Since I have the bottom rubber seals I bought on Ebay I think I'll start with those. The window channels are still useable. Eventually I'm probably going to replace the driver's side door. When I do that I'll redo both doors window channels and if I don't like the bottom seals I have replace those again. I think Dennis Carpenter is a good bet. I've been happy with other stuff I got from them.

Can you give me an estimate of how much time I can expect to do just the bottom seals? Can I do one door in a day? The truck is my daily driver now so I'm trying to plan ahead for down time. Everyone says take your time and it will come out good...but I want to move forward as quick as possible while still taking care.

 

I don't know the times involved because I had mine blown apart already for a complete repaint over the course of 2 months.
If you are just talking the out lower door belt strip, I think you can just lower the window and with a strong putty knife get the old one out. If the window doesnt drop down far enoughh to making access easy, remove inner door panel and loosen the wing window vertical bar which should get you enough room to remove regulator from the glass and lower it to the bottom of door.

Knowing how it all works together, I could do this in probably less than an hour per door, but going in new you might spend 2 or 3 hours on the first one and 1/2 that on the second one.

I would think 4 or 5 hrs would be more than sufficient if you were going in blind for the outer lowers.

The window track felt would not add that much more time because you are already there.
The interior window lower with the staples/rivets could also be done with less than 1 hr per door if already off.

Now, the wing window rubber is more challenging to get right . There is a small channel that interlocks with the rubber and because of the shape of it needs to be slid while installing it initially. This piece would likely take you 3 or 4 hrs once removed from the door. I spent 2 hrs trying my first one and had the second done in 30 or 40 minutes.

Everything at one time I would guess that you are looking at 8 or 10 hrs depending on the learning curve involved.
Also no better time to clean, lube and refresh wear components while it is apart.

Alot of people settle on "old trucks have loose sloppy and noisy features" but they weren't that way new. Take the extra time and a few extra bucks to refresh everything and you will be pleasantly surprised with the results.

 

There's a good video that runs through replacing the window channel runs and "anti-rattler" parts.


For the channel runs -- here's the difference between Carpenter / BroncoGY (left) and OEM (right) that caused me to start this thread.



The "wings" in the red squares are what I was referring to in the original post (second picture). They result in the rubber flap you see around the window frame, and made things difficult to install cleanly in the corners. Maybe you're supposed to tuck them in or something, but I couldn't get that to work. That said -- you can probably trim the wings off with a knife if needed, because that's exactly what the Carpenter pieces do in the spot where the channel meets the other seals at the rear of the door.



Carpenter shows the notch in the picture on the website. The BroncoGY parts I bought don't have this notch.

 

I bought mine from Dennis Carpenter and it does have the notch as you show. It is to relieve the excess material where it all comes together.
I have a 1993 which the factory installed this notch in glass run to the outside, a 1995 which the factory installed notch to the outside and a 1997 HD which the factory installed notch to the inside so I would speculate that its position isn't all that important, but the factory item also had a notch so the DC item is the correct version.
And no, they don't get tucked in, they rest right on the surface. You should be able to carefully slide a fine tool under the rubber lip and lift the rubber away from the surface.
In fact, painters will often slide a thin rope under this rubber to lift it up slightly so that the new paint edge is concealed and protected under the door glass run.

I like the notch to the outside because it makes the exterior look only a little bit more refined (but really hardly noticeable) and when driving I can't even see the interior side of the intersection anyways.
(The pass/ driver door glass run is the same rubber extrusion as what is used in the Bronco rear window lower window slides).

I think that JBG and LMC have the Precision brand.
DC will call out the items that they make in house and my experience with those are usually top notch. They do sell some more generic items too so you must use due diligence when buying.

 

Thanks for the info! I think I'm going to allow for two days for my first door seals. Hopefully cut that down to a day job on door number 2. I will definitely give the window regulator and gears a good look and at the least a lube up. Everything works really well now.

 

My wing windows and rubber is in good shape. And the channel can wait. I'm just replacing the squeegee like window seals on the bottom this time.

 

Not a two day job for a single outer weather belt replacement.
I'll bet you will have both outers done before lunch time.

Inner and outers on both doors might be a day long project with the rivets in the inner slowing things down slightly.

Tell me if you find a coiled up spring on your window crank right behind the door panel. Seems some trucks have them and some don't.

 

I have had the door panel off before when replacing hinges. I do recall a spring around the window crank, to keep the door panel snug to the handle maybe? Too long ago to say for sure. I'll post back after I tackle the first door seal.

You say the outer can be done without taking the door and window apart? I want to do both inner and outer. Maybe that's covered in the youtube? I haven't watched it yet...

 

I did door number one today, inner and outer felts or seals. A few unexpected twists like vacuuming all the dead rubber out of the door, making some minor repairs, replacing a couple Christmas trees. Took time to clean everything up, lube the relayer and apply Fluid-Film to any rust. The arm rest was needing replacement but I'm eventually going to replace the door as there is some road salt damage where a paint scratch turned into cancer. All in all went about as expected.

On the window handle spring asked about, I did not have it. I have had that on other vehicles but I misremembered that my bullnose had that.

On to door number 2 tomorrow...