disc brake conversion for 49f1
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,717
Likes: 506
From: clinton,tn
disc brake conversion for 49f1
i am about to put my front axle back together.i need to get the disc brake set up before i put my spindle's back on so i can use a press on the adapter's.might make the swap a little easier.who has the best set up out there.if you have done this swap where did you get your's ,thank's ,tracy
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 520
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From: Wellington, CO
I just got the CPP kit for my 55, it's going together tomorrow. The 5 x 4.5 kit uses Volare rotors and 2nd gen Camaro calipers. They also make 5 x 4.75 and 5 x 5.5 kits as well. I got mine from Speedway Motors, the basic kit was 99 bucks. That gets you the bearing adapters, the caliper brackets and the hardware. MP Brakes and ECI also make kits as well.
Junior User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 85
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Shipping a concern on full kits???
I've seen the ECI kits and I really like them. 3 weeks ago we had an ECI kit in for a customer. ECI sends Canadian made rotors off of a pre 93 F150 and GM calipers so you can easily replace parts later if you need to. They have full kits and basic kits. The only thing you need to add to the Complete ECI kits are flexible brake hoses and bearing cup seals for the hub.
CPP also has quality kits - haven't seen their disk kit, but there under floor mount power brake set-up is really nice and complete.
Either CPP or ECI is a great choice and you can't go wrong with either one.
We mostly deal in 53-56, but the kits fit your F1 also.
Shiping costs can be a concern: If you live near CA, the CPP kit may be cheaper to ship to you. If you're close to the East coast, ECI is out there.
F100 Central is in Ohio....if you're close to us, it may save you some shipping.
You can check out our ECI kits here
CPP also has quality kits - haven't seen their disk kit, but there under floor mount power brake set-up is really nice and complete.
Either CPP or ECI is a great choice and you can't go wrong with either one.
We mostly deal in 53-56, but the kits fit your F1 also.
Shiping costs can be a concern: If you live near CA, the CPP kit may be cheaper to ship to you. If you're close to the East coast, ECI is out there.
F100 Central is in Ohio....if you're close to us, it may save you some shipping.
You can check out our ECI kits here
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 21,976
Likes: 9,811
From: Rio Rancho, NM
I used the ECI kit. Very easy install, I did mine on the truck.
First I built a driver out of some pipe (I can't remember if I used 1 1/2 or 2" pipe, couplers and a cap). But the thought af banging the tar out of the bearing adapters didn't apeal to me, they looked a bit fragile for serious banging.
Here is a tip I picked up from the Bonus Built website; Put the spindle adapters in a 400+ degree oven for a bit before trying to install them. I put mine in there for about 1/2 hour. During that time I made sure my spindles were good and clean, no burs, etc.
One side at a time take an adapter out and slide in on the spindle. A couple of taps with your driver to seat it and you're golden. Now do the other side.
Quick and easy
Bobby
First I built a driver out of some pipe (I can't remember if I used 1 1/2 or 2" pipe, couplers and a cap). But the thought af banging the tar out of the bearing adapters didn't apeal to me, they looked a bit fragile for serious banging.
Here is a tip I picked up from the Bonus Built website; Put the spindle adapters in a 400+ degree oven for a bit before trying to install them. I put mine in there for about 1/2 hour. During that time I made sure my spindles were good and clean, no burs, etc.
One side at a time take an adapter out and slide in on the spindle. A couple of taps with your driver to seat it and you're golden. Now do the other side.
Quick and easy
Bobby
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 520
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From: Wellington, CO
So I didn't have a quick and easy time today. Put the adaptors in the oven in my shop and set it at 450. Let them heat up and slid them on the spindles which I gave a good going over with emery cloth. Made the 1.5" pipe driver and started flailing away. It didn't go well, the bottom line is I'm still about 1/4" short of flush on both sides and I'm worn out and PO'ed! My 12 ton press didn't budge them, so I'm hoping the 50 ton hydraulic at work can drive 'em home tomorrow. Put them on a light bulb and slide them over my you know what! I'm bummed, but I'll recover hopefully.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,717
Likes: 506
From: clinton,tn
hope you get them on tomorrow with the 50 ton press,let us know how that go's.that is why i want to get the kit before i put my front end back together.i plan on putting them in the press with a little pressure applyed as i put some heat at the same time,then when they start to go apply more pressure until they bottom out.(that's the plan anyway).good luck on your's.tracy
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Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,717
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From: clinton,tn
i did a search on all the input info i got last night on here,thank's ,has any body used the kit from midwest early ford?it has the same part number as no limit has and look's good,plus they are in mid ohio and shipping wouldn't be too bad.may have to use my old dust cap's,thank's in advance, tracy
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 520
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From: Wellington, CO
Well,
I guess I did get them driven home yesterday. It just turns out I'm not as smart as I think am (as usual). The smart guys at work say the adapters are bottomed out on the spindle shoulder. It just looks weird that the adapters don't press flush to the flat face of the spindle. A quick check with a machinist's scale shows that the gaps are identical on both spindles. I think CPP's directions could be a lot better in some respects. Some more pictures would help out a lot.
I guess I did get them driven home yesterday. It just turns out I'm not as smart as I think am (as usual). The smart guys at work say the adapters are bottomed out on the spindle shoulder. It just looks weird that the adapters don't press flush to the flat face of the spindle. A quick check with a machinist's scale shows that the gaps are identical on both spindles. I think CPP's directions could be a lot better in some respects. Some more pictures would help out a lot.
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 21,976
Likes: 9,811
From: Rio Rancho, NM
WOOHOO!!
Look on the bright side, at least you KNOW they are seated....lol
I don't think any instruction on any kind of retrofit kit are any good. I think there must be some kind of law or something, maybe its even part of the ISO9000 standards or something saying that you must not provide clear and concise instruction with diagrams and pics for any part for any reason.
If I remember right my ECI basic kit came with a single 8x10 page with several steps listed. No diagrams, no pics, no help at all
Glad it turned out well for you after all, it will be worth it in the end.
Bobby
Look on the bright side, at least you KNOW they are seated....lol
I don't think any instruction on any kind of retrofit kit are any good. I think there must be some kind of law or something, maybe its even part of the ISO9000 standards or something saying that you must not provide clear and concise instruction with diagrams and pics for any part for any reason.
If I remember right my ECI basic kit came with a single 8x10 page with several steps listed. No diagrams, no pics, no help at all
Glad it turned out well for you after all, it will be worth it in the end.
Bobby
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 520
Likes: 0
From: Wellington, CO
Also for 1949 f1, I would take the opportunity to drill & tap the spindles to relocate the upper zerk while everything is still apart. While it can be done in place, doing it on a workbench makes things much easier. Use the time now to locate a #3 (.2130) drill bit. It took me checking 5 different stores before I came across one.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 520
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From: Wellington, CO
Originally Posted by 1949f1
i haven't heard that you need to move the zerk,were do you move it too.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,717
Likes: 506
From: clinton,tn
Originally Posted by Goobzilla
Most of the kits require you to move the upper spindle zerk back about 45 degrees for proper clearance. Drill & tap the new hole and plug the existing hole with a 1/4"-28 set screw.