Why would you waste money and time trying to get the factory locker control to work when you have a switch that turns it on whenever you want and will stay on at any speed? Many people with the factory locker bypass the control so it will work whenever you want it to.

 

More than one way to skin a cat. It is easy for one. 5 minutes to swap the controller and $50. Not sure how long the solenoid would last with a full 12volts continually for another. Also ford has it turning off at 30mph for a reason, I am not sure what that reason is but it might be important.

That being said it would be easy to use the stock dash switch to run the locker with just a relay. Is everyone leaving the unit locked for long periods without issue? What might be the concerns of keeping it looked at higher speeds?

 

Safety nanny. People are too stupid and would leave it locked when driving on the highway. Not that the locker can't handle it, but most people can't handle the driving characteristics on hard surfaces.

 

I haven't read through this thread in a while, but have any of you actually pulled the rear cover and confirmed if you even have the locker before doing all of this?

 

Same concerns here and the fact that it only engages at a 95% duty cycle then after, dont quote me but I believe 30 secs, it drops the duty cycle to 45% then disengages all together at 20 mph. I believe the 20 mph is a SAFETY thing with ford to keep them out of a liability spin out !! and breaking things when loaded !! I am curious if anyone has engaged the elocker with 12+ volts, remember a running truck it putting out as much as 14+ volts and how long the elocker has lasted !!

 

If it has an electrical plug you could just jumper wire a 12v tool battery to the terminals. I did that and could hear it click and the wheels locked to each other.

 

10-4. Worked great just before install. The problem we are having is activating the module that supplies the voltage to the locker.

 

I will likely have an answer to that on Monday including weather if kicks off above a certain mph.

the locker module itself has a different part number than the non locker. The locker part number one is cheap on eBay and easy to swap, most likely easier and cheaper than programming for most people.

 

Same here my module will be here Friday. I will post results after install.

 

Yes, people wire the locker straight to a 12v switch all the time, never heard of anyone having an issue with it.

 

Well my eb*y TCCM module arrived a few minutes ago and I just installed it. Wham bam elocker mam !!! 😂 Works great and has dash light as well. Thank you parish8 for the heads up on the part #.
Preacher

 

Also guys I forgot to mention one of the most important things about my build. The elocker carrier AXLES and the open carrier AXLES are DIFFERENT LENGTHS !!!! I almost purchased just the elocker from a donor axle but researched and discovered the axle length discrepancies !!! Just wanted to put this out there. The center line of the carrier pin is .47" moved/different between carriers hence the difference in axle lengths.
Preacher

 

My factory style plug finally came to connect to the plug going into the diff. I haven't had time to thoroughly investigate, but hooking a 12v battery to it gives an audible clunk! I will report back when I can jack it up and confirm by spinning the wheels, but I think I am really lucky and got a free factory locker.

 

that is awesome, you are about $100 and 10 min of work from having a locker.

 

did this end up working?