When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well since my last post on June 16 there has been oil leaks that the shop has been chasing. I've posted in other threads but thought it proper to update this one to keep it all straight. The oil pan had another leak so the shop recommended removing the RTV and using a Morosso rubber oil pan gasket. I read mixed reviews on the gasket but the shop highly recommended going this route and I even talked to Morosso engineering and was convinced tis was a good option. The RTV may be a good seal when the engine was originally built because it's applied by a robot on the assembly line but afterwards being applied by a human, there's lots of room for error. After a few weeks another drip occurred and back to the shop she went. Turning the clock forward to three weeks ago, another oil drip was discovered on the driveway. Back to the shop again! This time, 3rd time lifting the body off the frame, they notices a small leak from the timing cover seal. So this time they lifted the body, resealed the timing cover with a new gasket, resealed the oil cooler fittings with new gaskets, and resealed the oil pan gasket. There was a few other small repairs such as the alternator power wire lug had corrosion (replaced), the backup camera stopped working (ground wire disconnected from the body lift), and the engine began acting up. Every time I shifted the transmission into reverse the engine would die or nearly stall. The shifting issue was corrected by resetting the computers, something like that. Apparently they didn't like having the batteries out or the disconnection of power or something like that. Just picked the truck up this afternoon and she drives beautifully and all the work was covered under warranty. I have to credit the shop for being so nice and standing behind their work. Now I just have to keep an eye on the driveway for a couple months to be sure there are no more oil or fuel leaks.
In the middle od all this, the rear A/C stopped working. The expansion valve got clogged so it was replaced along with the little inline screens both front and rear. The A/C blows nice and cold now. I even stuck a thermometer in the dash center vent (it lives there now) to monitor the temp. It's pretty consistent 48-50 degrees (picture below). I'd like to see it a bit cooler, closer to 42 degrees but it seems other FTE members are getting about 46-48 degrees. Since my compressor is the original I think next spring that will be replaced with a new condenser. Hopefully that will help lower the cold air temp down to the low 40's.
The only other thing done was replacing the rubber seal between the front and rear doors. I thinker's calls a wind deflector or something like that. I still have new lower door seals in the garage waiting for my lazy butt to install and more things to come. A new 240 amp Mechman alternator is on order so that will go in along with 1/0 cables direct from the alternator to the passenger side battery. With the reman replacement alternator in there now I'm seeing 13.8-14.0 volts at the cigarette light port. This is supposed to be where the true system voltage is measured.
After battling the mentioned oil leaks, it appears the shop finally licked the problem but time will tell. They had to reseal the oil pan gasket and replace the timing cover gasket as well as the oil cooler gaskets. This is a review from the previous post. So far so good after 200 miles and almost two weeks.
Yesterday a new Mechman 240 amp alternator arrived and I'm waiting for cables and associated parts. should have that in by next weekend. Stay tuned because there's more to come!
Installed a new Mechman 240 amp alternator today. I posted a full writeup of my experience the the thread titled "Alternator source - DC Power Engineering" if anyone is interested.
A long story short, my old remanufactured OEM spec alternator was showing 13.9 +/- .2 vdc, sometimes as little as 13.6. Now it's 14.8 vdc. I haven't driven it yet but will update this post later today.
This morning I finished adding the passenger side 1/0 ground between the battery negative terminals just like the positive cables are routed. Now there is a positive cable from the alternator positive post to the driver's side battery with a 300 amp fuse at the battery and a negative cable from the alternator mounting bolt to the drivers side battery neg post. Naturally there is a connection between the batteries from pos drivers to the pos passenger battery posts and in addition there's a cable connecting the negative posts of both batteries. Now the alternator has a nice direct connection to both batteries positive and negative. I routed the negative cable along the same path as the positive between the batteries just under the radiator hold down brackets.
Also installed a new mirror control on the drivers door replacing the old grungy 24 year old switch. At the same time replaced the power seat switch on the side of the driver's seat.
Next project will be installing a new set of gauges monitoring Trans temp, fuel pressure, and exhaust gas temp. The triple gauge pod will be mounted above the rear view mirror on the windshield.
I might have mentioned this before but, I’ve been collecting these gauges overtime because quite frankly, they’re pricey! After much research, I’ve purchased the three most essential ones, fuel pressure, transmission oil temp, and pyrometer. To house them I decided on the overhead gauge pod to go above the rear view mirror. I also purchased the pigtail to adjust the red alarm light and just discovered a dimmer switch might be a good idea to match the backlight brightness matching the instrument cluster.
My first challenge was getting the glass shop move the rear view mirror mount about an inch lower to accommodate the gauge pod. Had that done yesterday. Thank goodness it didn’t crack the glass requiring replacing.
Next step is to have the sensors installed. Hopefully that’s done this week and then the final gauge installation.
Stay tuned…
Where you have your CTS 3, I have my Garmin GPS. Plus I like analog gauges so I don’t have to read more than necessary. Granted the CYS 3 delivers more information, and if it could have been mounted above the rear view mirror, I might have considered it. The fact still remains that I like analog and didn’t want them on the pillar.
Its gonna look great up there and readable at a glance. 👍
The 7.3 stock system does not offer the ability to read transmission or exhaust temps unless you add those sensors anyway. So these need to be added whether you're adding physical gauges, or using the CTS.
The 7.3 stock system does not offer the ability to read transmission or exhaust temps unless you add those sensors anyway. So these need to be added whether you're adding physical gauges, or using the CTS.
Actually, the 4R100 does have a temperature sensor in the transmission Valve Body, it is labeled TFT on the Edge CTS-3
Exhaust temps? no... I had to purchase an Edge "Diesel Street Kit" to acquire the EGT probe, Coolant Sensor, and Fuel Pressure Sensor.
Not sure why the IAT always reads "Way Low" compared to the Actual Outdoor Ambient temps....
IMO, it is due to the Venturi Effect like the HVAC Evaporator does.
Finally got the gauge pod installed. Of course the shop bent me over with a $550 bill. They said last Thursday if I brought it in the following day, Fri, they should have it ready by EOD. That didn’t happen and my truck was in this place with ~20 trucks torn apart. I was having nightmares about seeing my truck without an engine or some other catastrophic condition fearing my truck was used for parts.
The reason for my panic, I had a customer meeting yesterday that I couldn’t postpone and today had a 105 mile drive to San Diego for a trade show.
Long story short, the gauges are installed and working seemingly correct. It’s a 7.3 completely stock, no mods and has 204,000 on its clock.
Ambient temperature today was about 75 degrees
Transmission temperature was a steady 130-135 degrees. I have the Mishimoto transmission cooler.
Fuel pressure was mostly at 59 psi but at full open throttle maybe dipped to 57 psi.
Exhaust gas temperature at full throttle was up to 800 degrees and at cruising speed of 75 mph hovering around 400 degrees.
Im curious if others have similar readings..
Update on the gauges...
I couldn't be happier! Fuel pressure seems pretty stable at 59-60psi, trans temp around town, not towing is ~130F, and exhaust temp runs anywhere from 300-900 depending on how hard I'm stepping on the forward pedal or not. They look great and I have piece of mind knowing what the systems are doing.
Update on the gauges...
I couldn't be happier! Fuel pressure seems pretty stable at 59-60psi, trans temp around town, not towing is ~130F, and exhaust temp runs anywhere from 300-900 depending on how hard I'm stepping on the forward pedal or not. They look great and I have piece of mind knowing what the systems are doing.
Came out nice, I need to add a fuel pressure sensor to my cts2
