Which one of these is the right one? I see both when I Google it.

 

Fuel Line and A/C Quick Disconnect Tool, 6 Piece (harborfreight.com)

Any of the tools you posted are probably going to work, or the set I posted above. You need to pull the orifice tube. If it is covered in trash, plan on a compressor. You can buy flush products to flush out the condenser and evaporator. There are no moving parts to wear out, as long as you can flush the out and there is no physical damage, no reason to change. Pull your compressor off and see if you can get any oil to drain out of the inlet or outlet fitting. Assess for trash content in the oil. Go ahead and purchase a complete a/c oring kit for your truck. I know they are available on Rock Auto. If the system is open, it just makes sense to replace all the seals. Before installing the orings, let the soak in refrigerant oil. Your truck was a factory R12 system, I think from what I read when researching it, you need the blue FOT when converting it to R134a. Seals, FOT, line set, flush chemical, dryer, oil and refrigerant, and you may be ready to rock and roll. Have you tried turning your compressor over by hand? Not the outer pulley, but the front of the clutch? If your compressor is locked up, then you know for sure you have to replace it. If it turns smoothly, you can gamble on it and go.
Or, to play it safe, buy the parts kit from Rock Auto, plus flush chemical and hoses. On a new compressor, you need to pour around half the total volume of oil into the "Suction" side of the compressor and turn it over by hand 20-30 times. Hold a rag over the discharge as it will spit some oil. Once again, not turning the pulley, but the front of the compressor clutch. Then pour the other half of the oil into the receiver/drier before installing it.

 

Oh yes it full of moisture.

 

The clutch turns freely it isn’t locked up

 

Buy the tools
Replace the fixed orifice and as many o rings as you can
Rent a vacuum pump from the parts store
Suck it down and see how long it holds vacuum
I use a brand new set of gauges when vacuum testing
Yours has been converted if it had a 134a connector on the low side
That means add a small amount of Ester oil, and if holds vacuum, you can recharge it with 134a

 

This is my preferred set...

 

Ok, I’ll research which ones I want to get

but here’s a video of the compressor when I move it.

 

It is not seized, so there is that. Does not mean not dying.

If you are keeping truck and have the means, just start fresh with the bits. Really it is not awful.

 

Does anyone have a line kit they can recommend? I think I put a kink in one of the lines moving it. And red orfice is 134a and blue is r12 right?

 

There is no difference in the orifice between R12 and R134a
The difference is the vehicle interior space and the evaporator and case design
That determines which one you use
Ford has 1 fixed orifice color that came with your truck / for your truck

 

Last I checked one has a 0.062" hole and other 0.067". R12 trucks of this era had blue, 134A had red. Different gasses meter differently.

At least that is what came out of all mine and I have seen over the years.

 

Ford made no change in the orifice size for the two freons
When the old R12 went away, and the new R134a came in, the orifice was the same
Acquire one anywhere, but just run the one Ford parts says you need
Ford is not going to ask you what freon you are running
Neither is anybody else, they are going to ask you what you are driving is all

 

Blue is 0.067" and red is 0.062". Remember these gasses have a different moleculear size...so the expansion device, in this case a FOT, has to change to meter properly.

I deal with this often on my vintage euro cars. There is a specific R12 and specific R134A TXV in those. Performing a slipshod job and not changing it will result in poor performance.

Another huge factor is folks charging from some old 70-75% conversion capacity. You work off temperature differential, not simple capacity. That 75% will get you in ballpark

 

I was reading some stuff, and you guys were saying it had moisture in the system. Well what I was reading says that can ruin the evap core and other stuff. So I was gonna do the four seasons kit, and the clutch cycle switch. But do I just want to go with a evap core too? And even possibly a condenser? How would I check the condition of those? Will the orfice tube tell me? And how can I check condenser without pulling radiator out again?

 

The issue is the chemical reaction between water and freon or oil (I don't remember which, too many years since tech school) makes sulfuric acid, which will eat the metal parts from the inside out. The other issue is water/moisture takes volume in the system, as well as the moisture will travel through the system, and it will not react to the pressure changes like refrigerant will, causing a decrease in system performance.