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1979 F150
Putting new motor (upgraded from a 351m to a fresh build 400) w/ upgraded edelbrock intake and edelbrock 1405 carb.
Trying to put factory cruise control back on.
A couple of questions:
1) Do I just try to connect the ball chain to the throttle cable/rod (because of altered throttle position, made a solid rod linkage to take the place of the factory cable) at a closed position? I assume once the cruise is activated, the vacuum will hold the chain/rod/cable in a constant position.
2) Do I need a modulator/regulator on the vacuum line, or can I have it hooked directly up to the intake manifold vacuum? A lot of the factory vacuum lines have been modified/deleted so far.
I've looked at the factory cruise controls then, they look to be the same as the DANA one I have on my '77. It's not the only way, but it's worked since the '80s, and before this truck, I used one exactly like it on my '67 Chevelle with 454 and TriPower carb set up. Worried about parts, I bought a still new in box never used one off Ebay last year. The ball chain wis crimped into a long metal retainer that has a hole so it too goes on the carburetor ball. Item #20 in the middle picture. I might think to replace the zip ties, they are a "few years" old now. I have changed the carburetor a few times, but just leave the chain as is. My vacuum "servo" used a single stud, it has a long wire flexible cable that is in a long guiding sheath like a choke cable, etc. I just have it mounted on the firewall.
Just hook it to throttle lever, There is a factory clamp on end for carb end but unfortunately made of unobtainium. You should have a vacuum reservoir between cruise and intake for best results.
Just hook it to throttle lever, There is a factory clamp on end for carb end but unfortunately made of unobtainium. You should have a vacuum reservoir between cruise and intake for best results.
It will let the servo pull hard enough and sudden enough that if you ... say for example ... had stepped on the brake to slow when coming up on that tractor pulling that silage trailer, if he then turns off and you punch resume (or accelerate), it will kick into passing gear. I found it a bit harsh. Actual engine intake vacuum limits the servo to a gentler resume or accelerate action as the harder it pulls, the less manifold vacuum it has to work with ... so I don't use a reservoir for my cruise control. But I did once have one in line.
On vacuum lines, mine has a dump valve on the brake pedal mounted disengagement switch.
Just hook it to throttle lever, There is a factory clamp on end for carb end but unfortunately made of unobtainium. You should have a vacuum reservoir between cruise and intake for best results.
Nothing in my set-up is factory anymore, but just wanted to verify that I could hook it up to the throttle linkage with little to no slack and be fine. I do have a vacuum canister hooked up to the system, but did see some vacuum regulators in the original factory diagrams and wanted to make sure we didn't need these.
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I have changed the carburetor a few times, but just leave the chain as is. My vacuum "servo" used a single stud, it has a long wire flexible cable that is in a long guiding sheath like a choke cable, etc. I just have it mounted on the firewall.
