Maybe a bad injector?
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Olympia, WA
Maybe a bad injector?
I've got major white/light blue smoke and a little bit of a rough idle. These injectors were just overhauled and installed. I just put in a new fuel pump and changed the oil and filter. I've got one exhaust manifold port that looks wet/oily, front one on the passenger side. VC plugs ohm out good, 3.2 or so. If I unplug the front passenger side VC harness, the smoke clears up quite a bit and it's not running a whole lot rougher. Plug it back in, and the smoke comes right back. So I'm pretty much thinking that front injector isn't working correctly, even though it ohms out ok. I just put new o-rings on it yesterday, and from the outside it looks fine, maybe something internal? Since it seems to be causing a ton of smoke, I assume it's getting a signal from the main harness and IDM, and it's getting fuel. I have 400psi compression. Not sure what to do here. Any input appreciated.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Olympia, WA
I just pulled the passenger side VC and let it idle to check the injector oil flow. Kind of hard to guage how even they were since it kind of squirts and splats out of there, but they were all moving oil and I didn't see any obvious difference between them. Maybe I'll try to drive it again, I guess air in the sytem makes sense since I pulled an injector yesterday. I'm optomistic that I'm starting to home in on the problem, since it seems to be isolated to two cylinders/injectors anyway.
Is there any way to check what's coming out of the harness upstream of the VC connection?
Is there any way to check what's coming out of the harness upstream of the VC connection?
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: MICHIGAN
If they are spitting oil they should be OK electronically but could be a bad injector IDK.
I assume you mean the UVC. The only thing I do is check for continuity. Have you checked the connections for pin damage ect. The connection under the VC has been known to come loose. There is afix for the keeper that holds the connector in place IIRC.
I assume you mean the UVC. The only thing I do is check for continuity. Have you checked the connections for pin damage ect. The connection under the VC has been known to come loose. There is afix for the keeper that holds the connector in place IIRC.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Olympia, WA
Ok, I drove it another 30 miles or so, still smoking heavy under any load and low on power. Seems a little bit smoother, maybe the IPR solonoid being tightened down mad a small improvement. In neutral I can rev it up to over 3,000 with no problem, but it doesn't have the oomph to rev very high on the road. Front cylinder on the passenger side is still dumping raw fuel and/or oil. When I disconnect the front passenger side VC harness the smoking seems to clear up, but I haven't driven it this way, just run it in the driveway. Will I hurt anything if I was to drive it while unplugged? I can't get tags for this thing until I pass an emissions test, no way I can pass with this smoking problem. I think I'm going to try switching two injectors and see if the messy exhaust manifold port moves with the injector. Is there any way to assess the harness between the IDM and VC connector? The UVC portion ohms out good, but I have no idea what's upstream of it. Does pumping oil imply that the IDM and wiring harness are good?
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
Yes pumping oil does say that the electrical portion is good. So it very well could be that injector is leaking fuel. Did you just have injector work done? seems like I remember you saying you had Jim at Rosewood do some injector work.
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Elder User
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From: Olympia, WA
Yes, I sent all 8 to Jim for his "budget built" stage 1's. He builds them for pretty much the same price as you'd pay for the kit parts and the premachined pistons. It was a no brainer for me. I'm still going to swap two of them and hope the mess follows the injector. Then I think I've got a good case for a dud injector. What about running with one harness unplugged? Can I run on 6 cylinders without hurting anything. I would like to be able to drive the truck even with low power, I just can't deal with the smoke.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
yes you can run with one harness unplugged. Happens all the time when those conenctor burn up. I wouldn't do it for very long. Also you could pull the VC and just unplug that one injector. then you would atleast have 7 hitting. I would bet you have one bum injector.
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What if you were only running on six cylinders it still would start and run. I think that because of my gasket failure that I atleast was out two cylinders. That wouldn't have stopped me from starting would it? Sorry not trying to high jack your post, but it does pertain to the same qustion you made?
Last edited by caseydudem; Jul 9, 2007 at 01:00 PM.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Olympia, WA
Mine started right up with one of the harnesses unplugged, that's how I found a way I could reduce the smoke and narrow in on my problem. I just didn't know if that was a good idea to drive it that way. Seems ok though, like Tim said, it happens all the time when UVC harnesses and gaskets burn up.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Olympia, WA
Update. I took it in and passed my emissions test running in Cummins mode - injectors 1&3 disconnected. Low power but it runs clean on 6, I scored an 8 on the test, 40 is the limit for opacity %. Now I can get it registered and legal to drive. So now I think I may have found the smoke problem. My 1/3 harness has a new plug on it, previous owner took it to an auto electrical shop when it started to run like crap. I got to thinking I wonder if #1/3 could have their wiring crossed and I think that is the case here. According to the wiring diagram in my Chilton manual, #1 injector should get a tan wire, and #3 should get brown/yellow. Mine is backwards from that. Can anyone willing to check their front passenger side harness and let me know what colors they have on 1/3? Next question is can I just cut and splice these wires with crimp on butt connectors, or should they be soldered, or is there another way more appropriate here. Thanks in advance.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 12,835
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From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
Best way to swap would be to take the wires out of the connector and swap them. The plug should come apart and the pins come out of the holes. Not sure how its done though. If that doesn't work the best thing to use is the solder/shrink connectors. They are like the crimp kind but rather than crimp you heat them with a heat gun or small torch and the tubing is also shrink tubing so it is a weather tight splice.