It Starts With a Flush
Cross-Country
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 94
Likes: 77
From: Hogs Hollow , Michigan
Before those delete kits were banned on e -Bay I saw them selling for 30.00 and less , but you can still get them.
https://thedieseldudes.com/products/...e1e1e696&_ss=c
https://thedieseldudes.com/products/...e1e1e696&_ss=c
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 17,483
Likes: 2,772
From: Northern Ontario
Teflon tape can ball up when you turn it backwards, and trying to find the right amount to put on to get it tight where you want it is a pita, imho. I’d use a good locktite thread sealant on fittings, you can ‘clock’ it before it sets if you need to adjust. I’ve never had a leak. Various types of sealant for various fluids and temps.
that’s my 2c.
OP: Nice job. Thanks for posting it up.
that’s my 2c.
OP: Nice job. Thanks for posting it up.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,827
Likes: 3,111
From: Jersey Shore
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 17,483
Likes: 2,772
From: Northern Ontario
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Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,827
Likes: 3,111
From: Jersey Shore
I've been using them for 4-5 decades now, and they are extremely good products. I tend only to use 567 because of its higher temperature rating, not that 565 isn't good. While they both are rated as low strength, that's somewhat of a misnomer, and 567 can be a bear to remove the fitting afterward compared to 565, as least in my experience.
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 2,370
Likes: 992
From: Chambersburg, PA
I've been using them for 4-5 decades now, and they are extremely good products. I tend only to use 567 because of its higher temperature rating, not that 565 isn't good. While they both are rated as low strength, that's somewhat of a misnomer, and 567 can be a bear to remove the fitting afterward compared to 565, as least in my experience.
@Fuzzpuss I wish I would have seen your threaded connection and fitting set up. If I ever pull the intake again that’s exactly what I’ll do. That would be a bit easier IMO than welding a fitting, though both are great fixes for that jenked up o-ring press fit and clamped connection. Since I would be the one doing the threading, I really don’t see an issue with getting the clocking really close.
Right now the black RTV and clamps are leak free. I’m sure like many others, this is one thing I’ll need to revisit.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 3,420
Likes: 934
From: Fort Worth, TX
Teflon tape can ball up when you turn it backwards, and trying to find the right amount to put on to get it tight where you want it is a pita, imho. I’d use a good locktite thread sealant on fittings, you can ‘clock’ it before it sets if you need to adjust. I’ve never had a leak. Various types of sealant for various fluids and temps.
that’s my 2c.
OP: Nice job. Thanks for posting it up.
that’s my 2c.
OP: Nice job. Thanks for posting it up.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 3,420
Likes: 934
From: Fort Worth, TX
I use the Permatex 56521 high performance thread sealant. I drain the water from my boat engine every year via the block plugs, water jacket plugs, and heat exchanger plugs. Never an issue, and can get them out and cleaned up every year.
@Fuzzpuss I wish I would have seen your threaded connection and fitting set up. If I ever pull the intake again that’s exactly what I’ll do. That would be a bit easier IMO than welding a fitting...
@Fuzzpuss I wish I would have seen your threaded connection and fitting set up. If I ever pull the intake again that’s exactly what I’ll do. That would be a bit easier IMO than welding a fitting...
I've revisited this many times already between the two 6.0's I have owned. IPR delete, welded stock cooler, Dieselsite delete; all leaked at or near the intake connection. Now I have the re-route which only leaked because the hose rubbed a hole against the up-pipe, but it still leaked!
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 2,370
Likes: 992
From: Chambersburg, PA
So far so good no new leaks. Turbo builds boost faster with the KC balanced kit than with the oem wheels. This is great with the standard trans. I’m happy that there is a real performance increase, and not just extra noise for no other gain. Second tank of fuel after the flush and I’m getting 16.89 mpg. My average prior was right at 14 mpg, ( I log my fuel with every tank….geeky that way I guess).
I have always run the Edge CTS2 economy tune. The FICM with the Atlas 40 upgrade, EGR, and/ or KC wheel are contributing to this 2+ mpg increase.
I’ll post back after another couple tanks, but so far I’m very pleased.
I have always run the Edge CTS2 economy tune. The FICM with the Atlas 40 upgrade, EGR, and/ or KC wheel are contributing to this 2+ mpg increase.
I’ll post back after another couple tanks, but so far I’m very pleased.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 3,420
Likes: 934
From: Fort Worth, TX
Second tank of fuel after the flush and I’m getting 16.89 mpg. My average prior was right at 14 mpg, ( I log my fuel with every tank….geeky that way I guess).
I have always run the Edge CTS2 economy tune. The FICM with the Atlas 40 upgrade, EGR, and/ or KC wheel are contributing to this 2+ mpg increase.
I’ll post back after another couple tanks, but so far I’m very pleased.
I have always run the Edge CTS2 economy tune. The FICM with the Atlas 40 upgrade, EGR, and/ or KC wheel are contributing to this 2+ mpg increase.
I’ll post back after another couple tanks, but so far I’m very pleased.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 3,420
Likes: 934
From: Fort Worth, TX
The stainless bolts you used; were they standard 18-8 flange head bolts, or were you able to find high strength bolts in metric sizes somewhere other than McMaster? And what length did you get?