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Turbo installed. This is the turbo I pulled out of the junk yard and rebuilt with a balanced wheel kit from KC Turbo. I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention @Jokester00 for sending me a used plunger for this unit. The up-pipes and down-pipes slid right into position.
Back together and running. No leaks that I can see as of now. Only took a few key turns until it started trying to start. Maybe 15 seconds of cranking altogether. When I was putting it back together, I filled the oil cooler and cavity which helped tremendously. The new KC balanced wheel sounds amazing.
The only thing I have left is to figure out the CCV routing. I am going to attempt to put in the space under the power steering reservoir. I’m going to get a formed radiator hose that has some bends I can use to get it under my intake duct then it should be easy gettting it up front with AN12 hose and fittings. We shall see……
Kinda surprising to see trucks that still have the plastic CAC pipe.
Looking forward to the CCV filter mount.
As hard as that plastic tube was to break loose, I can’t imagine it popping off. The bellows are still pretty pliable, so didn’t really see a need to change yet.
I didn’t have many options for a tank with AN12 fittings. AN10 fitted tanks the options were almost endless. The tank I bought has a drain valve on the bottom, but it’s pretty big at over 2L capacity. I’ll update this as I get it figured out.
Getting the CCV tank figured out. Took a little head scratching to come up with a suitable bracket. There is plenty of room behind the bumper, but not many mounting options. Below is what I came up with for my particular tank.
Also had to get the stock intake tube and CCV box fitting from 1” to the AN12 hose. Did this with a 1” to 3/4” barbed plastic fitting and a random radiator hose I picked off the rack at AutoZone.
Getting the CCV tank figured out. Took a little head scratching to come up with a suitable bracket. There is plenty of room behind the bumper, but not many mounting options. Below is what I came up with for my particular tank.
Also had to get the stock intake tube and CCV box fitting from 1” to the AN12 hose. Did this with a 1” to 3/4” barbed plastic fitting and a random radiator hose I picked off the rack at AutoZone.
So the long run of hose is 3/4"?
EDIT - even on a hose that is open under the frame, I highly suggest a 1" hose!
Yes the long run is the AN12 hose, but since I’m not going to the frame the run is about 4’ to 5’ give or take.
Got the entire system installed and plumbed. The tube from the CCV port goes to the lower AN12 connector. The catch can has a baffle in the center of it. The return to the intake is on the upper fitting of the can. The drain will be easy to get to with where this is installed.
I thought about using the filter that came with this catch can and making this vent to atmosphere. In the end, like others here I conversed with, a push/ pull closed system is probably more efficient at keeping crank case pressures under control.
Altogether this CCV catch can setup cost me a little less than $200.00.
Welp, as an update, the blue press on hose for my EGR tube thingy started leaking. I found I had pinched 2 o-rings on assembly.
Not able to locate these particular o-rings locally, I tried using some black ones that looked the same size. Those leaked worse. I decided to break out the clamp on hose and assembled with no leaks. That’ll be my fix for now. I think part of my issue was that the EGR j-tube thingy didn’t seem to line up perfectly with the oil cooler outlet.
Welp, as an update, the blue press on hose for my EGR tube thingy started leaking. I found I had pinched 2 o-rings on assembly.
Not able to locate these particular o-rings locally, I tried using some black ones that looked the same size. Those leaked worse. I decided to break out the clamp on hose and assembled with no leaks. That’ll be my fix for now. I think part of my issue was that the EGR j-tube thingy didn’t seem to line up perfectly with the oil cooler outlet.
I really am not sure who made it. I found it on a 2006 I was getting parts off of in a junk yard. My original thought was to retrieve a used EGR cooler from this truck and weld the ends shut. Once I pulled the turbo I saw that this one was deleted with the J-pipe, so I snagged it and changed strategy. It didn’t have any markings of any kind on it anywhere. It is stainless, so decent quality I’m guessing.
Thanks , will make sure I never use the oem hose on a egr delete J - pipe .
I wouldn't be opposed to trying it again. I just ran out of time and patience. I did use a little black RTV on the inside of the clamp on hose. I do this same thing every year on my boat when I hook the water pump and heat exchanger hoses back up. After years and years of draining the water and using the same hoses in the spring I’ve never had a leak. I imagine this will be the same case.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
