So I bought a new F100 specific Ididit steering column. Din't need it. It was a want thing. I coulda just put new bearings in my existing column, but I wanted tilt.
Where the steering column goes through the firewall is a bit of a conundrum. Below is a photo of the bare firewall that shows the shape of the opening. The column seal, also pictured, that I bought several months back does not cover the entire opening. It gets sandwiched by a metal surround that fits on the interior wall. It goes almost straight across the two top small holes, leaving the top third kinda open. The outer shaft support does cover the top half, but it seems wrong.

Is there something I'm missing here? I'm thinking I may make up a full length cover for the outside.

 

Yes, that rubber boot pictured goes on the inside with a plate that's roughly that size. It uses those bottom four holes around the opening. The outside gets a larger plate that covers the top of the hole with the captured nuts. I'm doing the same ididit column and bought a power steering outside bracket from brian morison at slick parts to get a better angle but if your truck already had P/S you already have it. This is a picture numberdummy posted in 2015.

 

Thanks. Yeah I have all that stuff, but it seems like it's wrong, mismatched, or something is missing.

Or maybe at the factory, the left hand didn't know what the right hand doing, and decided it was just a truck, so go with it.

 

Steering column project DONE!
I thought the whole factory firewall seal, and shaft support was kinda half-assed. No real seal since the firewall seal only covered 2/3s of the hole.
So I made one from 16ga sheet metal and a heavy duty universal gas neck seal.
First I had to mock things up to locate the actual hole position. Made the pieces up and tack welded it together, and then checked the fit again. That other bracket in the photo is my brake light switch mount. I don't like pressure switches. I've had several fail on various vehicles, so I used a GM style brake light switch.
Once I got it all finalized, I shot the column and the new sealing plate with the same wimbledon white as the rest of the truck. A little fiddly getting it all together. The rag joint part that attaches to the steering shaft doesn't fit thru my seal plate hole. So the column had to be slid thru, and then the rag joint flange could go on.
The steering wheel position, which Ididit claims to be in the same spot as the original is actually a bit further away from the driver. That is good as now there is plenty of clearance between my gut and the bottom of the wheel....and my gut is not all that big! Also, one click up on the tilt puts it in a very comfortable position. So my concerns about having to find a smaller diameter steering wheel have been eliminated.
The steering box end has a sliding shaft for different steering boxes.
However, with my power steering box, it is very tight. I had to cut an inch off the shaft, and there is not a fraction of an inch lee-way between the ends of the rag joint between the box and the column housing. I wanted to use a universal joint rather than a rag joint, but there is no room.
Maybe the column housing could be shortened. I did not delve into that to see if it was feasible. The bottom bushing/bearing is held in with a roll pin in a blind hole. I didn't wanna dink with that.
It's in. I'm fairly happy with it. But it wasn't just a bolt in job....at least not the way I wanted it.

 

Nice job on the custom mount.

 

Nicely done.

Rick

 

Looks like factory did it 👍

 

Thanks guys!
Not all is sunshine and rainbows though. There are some caveats to be aware of for anyone thinking of buying this column. It all has to do with Ididit's statement that this will work with the stock steering wheel and the turn signal switch needs the stock wheel to function correctly and maintain the warrantee. This is why I chose this model. If I wanted to switch wheels, I woulda bought one with the GM spline and TS switch. Woulda been cheaper.
Now to the details....
Firstly, the wiring diagram had the right rear and left rear wires bass-ackwards. Easy fix.
The bigger issue is that the TS switch is so tight it would not cancel all the way. I found this out by chance, which meant I was driving around like an idiot.
When the right turn was activated, and then cancelled, the switch would not quite come back to "home." So, it still activated some of the contacts within. As weird as it sounds, it was activating both rear signals as if it were emergency flashers. No front indicators. No dash indicators. So for the past week or two, everytime I completed a right turn, I would continue on my way oblivious to the fact that every one behind me thought this idiot is driving around with his hazards on.
Ididit tech support wanted photos of the switch and the back of my steering wheel. Their solution....get a new steering wheel. Your old one has cracks.
I'm thinking, "OK. Typical. Shift blame elsewhere."
I'm also thinking, the exterior condition has nothing to do with the cancelling cam on the back of the wheel, and it still solid and in good shape.
So I squirted the TS switch with di-electric grease, loosened up the push-nut that holds the cancelling lever onto the switch with needle nose pliers and a little prying, and just worked the TS lever back and forth to get it loosened up some. Maybe rub off some of the manufacturing burrs.
That seemed to have worked, but I'll have to keep an eye on it.
They claim to be using the best parts available. My guess is that it is the same $35 chinese switch everyone sells.
I still have a US made TS switch I bought from C&G Ford on my old column. It was a lot more money, but it has worked flawlessly. I reckon I can swap it out to that one if the problem persists. Its just work.
But, I am quite .....displeased.

 

So, the turn signal switch that comes with the column is an original style switch? I don't care for aftermarket steering wheels, so this seems like a decent option, assuming it holds up to your driving.

 

yes. It is an original style switch that works with the stock steering wheel.
Seems to be the same cheap China switch everyone sells for $35. Maybe you wont have issues with yours.
But, at least you can use your stock wheel.