Sorry for the noob question, but I couldn't find a definitive answer on this (and I'm kinda a new to turning wrenches).

I just recently picked up a 67 Ranger and wanted to do a disc brake upgrade for safety reasons. I know of the 73-79 donor option, but I'm trying to figure out pros and cons between this and a kit.

With the donor option, I'm assuming that I'll still have to buy new rotors, replace the kingpins, get new pads, lines, and bushings, etc.

Assuming that I get all of the required parts with the Wilwood Kit, and I can still use the stock spindles, why wouldn't one choose this route? From what I've looked at, the stock caliper is a single piston, so the kit would clearly be an upgrade as well.

Here she is.

 

The big benefit I see to using a donor is that any parts needed in the future (pads, rotors etc) can be picked up at a parts store. With a kit, who knows what parts they use or if they're proprietary to that manufacturer.
The benefit to a kit though is, most likely, better quality and functionality than brakes designed 50+ years ago.

BTW, great lookin truck!

 

I've been contemplating that question myself. Personally, I'm leaning more towards a CPP kit. Its a little pricier than the Wilwood kit (which is also better as far as performance goes, in my opinion), but they use off the shelf parts. With Wilwood, you have to use their pads and rotors which was a major buzzkill for me.

 

Did you ever get the 140-14607 kit? I'm having the exact same debate right now. I see the following options:

• 73-79 donor
• Kits with new spindles
  • CPP 12" rotor kit ($750)
  • Baer 14" rotor kit ($$$)
• Kits with drum spindles
  • scare bird ($450)
  • Wilwood 140-14607 ($850)

I also have a '67 ranger with factory power drum brakes. I'm considering going the Wilwood route after I verify my spindles and kingpins are OK. If not, I might as well get new spindles or donor parts.

My question to you if you went the Wilwood route - Did you change your master cylinder or add a proportioning valve? Their instructions don't mention either, but I always thought front discs needed proportioning valves to prevent rear wheels from locking first. My plan was to try it and see, otherwise plumb in a valve.

 

If you go from drum to disc you MUST change the master cylinder to a disc/drum type. Drum brake masters have residual pressure valves in both lines if you leave it that way the residual pressure valve will cause the pads to stay in contact with the disc, not good.

 

Just to add info to this thread, Scarebird sold out and the new owner greatly reduced the number of conversions offered. They no longer make any disk conversion kits for Ford trucks.

 

CPP make spindles and use stock parts from the 70s era trucks...https://www.ebay.com/itm/284107592343. Just another option. _Tony.

 

Thanks @davelj - I'd been waiting for that scarebird bracket to come back in stock. That's a shame because that was a good option.

I'm looking at doing the a CPP master cylinder/proportioning valve combo with the Wildwood kit For my '67 2WD F-100:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-6572bb24-8d
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-140-14607

A few questions:
1. Do I need the 6572bb2 or 6572bb24 MC? CPP lists both on their website but only one is on Summit and their comment says it works with both.
2. Anyone know what length brake hoses work or any specific recommendations?

Looking to pull it in the garage this week and get moving. Checked kingpins today and didn't have very much play, so I'm opting not to use a kit that replaces the spindles so I can get it back in the road ASAP. These two together appear to be the closest to drop in options.