I am in the process of replacing my old Steering Shaft with a new Borgeson set-up. I cannot figure out how to remove the old setup on the Firewall to install the new Borgeson fitting (See photo). Any/all help is appreciated.

John

 

That Borgeson piece is just a universal joint. To hook it to your existing shaft you'd have to cut off that large end that would normally attach to the rag joint and possibly work the side of the shaft near the tip to accept the set screw since the shaft is round. The rag joint was there to break away in case of a severe front end collision so the steering shaft wouldn't be forced further into the cab (drivers chest). You will partially eliminate that safety feature unless you design something else to break away. The u-joint isn't going to have that same safety factor designed in by itself but two u-joints spaced apart can allow things to fold in case of collision. Or just avoid a collision....

 

Not to repeat anything but it’s a grinder you need, cut it off while leaving enough shaft exposed to attach the new u joint.

 

I agree. I have ground the welds that hold the flange on to save as much shaft as possible. For example, the stock power steering shafts for the Bendix gearboxes were shorter than the manual but not as much as is hidden inside of the flange that is usable shaft. Good to clarify.

 

...It depends upon what Borgeson U-joint he's got. If it is set up for a "Double-D" he will have to grind the steering shaft to match. If it is designed for a "splined" fit, the steering column will have to be machined to fit. The same issue goes for the steering box. In either case, John, you've got to measure, measure, measure to determine how much space the U-joint will take up compared to the rag joint, between the end of the steering shaft and the steering gearbox. To answer your specific question about steering set up removal. You'll need to remove the clamp in the engine compartment, the wiring connector to the column, the bolts holding the column to the dash, and remove the entire column. Make your measurements first. Then you will need to remove the flange from the rag joint. Same goes for the steering box, unless you have a new or different box. I would beg to disagree that the rag joint presents a safety feature. From information I have gathered, it is more to flex and allow slight movement between the cab and the frame. The u-joint will provide the same feature. I doubt that the "cushion" provided by the rag joint (maybe 1/16"?) would prevent the steering wheel from embedding into anyone's chest during a head-on.

 

Thanks for the info everybody.

I have the Borgeson Splined fitting. So you are saying that I have to have the stock shaft machined? Do you have any photos of what yours looked like after machining?

Thank you,

John

 

What is the best way to secure the fitting to the old Shaft?

 

John, remove the flange from the steering shaft/rag joint. It could be (hopefully should be-Ford spline) that the shaft is already splined to match your U-joint. T455HO...reading your post again, I think I see what you mean about the rag joint flange "sliding' to relieve some of the pressure applied in a collision. You and other posts mention that the shaft is round where it joins the rag-joint flange. If that's so, I understand now, that the flange could slide on impact. It would also be significant pertaining to fitting his Borgeson U-joint, which is apparently splined.

 

This is a shaft from a 65. If yours is the same I do not believe what you are doing will work. The shaft is splined but the rag joint flange is swedged on and the end of the shaft is upset to hold it. The shaft is .750 dia. but the splined end is .810 dia., indicating it was expanded. there is only 1/2 inch of spline. not nearly enough to be safe If it is the right spline count. If you are going to use your old shaft I would remove it and have it machined for a double "D".

 

Thank you so much for the info. I removed the Rag Fitting today exposing the Spline. I see what you mean about the end being a bit thicker.
John

 

Now that you have it apart it's a good time to shorten everything and get the wheel out to a more comfortable position.

 

I shortened mine 3 times to get it to a desirable position. These trucks or most older vehicles come with a safety risk of driving. Moving the wheel further away is a good thing to do. Power steering also helps. That's what keeps me from making my truck faster. quicker or corner better. It's a tin can with some style. Have some respect.

 

I went junking and found shaft from joint to joint that slip together and cut what I needed and welded my ends on so in wreck one slides up into other and that eliminate rag joint.for safety

 

Most steering specialists recommend to never, ever weld a steering shaft. I think there is mention of it on the Borgeson website as well, and there are multiple reasons.

 

If there is room between the two U-joints, Flaming River makes a collapsible "DD" steering shaft that you can cut to length and will give you adjustment since the outer piece slides over the inner piece. It also collapses in the event of a collision. Don't know if you have room for this set up but I used it my 69 Chevelle that I used to have.