I have recently purchased a KC balanced assembly and PHP Hydra chip for my early 99 F350.

I already have a TS 6 position tuner. Stock injectors, stock pretty much everything else.

Wondering what is the HP and torque performance of the KC balanced assembly in a stock GTP38 turbo vs. Stock GTP38 turbo?

My stock turbo just starts spooling up around 2000 rpms. What would the KC balanced assembly do?

 

Gonna be better that's for sure! I have a decent compressor wheel but the KC balanced assy is a solid step up.

Since you are about to embark on significant mods there are a few other things to consider.

You have to pull the turbo to rebuild it so now is the time to install bellowed up pipes. If yours are OEM they are toast.

Need an EGT gauge with serious tunes. Don't want to melt a piston. I'd recommend a fuel pressure gauge too, when performance goes sour that info will cut diagnostics in half.

I'm sure others will chime in with suggestions.

 

Oh heck yeah it is gonna be better! I can't wait.

Already have those gauges. Woo woo!

Bellowed up pipes would be a GREAT move but I have already tested the turbo system for leaks and not only is the leak test phenomenal for 170k miles but the up pipes are not leaking. Yes, I agree it is smart to not only replace them but upgrade to bellowed up pipes but I disagree because the up pipes are not leaking and I don't want to spent extra money if I don't reallllly need them. It will be a matter of time before they go back but until then I am A OK.

 

As soon as you disturb the turbocharger's position and reinstall it, you WILL end up with a leak. At 170K, the pipes are junk and if by some miracle you don't have a leak, you absolutely will after working on the turbo. Spend the money and time ONCE because when you put it back together and have a significant leak, you'll be back here saying you didn't get the results you hoped for from the different turbo pieces.

 

100% correct. The OE design was stupid and guarantied to fail. It WILL start leaking if by some miracle (it would be a solid miracle!) they aren’t leaking now.

This is not a good place to save $100.

https://swagperformanceparts.com/99-...YaAu-UEALw_wcB

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...lete-pics.html

 

I completely agree with Cleatus and SSJ. This is not where you want to try and save $100. If they’re not leaking now they will after you disturb them. I‘ve been there and done that.

Leaking uppipes rob more performance than people give them credit for. Again, know from experience. If you don’t install bellowed uppipes you’ll likely be somewhat disappointed with your new turbo. Wait and save up if needed but do this at the same time.

 

You’ll want to make sure they’re for an early 99 E99 if you do go with new up-pipes. I bought these but haven’t installed them yet—not ready for that pita although I know it needs to be done haha.

https://swagperformanceparts.com/swa...erstroke-7-3l/

 

You guys called out my cheap ******* self and convinced me to just buy the up pipes, gasket, etc. I 100% agree and I am trying to cut corners because I want to save about $150-$200. For what? For me to just have to go back in and have to get to the up pipes all over again after a few extra hours at least of headaches? No I am not about that and time is money. Bellowed up pipes also supposedly help with lowering EGTs a bit PLUS there may be a micro leak or micro leaks or a notable leak that I was not able to detect doing my boost leak pressure test. At 26 years old and 170k miles of a vehicle, the damn truck needs new up pipes!

You guys are a huge help. Sorry about my stubbornness.

 

I know e99 pipes are more expensive, but you may be able to get them cheaper than that. This is one are where you can cheap out and buy the knockoffs without much concern.

Yes, they will lower EGT by spooling the turbo more efficiently. Exhaust drive pressure leaks kill performance.

Uppipe (exhaust drive pressure) leaks can not be detected during a boost leak test. Those are separate sides of the turbo. I’m still not convinced they aren’t already leaking.

As we all have said, from our own bad experiences, the donut gaskets will not seal back up on those 26yo worn pipes after being taken off. The original pipes will be worn and somewhat crushed at the gasket area. We’re all just trying to keep you from making the same mistakes we have in the past.

 

I can’t say for the balanced assembly nor for dyno #’s.

I have been running a 5/5 wheel for 4 years and that was a huge improvement over stock.

This past winter I paired that wheel to the KC Turbine wheel and man o man am I impressed.

Just got back from a 600mile trip towing 8500lbs with mountain passes and it was a solid performer.

You will be happy.

Edit: just remember… it’s not a sports car so don’t expect one.

 

I don’t think he said Early ‘99???

Note, you will need to reuse the collector for E99. Removing the bolts can be a PITA

 

Oh I will be happy with it. This early 99 is a tow rig. Lots of steep gradients where I am at so if I don't struggle going up mountain passes at 60-65 mph towing 6-8k pounds like I am now with high EGTs then I'll be a happy camper.

 

Yep I have an early 99. I have heard about how a PITA they can be.

 

Just bought these. Thank you for the link!

 

4mile long 5% incline at 60mph with lots of pedal left to mash. 24lbs boost 1075°. Never once this last trip did I drive by the EGT gauge.

Tunes make a big difference though. My SDK tunes run cooler than the PHP files on the exact same set up.

I haven’t tried the PHP since the KC upgrade, but prior I could kiss 1300° on a freeway on-ramp.

All the upgrades I’ve done on my truck are with towing in mind. I don’t put many miles on it in a year but when I do, it’s working for its keep.