I have a 1988 f150. I was looking at AC stuff, to do myself since I can’t afford to pay a shop to do it. As the 100+ degree weather is around the corner, so I would like to do this if I can come up with the money to do it. I have 2 threads relating to different ac topics, but those derailed because they got so big. So, I went through the list of ac parts on Rockauto and came up with a list for a AC overhaul.

AC compressor and component kit: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...sn=512&jsn=512
( I have a question regarding the red vs blue office tube, which would I need? I believe it’s factory AC, based off research I did, and it’s a Cali truck. So I want whatever’s better cooling if it’s just a choice)

AC compressor relief valve: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=6696&jsn=525
(is this a part of a new compressor?)

AC condenser: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=6708&jsn=471

AC evaporator core: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=6768&jsn=539

AC compressor clutch assembly: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=6572&jsn=541
(Would I need the 4.8 something inch one, or the 5” one? And does the new compressor have one I see something that looks like one, on the one I linked but there’s spots where it looks like something else could mount) I chose the one that looked like mine.

My AC system has no pressure in it I pushed on a valve with a screwdriver and nothing came out. So I don’t have to recover anything. Is this something I could replace parts and then take the oil to a shop and have them put the proper amount of oil, refrigerant and check my work? I’ve never touched an AC system before, so I don’t know what to expect. I know some people say it’s easy just educate yourself, and some say never ever touch it yourself.

And to replace the evaporator do I have to rip the whole dash apart, is that something worth replacing?

 

If you going to do all that you should invest in new line set for the truck. Do all your repairs,parts replacement pull a vacuum on it to see if it is holding or leaking.

 

Fix the leak
Replace the compressor and the dryer kit if cheap enough
Are you running R12 or has it been retrofitted to R134a?
Use the orifice color designed for the truck, it is not a choice
You should not need a relief valve
Yours will be adequate
Did you check all over for oil looking for the leak?
Take a pic of the compressor and the condenser also the high side hose / tube connections to the condenser
The high side line going into the evap where the fixed orifice is, those o rings leak regularly
Good luck

 

I never checked for leaks, the system was inoperable when I got the truck, and I had hosed the engine bay down before I checked for leaks so I don’t think there’s anymore uv dye, and I’m not sure if it’s converted, high side has r-12 fitting and low has r134a so I need to take orfice tube off and check for “Black Death”. I figured replacing everything would be a better thing, because every time I touch a system on this truck I find something else wrong in that system, so I figured instead of worrying about breaking something and something else going wrong redo the system and it’ll be good for many years to come. If that is a bad idea I’ll have to find out what leaks somehow, and replace it. And convert it if needed. But if it’s better to replace everything I’ll find a ac line kit.

 

Start with an 89+ compressor and line set. Better unit and bolts right into place.

Condenser upgrade smart that you chose or can do a 94+ easily with different liquid line fitting. Just depends upon parts availability. Easier to pull rad to remove old condenser, but can weasel it out with rad installed.

Red orifice tube for 134A. Run 38oz of 134A. Ford now specs 11oz oil, I prefer PAO 68 but that is me. Old spec was 7oz.

Evap is just fasteners under hood and cover pops off. Seven I think, cannot recall if one pulls that one from inside the cab by carpet. Maybe that is just the 94+ trucks. Need a spring connection tool to remove old, unless you just remove it with the old evap and liquid line.

Easy job. Figure if you never have done one, 6-10 hours start to finish. I had pal's components all swapped and under vacuum in about two hours.

 

Here’s photos of this hose. Is there any clues as to what refrigerant is in this?

 

I didn’t take the hose off above the intake manifold because it’s got those high pressure clamps.
Is there any way to tell what refrigerant is in it now at all?

 

Refrigerant is a gas or liquid, depending upon its state. You have no pressure so that is empty... judging by the 134A tit on dryer, probably had that as a quickie 'retrofit'

BUT

I have an R12 car with those **** as I built a new line set and easier to use my quick disconnects.

Pull your FOT from the evap and see how nasty it looks. Dark grey or has 'wood chip' looking bits (Teflon) means compressor checking out.

 

I was messing with hoses looking for what your talking about and this thing had residue on it and i smelled it making sure it wasn’t atf from dipstick the residue smells fruity

 

Is this the FOT? If not where is it? I see that solid line next to the dryer going into the black box with the evap is that it?

 

How do I take this off?

 

It uses a disconnect tool to remove it like on the fuel line quick disconnect.

 

Is there a way to do it without the tool, or do I need to go buy the tool?

 

Well you just rip your ac apart you going to be buying or renting a truck load of tools. I never tried to take 1 apart without a tool. You will need something to slide up into the backside of fitting to open the release spring.

Why you taken it apart now if you do not have the stuff to put it all back together. There no reason to take it apart now. Every day your ac system is open leaves more chances of contaminants getting into the system.
All you going to do is open it up to look at the orifice tube. For what a FOT cost new buy 1 new for it only around 10$.

 

System was empty. Full of moisture anyway.

Need a tool as he and I stated. I think you can rent them but Lilse (sp?) makes great ones.