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I was able to get it with a ratchet, but had to have the perfect extension length. I have seen a couple guys on YouTube use that exact wrench.
Is there a consensus from the group on putting in that rear bolt when putting this back together. I have seen some guys put it in, other leave it out. Me, I try to put things back together as they were. Any thoughts from the group?
I'd be afraid the leverage of the exhaust could break the bolt flanges myself. I vote for all 3.
I wasted most of a day getting the rear bolt out of my last 03. Ended up cutting the handle short on a ratchet to get in there. Since then I've always used anti-seize and haven't had a problem with them being too loose or tight.
I called to ask if spacers were needed because none are shown on the product page. They said spacers are still needed but they don't offer any made of titanium. Seems smarter to use titanium spacers so the thermal coefficients are the same. So now I'm considering making spacers from titanium rod:
Great conversation guys. I’m with the majority that will twist up like a pretzel to get all the bolts back in as they should be.
So far in the dismantle I found the CV tube had a hole in it which explains the oil everywhere on the drivers side valve cover. I found one intake bolt on the drivers side backed out about 1/4”. I also found one bolt missing and another backed out on the turbo pedestal. The missing bolt is nowhere to be found and the threaded hole in the block was hard to find because it was covered in dirt/ grime. Some of the heat shielding is also loose in front of the up pipes.
I’ve owned the truck since 2008, and to my knowledge the only thing that was ever completed was a turbo cleaning before I bought it. Aside from a warranty FICM, the only hands on this motor are mine. Perhaps there was more done to this truck than I was lead to believe…..or the motor was assembled on a Friday.
On a side note, I found a great use for the few dozen mismatched socks that seem to accumulate in a bag beside the dryer……lol.
I was able to get it with a ratchet, but had to have the perfect extension length. I have seen a couple guys on YouTube use that exact wrench.
Is there a consensus from the group on putting in that rear bolt when putting this back together. I have seen some guys put it in, other leave it out. Me, I try to put things back together as they were. Any thoughts from the group?
I'm pretty sure I used a standard short 3/8" socket with a 6" extension and ratchet to break mine loose. Then I hit with the Milkwaukee 3/8" M12 battery ratchet to back it out. Worth it's weight in gold!
Similar setup for the up-pipe clamp as you have to come around from the backside with terrible clearance.
I'm pretty sure I used a standard short 3/8" socket with a 6" extension and ratchet to break mine loose. Then I hit with the Milkwaukee 3/8" M12 battery ratchet to back it out. Worth it's weight in gold!
Similar setup for the up-pipe clamp as you have to come around from the backside with terrible clearance.
yeah that M12 ratchet is really nice. I have the Dewalt 20v ratchet, but it won’t get into all the places the M12 will, and the Dewalt is heavier. Especially with the larger batteries.
Did it happen to be the rear one that the engine harness ground attaches to?
Actually it wasn’t. It was one right smack dab in the middle. Though to your point, the engine harness ground was not hooked up. That was probably my fault that it wasn’t hooked up. A few years back I did the IPR due to hot no start issues. There is an aluminum heat shield that uses that same stud. My guess is I completely missed it when putting everything back together. Thats a tight space to work in. It didn’t seem to cause any issues not being hooked up as far as I know.
Got the up pipes off tonight. What a pain in the ars. When I replaced the clutch in the tranny I thought I saw some soot around the passenger side bellow. I was partially correct, looks like they were both cracked.
Does anyone think there’s any need to heat wrap the new-ish up pipes I’m putting on? Any benefit?
