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1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis Econolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550

LED headlights don't work

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Old Nov 22, 2023 | 07:16 PM
  #16  
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There is no BCM in an 01 van.. that didn't start until 08 when they got the "superduty upgrade" which included a completely modern wiring system based around smart modules along with the front clip and dash.

Your van has the old school system which is mostly just wiring and switches but there are control modules for certain functions... and I wonder if it has a headlight control module, this thing would enable DRL functionality for example but even when that isn't enabled there is some electronics in play that could be acting up.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2023 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Conanski
There is no BCM in an 01 van.. that didn't start until 08 when they got the "superduty upgrade".
Thanks, I figured that was the case.

I'm starting to wonder if the problem is in the hi/lo multifunction switch. I'm going to take the switch out, clean it up inside, and see if that clears up the problem.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2023 | 06:28 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by N147JK
Thanks, I figured that was the case.

I'm starting to wonder if the problem is in the hi/lo multifunction switch. I'm going to take the switch out, clean it up inside, and see if that clears up the problem.
If this condition didn't exist with the standard incandescent/filament bulbs then its not related to the van's chassis wiring or design of the ultra-simple headlight circuits. It's possible the MFS is the problem but again did this exist before the LED swap?

Honestly I'd seek to return the units you have and either receive warranty replacements or money refunded, seek another brand or supplier. UNfortuneately the cost of something almost never an indication how long lasting or "quality" it really is/will be.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2023 | 02:52 PM
  #19  
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Solved this - removed the multifunction switch, opened it up and thoroughly cleaned all of the copper contact surfaces inside. Applied a little dielectric grease and reassembled. It seems to be working perfectly.. no more flickering. Thanks everyone for your contributions and suggestions.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2023 | 05:00 PM
  #20  
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Hey that is good to hear, I fixed erratic turn signals on one of our vehicles by simply disassembling and cleaning the multi function switch, turns out the grease had become partially conductive with copper oxides from the contacts and a good cleaning and fresh dielectric grease was the solution.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2023 | 09:21 AM
  #21  
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Whenever I deal with upgraded headlight systems,I go to relays and take the electric load off the factory wiring. I try and get better "plugs"(connecters) that plug into the bulbs and take them apart and use heavier gauge wire.Seems to me if I remember, the factory uses 16 ga wire. I increase to at least 14,and 12 if really strong off road lights.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2023 | 10:08 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Rick1025
Whenever I deal with upgraded headlight systems,I go to relays and take the electric load off the factory wiring. I try and get better "plugs"(connecters) that plug into the bulbs and take them apart and use heavier gauge wire.Seems to me if I remember, the factory uses 16 ga wire. I increase to at least 14,and 12 if really strong off road lights.
Remember to just take an amp load reading on them before you do that. a LOT of times its just the **** poor connections and the wires are fine for that load, especially for LED stuff. HID, not so much lol
I put on a set of JW Speaker box lights on my e-350, EPIC results, love the ice melting feature. They pull 5.35A @ 12V DC (High Beam) and 4.30A @ 12V DC (Low Beam) compared to the nearly 6 amps that the stock bulbs pull on high beam and nearly 5 on low. SO the wires are MORE than able to handle it. the connectors are JUNK though due to age.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2023 | 12:52 PM
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Gonna guess they are overheating, many different heat sinks, some have fans, add they are near the radiator which is a heat source, if you install one of those relay kits for headlamps good luck, last one I had kept collecting water in the relays, corroded them pretty bad, ended up pulling it all out and going back to the stock wiring, my LED lights still going strong after 6 months tho.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2023 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Rick1025
Whenever I deal with upgraded headlight systems,I go to relays and take the electric load off the factory wiring. I try and get better "plugs"(connecters) that plug into the bulbs and take them apart and use heavier gauge wire.Seems to me if I remember, the factory uses 16 ga wire. I increase to at least 14,and 12 if really strong off road lights.
Many 'chinese' wiring kits, insulation is thicker on the wires, giving the illusion the wiring is upgraded, but reality the wire is smaller, gotta be careful, you can burn the switch itself out too when drawing more due to a bulb upgrade, wiring was fine, switch smoked in an old GM I had, guy I sold it to started using the high beams, I never had, so didn't know there was a problem, I had upgraded from sealed beam to H4, had some bright bulbs in it.
 
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