Front disk brake conversion kit
Front disk brake conversion kit
I’ve always known the drum brakes from 1948 were not the best, but TS really showed me the weakness in these brakes. I’ve been looking at front disk brake conversion kits for quite awhile, and I’m still confused. I want to keep the stock pedals, so that seems to mean keeping the stock location for the master cyl.
I’m thinking of this kit from CPP https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...l/f1/year/1948 . Reasonable price and they say no mods to the pedals are needed. If I do this kit on the front, and rebuild the back drums and all the hard lines, I think I’ll have a solid brake system.
Opinions wanted, and as discussed at TS, I know these are newbie questions, and I can hear your laughter through the computer, but I’m ok with that. Laugh away, but I’ll be around to hear it because my truck will stop safely.
I’m thinking of this kit from CPP https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...l/f1/year/1948 . Reasonable price and they say no mods to the pedals are needed. If I do this kit on the front, and rebuild the back drums and all the hard lines, I think I’ll have a solid brake system.
Opinions wanted, and as discussed at TS, I know these are newbie questions, and I can hear your laughter through the computer, but I’m ok with that. Laugh away, but I’ll be around to hear it because my truck will stop safely.
I've done a couple of disc brake conversions on the 48-50 trucks. On my 49 I bought the bare bones basic kit that only came with the caliper bracket and the spindle adapters (I already had the calipers). I wanted to retain the 5 on 5 1/2" hubs so the kit spec'd out 73-90 Ford 1/2 ton rotors. I don't have the stock master cylinder or pedals. I fabbed my own hanging pedal assy and am using a mid 80's Cadillac MC.
I also helped a buddy install a disc brake kit on his 1925 GMC (He's running a 1948 Ford 1/2 ton front axle assy) He bought a kit similar to the one you posted a link for. The kit was an easy install. On some axles you need to reposition the grease zerks on the king pins. I think we had to change them to a 90 degree zerk instead of straight. We also had to grind the outside edge of the calipers just slightly for wheel clearance. I don't recall what he's using for a master cylinder but its a non power unit that is mounted down along the frame.
Don't worry about asking questions around here. You won't find anyone ragging on you about being a newbie or asking the same questions that have been asked hundreds of times before. We're here to help when we can and chances are someone here has been through exactly what you're going through and might be able to give some advice.
Good luck with it.
Bobby
I also helped a buddy install a disc brake kit on his 1925 GMC (He's running a 1948 Ford 1/2 ton front axle assy) He bought a kit similar to the one you posted a link for. The kit was an easy install. On some axles you need to reposition the grease zerks on the king pins. I think we had to change them to a 90 degree zerk instead of straight. We also had to grind the outside edge of the calipers just slightly for wheel clearance. I don't recall what he's using for a master cylinder but its a non power unit that is mounted down along the frame.
Don't worry about asking questions around here. You won't find anyone ragging on you about being a newbie or asking the same questions that have been asked hundreds of times before. We're here to help when we can and chances are someone here has been through exactly what you're going through and might be able to give some advice.
Good luck with it.
Bobby
That would not be my choice. Skip the rookie mistakes and laughter and go with a complete kit that has everything you need from people who know brakes, and can give top notch tech support if you need it. I don't think you can beat the price, either, especially for quality parts. (save your money and skip the drilled rotors, too. Those are for the kids who think they need to look cool. They won't help you any more than plain vented rotors) https://www.mpbrakes.com/front-brake...F068F06A9DD677
I've done a couple of disk brake conversations albeit on (53-56s) and those piecemeal kits have cost me close to what a complete kit would cost. Most of our major suppliers offer complete kits. No need for anything fancy, except ask the vendor if their masters have check valves in them. That is an additional requirement if they don't. Residual Check valves come in two flavors: 2 lb for disc and 10 lb for drums. The cost isn't terrible but the additional brake lines, cutting and then flaring lines offer several more places for leaks.
Be sure to get a kit that uses your original brake pedal arm. Often the kits that replace your pedal arm need bending and or cutting and welding. Especially if you're keeping stock column and three speed column shift. And they just don't look right if you're trying to keep a semi stock look.
Be sure to get a kit that uses your original brake pedal arm. Often the kits that replace your pedal arm need bending and or cutting and welding. Especially if you're keeping stock column and three speed column shift. And they just don't look right if you're trying to keep a semi stock look.
I’ve been reading about the MP kit on various forums (google is my friend) and it appears folks are disappointed with their customer service. The kit appears to have everything included, proportioning valve, check valves, caliper mounts, master mounts, wheel bearings, etc. All I’d need is hard lines, no biggie.
CPP seems to have better reviews, but the kit isn’t as complete. There’s no mention of proportioning valve or check valves, mounting bracket for the master, maybe a few other items.
I’m tempted to go with the MP kit, but reports of poor customer service are a concern. I did notice that many of the reports were several years old.
Thoughts?
CPP seems to have better reviews, but the kit isn’t as complete. There’s no mention of proportioning valve or check valves, mounting bracket for the master, maybe a few other items.
I’m tempted to go with the MP kit, but reports of poor customer service are a concern. I did notice that many of the reports were several years old.
Thoughts?
I'd call CPP. Ask them your concerns. I'd even say call MP too. There's nothing worse than buying something and finding out whomever you bought it from is a retailer for Chinese knock off stuff. I wish I'd have called before purchasing. You'll be able to tell what kinda customer service you'll get REAL FAST. Not that wait I'll ask a technician and sitting on hold for 1/2 hour.
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I'd call CPP. Ask them your concerns. I'd even say call MP too. There's nothing worse than buying something and finding out whomever you bought it from is a retailer for Chinese knock off stuff. I wish I'd have called before purchasing. You'll be able to tell what kinda customer service you'll get REAL FAST. Not that wait I'll ask a technician and sitting on hold for 1/2 hour.
I will call before purchase. The CPP kit comes from Speedway for the best price, MP seems to be only direct.
I got my kit from speedway Of course, I still had to buy a new Master cylinder, check valves, etc. But I've been happy with it.
I had got my parts from ECI Brakes;
https://www.ecihotrodbrakes.com/index.html
The kit I installed on my buddy's truck was the one from Speedway motors
https://www.ecihotrodbrakes.com/index.html
The kit I installed on my buddy's truck was the one from Speedway motors
My 51 F1 came to me with a conversion kit from Sacramento Vintage Ford installed, driven a couple of hundred miles at most. I tore down the truck to rebuild everything, so the parts came off. I cleaned, painted, and reassembled.
I replaced all of the Chinese no-name wheel bearings with real Timkens, as I wasn't willing to trust my life and my rebuilt truck to cheap bearings.
The rest of the components were fine and of generally good quality. I probably didn't need to change the bearings, but I have become very wary of cheap no-name bearings, having replaced dozens of them over the years in power tools and machinery. My experience has been that they have a short life when compared to the name brands like Timken,, Nachi, ***, etc.
I now have over 2,000 miles on the truck and the brakes are very good with very little wear.
I replaced all of the Chinese no-name wheel bearings with real Timkens, as I wasn't willing to trust my life and my rebuilt truck to cheap bearings.
The rest of the components were fine and of generally good quality. I probably didn't need to change the bearings, but I have become very wary of cheap no-name bearings, having replaced dozens of them over the years in power tools and machinery. My experience has been that they have a short life when compared to the name brands like Timken,, Nachi, ***, etc.
I now have over 2,000 miles on the truck and the brakes are very good with very little wear.
I did the cpp kit on a ‘56 and it turned out great. The one I had came with hoses, calipers, rotors, bearings, shims and hardware. Hardest part was relocating the grease fitting for the kingpin. I also swapped to the dual res MC and kept my floor pedal.
Probably a bit different from your truck but the kit quality was great. Braking performance was substantially better.
Probably a bit different from your truck but the kit quality was great. Braking performance was substantially better.
Ok I got my disc brake kit from CPP. But I also added the power brake booster and master under the truck. The only piece I had to fabricate was the hard line to the rear drum brakes. I just bought some brake hard line and bent it to copy the stock line just had to extend it a few inches. Power disc brakes in my 1955 was well worth it. No problem with vacuum lines just route it to the bottom of carb plate. Being able to stop is a good thing.
Thanks
Jerry
Thanks
Jerry














