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So I have a Frankenstein of a highboy
stock 4wd 73 Column
Benchworks power steering
460 swap with l&l fender exits
as you can see the shaft is hitting number 8 tube and I cannot put the u joints on
If the joint was a few inches higher there would be no clearance issues.
I think the most expensive option is a tilt Col that would put it up higher
I could cut it and then section it back in
Cut it have the shaft re Keyed
Or this u joint #BRG-014964 that I could weld to the shaft that would adapt to 3/4DD
any other options or options on what is safest is more than welcome
You need a different steering column that has a SHORTER steering shaft, when it exits the fire wall. Look for a late 77 to 79 steering column from a 4wd truck.
You need a different steering column that has a SHORTER steering shaft, when it exits the fire wall. Look for a late 77 to 79 steering column from a 4wd truck.
I like your Saginaw p/s upgrade, who did you get the kit/brackets from?
brackets are from CVF racing the saganaw had no issues it is bolted in solid
The sanden compressor works great Aswell
Im using a 3g alternator so I had to shim it out further to get alignment
Thanks for the info, good luck finding a JY steering column that is shorter. Maybe just change the inner shaft?
Yes you need a 4wd manual trans column/inner steering shaft, so you get the splined end shaft going into the eng compartment.
I once swapped a '67 Impala tilt column into my '67 Chevelle, the Impala steering shaft was way too long. I cut it and did some welding. I even kept the slip shaft feature.
The clamp that holds the shaft from being pulled out wouldn’t be able to fit if I cut the shaft down so my options are
77.5-79 4wd col $500 and needs a rebuilt
or a ididit Col for $800
This problem grows each day
I have an early 73 so I need to remove the lower bearing bracket to be able to install the newer style and then I can have the shaft cut down and re splined
I still am working on a solution to clamp the Column like how it was done originally
I'd have pulled the shaft out after measuring excess, cut exactly that, deep beveled the cut, and welded the two pieces together clamped in a jig of angle iron with E7014 at 90 amps, then when done, work it smooth. It worked for a inch diameter drive shaft on our 1997 Honda GL-1500 trike,. I know that trike in low gear transmits more torque than any human holding a steering wheel will.
But that's just me. I don't have pics of any modified steering shafts, but this is a spare drive shaft for that trike wrapped as carried in our trailer "just in case", it uses a Honda U-joint on the trans end, but sMoog "big cap" 430 U-joint on the axle end. Tape covered the welds. On a several day road trip, two up, pulling the trailer on the Blue Ridge Parkway, the Honda U-joint started rumbling, so I slipped this one in, as far as I know it's still there. The yoke was bored but the shaft was only welded on one side, I later welded the butt end too. I put a new Valkyrie U-joint in to replace the failing one.
Seller https://www.ebay.com/str/2monkeyboys
is going to make me a column that should work
it will have a 74 column so I can still use my steering wheel and the base length with be like a 78-79 and the bearings are held in with snap rings so I don’t have to worry about the clamp.
to give me more adjustment if needed he’s going to put on the 78-79 power steering bracket on the column
Solved if anyone else has issues. I will recommend that eBay seller for anyone who wants their column rebuildt. Came with turn signal switch, arm, new bearings and painted for a very low cost. I definitely needed the larger 78-79 power steering adjuster bracket and the column is just on the edge of the clamp but it is solid and clears perfectly
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