diagram is model year specific?
Technically every model year's schematics are specific to that year, but there's a lot of overlap at the same time. For the most part what I've seen from owning a redheaded stepchild E99, where nothing seems to be specific, is the mapping tends to hold up except when things were added or deleted. The color coding is a complete crap shoot though. I'd guesstimate maybe half of it matches with schematics from later models. Obviously I haven't gone through every wire or every schematic, nor did I document discrepancies when I came across them, so this is only based on what I have had to work on and whatever managed to get caught in the hamster wheel rattling away between my ears.
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fabulous. That’s sound advice. I’m not thrilled seeing it so I’ll probably drop it over the weekend and send some next week. I don’t have any sort of oil filter cutting tool so my means of cutting would most likely introduce oil filter metal to the filter for all I know. Not cool to see when the engine is under 1,000 miles old and was replaced due to evidence of bearings in the filter.. ugh. Thank you.
