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Has anyone here swapped the OEM e-locker to a truck that came with the open diff from the factory? I have a 2018 6.2 XLT with the "37" axle code 3.73 open diff. I have found many cases where I'm missing the e-locker that I had in my F-150.
I have a few questions:
Is the wiring already available to do this?
I know I would need the dash switch/selector.
Would it be better to swap the whole assembly, or just the gear/locker assembly? Would a e-locker gears be compatible with a non locker axle housing?
I could get a whole axle assembly from a salvage yard for ~$1400
Parts/bent axle assembly for ~$700/800, with a good e-locker.
I would then sell my takeoff parts to recoup some of the cost either way.
Would be a do it yourself deal if you just swap the whole axle, to swap in the diff components into your axle, you'd be best to let a pro install it so the gear backlash and wear pattern would be set correctly.
I would keep searching for a cheaper axle assembly.
Since EVERYTHING on these newer trucks operated through the ECM / BCM / CANBUS systems; does Fords E-lockers operate by a constant 12V power soiurce or is it just a momentary pulse to engage / dis-engage it? And is it 12V to operate it? Is the “hot” side switched or is it the ground side that is switched?
Is your truck going to need a reflash in order to get things to work as installed from the factory?
If it is as simple as just running a switched 12V wire to it, then an axle swap is going to be the easiest by far. I have installed take-off e-lock Rubicon axles in Jeeps where I did it this way and bypassed all the factory nanny stuff and it was very simple.
If you're going through that kind of expense, I'd start looking at aftermarket lockers like and ARB or Yukon (I'm sure there are others as well). That would get you away from the factory wiring and Ford computer and you'd likely end up with a stronger system also.
Would be a do it yourself deal if you just swap the whole axle, to swap in the diff components into your axle, you'd be best to let a pro install it so the gear backlash and wear pattern would be set correctly.
I would keep searching for a cheaper axle assembly.
That makes sense. I didn't consider this. Axle swap sounds like the easiest option. It's not too bad to do. Sounds like it's pretty much plug and play then, and the wiring is already there? Just need to add the dash switch and enable in forscan?
I found some more axles in the $1,200 range, which include brake rotors and calipers, lines. Lines. Everything. I also found one for $800, but I would need to inspect it to make sure it's straight.
There's also someone local that sells brand new OEM surplus axle assembly for 1,500.
Since EVERYTHING on these newer trucks operated through the ECM / BCM / CANBUS systems; does Fords E-lockers operate by a constant 12V power soiurce or is it just a momentary pulse to engage / dis-engage it? And is it 12V to operate it? Is the “hot” side switched or is it the ground side that is switched?
Is your truck going to need a reflash in order to get things to work as installed from the factory?
If it is as simple as just running a switched 12V wire to it, then an axle swap is going to be the easiest by far. I have installed take-off e-lock Rubicon axles in Jeeps where I did it this way and bypassed all the factory nanny stuff and it was very simple.
I had my rear locker hooked up to an upfitter switch.
A lot of the off-roading guys like these axles for the obvious reasons, and just wire up a simple toggle switch.
I had my rear locker hooked up to an upfitter switch.
A lot of the off-roading guys like these axles for the obvious reasons, and just wire up a simple toggle switch.
Same process I did when swapping in axles on Jeeps then……except for upfitter switch. I would have to wire in a switch when I did that.
If you're going through that kind of expense, I'd start looking at aftermarket lockers like and ARB or Yukon (I'm sure there are others as well). That would get you away from the factory wiring and Ford computer and you'd likely end up with a stronger system also.
I have thought about that. However ARB only shows an air locker, and nothing is shown on Yukon site for my truck.
I prefer an eLocker over an air locker, and I don't really mind the Ford setup. This doesn't get a lot of extreme use, but I have seen a few scenarios where it would nice to have, especially in these Michigan winters.
As for cost, if I sell my old components I would be able to recoup the majority of the cost. If I'm patient and shop around, I could probably be into the whole setup for $500, or even less. Assuming that the wiring is already there for the Ford setup.
I had my rear locker hooked up to an upfitter switch.
A lot of the off-roading guys like these axles for the obvious reasons, and just wire up a simple toggle switch.
The one question I have for this idea is what might happen if a fellow forgets to turn it off...at freeway speed or on dry pavement for instance. I think the factory setup disengages the lock above a certain speed.
The one question I have for this idea is what might happen if a fellow forgets to turn it off...at freeway speed or on dry pavement for instance. I think the factory setup disengages the lock above a certain speed.
If the rear, not much. If the front, you will know about it pretty soon, just in steering feel.
The one question I have for this idea is what might happen if a fellow forgets to turn it off...at freeway speed or on dry pavement for instance. I think the factory setup disengages the lock above a certain speed.
Going straight ahead nothing much would happen, but in a turn the locked rear would cause one tire to start barking as it jumps since it can't turn at a different speed as the other tire.
And, yes, factory locked rear disengages at, I believe, 25 mph.
The one question I have for this idea is what might happen if a fellow forgets to turn it off...at freeway speed or on dry pavement for instance. I think the factory setup disengages the lock above a certain speed.
Just about the same as if one forgets to shift out of 4WD on dry pavement at freeway speeds….….truck will surely explode!!!!!!! LOL
On my 2012 with a 6.2 I added the factory e-locker and upgraded to 4.30 gears from the 3.73’s. I ended up finding a steal on the factory for E-locker carrier on eBay for $150, made it a no brainer. Wired it with a relay on a switch right by the 4x4 ****.
Bought the factory bulkhead plug on the differential, hardest part was drilling the large ~ 1-1/4” hole for this plug.
Since EVERYTHING on these newer trucks operated through the ECM / BCM / CANBUS systems; does Fords E-lockers operate by a constant 12V power soiurce or is it just a momentary pulse to engage / dis-engage it? And is it 12V to operate it? Is the “hot” side switched or is it the ground side that is switched?
Is your truck going to need a reflash in order to get things to work as installed from the factory?
If it is as simple as just running a switched 12V wire to it, then an axle swap is going to be the easiest by far. I have installed take-off e-lock Rubicon axles in Jeeps where I did it this way and bypassed all the factory nanny stuff and it was very simple.
From looking into the factory wiring diagrams on all data, the factory 10.50” sterling e-locker was Pulse Width Modulated by the transfer case control module to engage and disengage. In order to keep “factory”, replacement of TCCM was required along with the programming.
I bench tested the locker at the PWM 5v signal and it was very weak to engage the locker. Standard switched 12v “felt” like a much more solid engagement. Ran that way for 6 years - 100,000mi on my last truck.
