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Thank you, I’ll relocate it. So what’s suppose to be there?? For the first arrow, I didn’t recall seeing another hole there for that second ear. And the second arrow is a screw that snapped off lol. Apparently i don’t know my own strength with a screwdriver. And that was me attempting to take it OFF when it snapped.
You should be able to test it with a continuity check. from the screw head in the connector currently at one end and the wire in the harness that goes to the plug test to that point. I'd use a screw that does not corrode (brass) to help the situation. If there is not a second screw hole there then it is a mdl before they found it to be a good idea. :-)
Never seen one with both rings/loops grounded.
If you looked at the left, you will see the left loop is indeed grounded under the screw that holds it in place.
Yes, the ground is essential. But no, you should not need both rings grounded.
I have actually wondered, ever since the first time I saw one, why the two rings in the grommet. I just assumed that there were certain applications where they use the right side instead of the left. But since I’ve never seen one done that way, I don’t know if that’s the case.
I have another question. Does the armature under the distributor cap need to be perfectly aligned with the magnetic pickup or is that only for static timing? I’ve noticed mine is off to the left.
Being offset is common. Yours does look a little farther than I remember, but there could be other inconsistencies, and it doesn’t take much.
If it’s running and timed properly, and is giving you consistent spark, it should be OK.
That positioning variance, when taken in its relationship to the rotor position in the cap, is known as “phasing“ and some aftermarket distributors even allow you to adjust that.
While it’s in that position, manually manipulate the advance mechanism by pushing against the vacuum advance arm.
Moving the timing plate should hopefully bring it more in the line.
What you don’t want is for the rotor to be too far away from the spark plug contact point when the spark event happens.
The actual spark occurs when the individual points on the armature/reluctor wheel, pass the magnetic pick up point on the stator. That’s what creates the spark event, so what you’re hoping is that everything else lines up with it. Not the other way around.
Having it offset in that position really doesn’t mean anything, if your tests with timing light indicate that all is well.
since I’m not an electrical or magnetic or ignition engineer, I might have some of that wrong. But I believe I have got the basic points correct.
Thank you, I’ll relocate it. So what’s suppose to be there??
I don’t think redroad is referring strictly to its location, as much as to the type of filter.
I have personally used, and still use those filters for many years without ever having a problem. However, the forums are full of stories of peoples experiences where they have leaked, and perhaps caused fires.
I say, perhaps, because it’s always possible the leak started somewhere else, and the filter melted in the fire. However, it’s probably most likely that the filter caused the initial leak.
If yours stays tight, and it’s made of polycarbonate instead of glass, and it’s kept protected, and it’s kept tight, you shouldn’t have any problems either.
But I think everybody agrees that there’s no reason to take that chance, and to utilize another type of filter entirely.
Whether you keep it mounted in the same location, or some other convenient spot between the pump in the carburetor, is up to you.
I don’t think redroad is referring strictly to its location, as much as to the type of filter.
I have personally used, and still use those filters for many years without ever having a problem. However, the forums are full of stories of peoples experiences where they have leaked, and perhaps caused fires.
I say, perhaps, because it’s always possible the leak started somewhere else, and the filter melted in the fire. However, it’s probably most likely that the filter caused the initial leak.
If yours stays tight, and it’s made of polycarbonate instead of glass, and it’s kept protected, and it’s kept tight, you shouldn’t have any problems either.
But I think everybody agrees that there’s no reason to take that chance, and to utilize another type of filter entirely.
Whether you keep it mounted in the same location, or some other convenient spot between the pump in the carburetor, is up to you.
yeah I like these glass ones because I can see when it’s getting full of debris. So I can clean out. And I can see the fuel moving when cranking to know my fuel pump is probably ok.
so I managed to get a spark this time around! But no start still. You had mentioned something about not turning the key all the way to the right. So I was cranking and it wouldn’t start but then I moved the key too far left, by accident, to the accessory side and it almost started. I thought it was a fluke so I tried it again. Key right to start, cranked, quick left to ACC and almost started. What gives! Also replaced the ignition switch to see if that might have been contributing to my no start. But same results.
Am I crazy? Just want to make sure I’m reading this correctly. According to the troubleshooting guide, the acceptable resistance between the ORANGE and PURPLE wires at the distributor connector is between 400-1,000 ohms. According to my multimeter, I’m getting 2.9 ohms? What could cause this? I literally just put it in. Bad off the shelf? Thanks guys. No matter how you slice it, out of acceptable range correct?
Yes, it is possible for the pickup to be bad, even though it is new.
My meter has different ranges I can set it on for ohms, maybe the "select" button on yours does that. A different range may show 290 ohms, still out of range. Also, heat the pickup with a hair dryer, see if the reading changes.
Yes, it is possible for the pickup to be bad, even though it is new.
My meter has different ranges I can set it on for ohms, maybe the "select" button on yours does that. A different range may show 290 ohms, still out of range. Also, heat the pickup with a hair dryer, see if the reading changes.
yeah that’s what I was thinking. Whether it’s 2.9, 290, 2900, etc it’s still not within the 400 to 1,000 range. I’ll try the hair dryer. Thank you!
And at various times, the manuals have stated the range you quoted, the "400-1000" range, while other years listed "400-700" ohms range.
Because of the discrapancy, I've always used the lower 400-700 readings, just in case something comes in at 800 ohms for example, I'll toss it out anyway. Even though it's within spec for the 1,000 spec, it's not for the 700.
Just being overly careful, but don't want one to fail on me half-way out to nowheresville.
Luckily for me, in the more than 40 years I've been using them, I've never yet had one fail on me.
I've heard of plenty, but so far so good on my rigs. Hope I didn't just jinx myself!
And to ditto what scottscott said, not only is it possible, it's all too common. In fact, some members have posted up of getting up to three in a row bad out of the box.
Not quite up there with Ford starter relay/solenoids yet, but trying hard. Long way to go to catch up to those POS parts. We had one guy get six in a row bad!
With the relays, some are faulty right out of the box, while others last a week or so. Some are good for the initial test, but then after the third or fourth start, fail to function after that.
Very frustrating as you can imagine. But it's why we are always on about people who think that throwing parts at a problem is still a valid practice. Just does not work anymore, and can instead add more layers of mystery to the problem.
For you, I would take your meter back to the store with your part and see if the new one turns out the same. Maybe they even have a meter there that they can compare to yours.
It's not out of the realm of possibility that a meter can go bad too. Never had that happen either, but have heard of it plenty of times.
I have some vintage NORS pickup coils, probably from the late 70's early 80's. I've sold a lot of these, haven't had one come back. On a couple of them the wiring was stamped Belden, so at least they used a known wire supplier. I'll ohm it for you before I ship it if you like.
