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I'm in the process of installing the headlight relays and wiring from Wild Horses. Anyone have pics of the wire routing and relay mounting? Original disappears behind the front bulhead and I think I'll have to go infront of the radiator with the relays up by the battery for access.
Harness goes from dvr headlight plug over to pass headlight plug, then to relay, then battery connection correct? At least that was the routing on my early Bronco using the common headlight upgrade harness. I went in front of the radiator and core support. I also ended up having the relay's and fuse near the battery. Does yours have the option to control low beam (single filament) and then high beam other or BOTH filaments (when on high beam) with a diode?
"NOTE: Our headlight harness includes a pre-installed diode that allows the high and low beams to emit light at the same time when the brights are turned on. Should you need to disable this feature, simply remove the diode from the wiring harness."
I installed the WildHorses kit in my 77 F150 around a year ago. I can go out tomorrow morning and take a look how I hooked it all up for you if you want. I don’t remember offhand what I all did but it’s been working like a million bucks and I like the brighter headlights!
I have most of what is needed to just do my own when I catch a chance, warmer weather. I do "have a plan" though. I've decided to fuse the power to low beams separately from the high beams, in case a fuse blows then I have the other.
I did it on a couple vehicles in the past, great results. I'll keep everything across the top of the core support I think, use some split loom wrap. I'll add in a third circuit to use a third relay for my Unity fog lamps.
Thanks for the replies. Seems like all my project develop a life of thier own. Wanted to take the grill shell off to replace the nylon nuts that hold on the inserts. Doh!. Looks like I'd have to take the inner fender and the bumper off. Old wiring in the way so I need to pull the battery out and reroute some things. I'm placing the relays and a cicuit breaker next to the battery. Wires to driver side in front of the bulkhead up high. I'll post pics when I get the mess cleaned up a bit.
Wanted to take the grill shell off to replace the nylon nuts that hold on the inserts. Doh!. Looks like I'd have to take the inner fender and the bumper off.
I would NOT separate the outer grill shell from fenders, unless you have to replace either part. All that connected to the core support (from the factory) via the outer grill shell, inner fenderwells and the fenders make for things to fit better... for the most part. If you start taking parts apart, come reassembly time you can start yourself going down the fender to cowl, fender to door, hood alignment/gap chasing road.
I no longer have a voltage regulator because I've since upgraded to a 3g style alternator, but I did have to make sure I worked around the voltage regulator when I originally did the install.
I can tell you you do not want the relays to get wet or they will stop working.
Then you will need to plug in the trucks plugs to have head lights till you can replace the relays.
Dave ----
