Changed pump assembly today , both ends of hose broken plastic keepers . Ford wants $375 to order .

Ford 4L3Z-9J280-CD

Pipe - Fuel2004-2005 Ford F-150 4L3Z9J280CD

discontinued part online.
Approx 6 foot long plastic line with many formed spots on it . Found 2 foot parts at napa , had to buy 3 parts approx 2 foot each with barbs . Tank end 3/8 90 degree , filter 5/16 straight , plastic line attached to each fitting supplied with barbs -metal . Boiling water 10 minutes to soften still hard to get on barbs . Measured old lines carefully cant be short or too long . Bitch of a job but it worked
If I can i will take pics of napa packages with numbers . Dont try to form this plastic hose , we did and it failed and kinked .
Forget trying to cut bed to change this , pulling bed will not work either to many beams . Hose to filter neck vent is short , we cut it 4 inches from connector on fuel assembly and barbed and clamped it back . This job was a bear, getting the metal turn bracket to hold pump in that is spring loaded with a new oring was tough , had to use grease to hold oring and on metal lips to get it to start beating ring clockwise.
The rubber to metal fill pipe is a bear to get a very small wrench on ,once you manage to get it started on . Rear tires were jacked up 10 inches off surface .
I used a delphi pump asembly at $209 , oem $362 way too expensive . Not thrilled with dephfi - borg warner .
No leaks started right up , should have pumped the 1/4 tank out as it was way too heavy too work with . Took 2 of us 7 hours including parts runs - its a bear . I am sure a shop bill would have been $1500. My cost was over $500 .

 

I will add more as I recover . When front of tank tilted down reach in and cut the short vent hose on top of pump assb. avoid trying to pull plastic fitting off under truck they are too hard to release in tight spaces I think the vent hose release is green but very hard to release by pushing green tab in, save it for when tank is out from under truck . release fuel line at fuel filter first . I think you will have to release the two evap connectors which have yellow release tabs by pushing them in , this harness allows you to bring the tank down farther before trying to release .You will have to release the pressure sensor wire attached also. But the pump power plug is does not allow it to drop much so you have to find the red sliding lock on the side and pull it towards rear of truck , then you have to still find the other release to pull it off , too much tension on wires is not helpful .
The blue tab release is the fuel line and has a very fragile double lock blue keeper , this line is the one that costs a lot and is discontinued. It has nylon tube that will kink if you move it wrong . Its six foot long approx and is formed to stay clear of tank electrical plug and to fit in channel of tank to go to fuel filter . You cant find these exact fittings with double lock . We did find fittings that would work at napa . The tank barb is 3/8 inch - 90 degrees , the fuel filter end is 5/16 straight . They come with about 2 feet of nylon on each plus barbs in package . Then a package 2 feet of straight nylon with barbs . you must get the length very close to what you need maybe a half inch more.
You must use boiling water to get barbs in , it is not easy, do not use a heat gun no need for any clamps either.
We cleaned the tank channel and epoxied cable pads in 4 places to zip tie the line in the channel carefully . Do not try heat forming nylon it will kink - we failed trying to get a turn to clear power plug . You just have to lift nlyon up by plug to get it connected- carefully .
I realize the end at the filter gets broken first changing filter, but I don't think you can change out that end without removing the whole six foot run . You must boil water around the barb ends for ten minutes and its still tough going to seat it . 6 foot is just the approx length we were very careful not to end up short or too long - a little long may be okay . but you don't want to have it kink on you .
These napa fittings are push in to release no double lock like factory .
I further intend to make a hand drawing of fittings to help you to see how to release the double locked ones as they are easy to break . The power plug can be difficult also .
I hope this is my last fuel pump job ,at 77 it kicked my butt and there were two of us in a nice shop building.
I am also thinking we should have moved drive shaft to the side. There is a good you tube on tank removal .

 

I took the bed off.......... took the hoses off from the top........ then dropped the tank 6 inches to pull the pump out, from the top.....YEA, the rear wall of the truck is over the top of the pump, but getting the hoses off is easier from the top.

 

Have not needed to do the pump on my '07 Scab, but ... was maybe 10 or so years ago smelled gas and stopped at a gas station / deli for coffee on start of a trip, fuel was dripping off the frame under rear cab. Turned back home, changed vehs and parked the truck in the yard. Later, I parked the truck over a low dip so I could get under it better, setting on the ground, head up between gas tank and driveshaft ... a foot plus long section of vapor return line was chewed up, ripped open ... and the critter had also just nicked the high pressure line in one spot, just enough that it bled off pressure. Likely he got a mouthful? I priced lines, recall was near $200 then if ordered. I removed the lines, was able to blend in some copper, I forget how exactly I did it, but I armored the lines too.

On another car, a rodent chewed the plastic at the fuel filter and I needed to insert a barbed fitting in the plastic pipe end. I took a block of oak, drilled a hole through it that was the exact same size as the plastic,then I drilled a couple holes crassways missing that hole for the plastic. I then run the block through my narrow band saw and now I have a block that uses two bolts / nuts to clamp on the plastic,and it holds the plastic straight, and because of the little bit removed by the band saw, it grips the plastic securely, makes a great holder to hold in hand to press the plastic after heating the end in boiled water. They sell a tool for the job too.

 

I have found more fittings online and a kit that will press fittings on to the barbs its quite expensive but still better than fords price of $375 for a new line that may be discontinued . , They use a heat gun fixed pointing up at fitting and press . I have researched some barbs for sale that are too small for 5/16 line and comments about them leaking ,so beware of small barbs .
I guess you could use a heat gun to replace the fitting at the filter end but that seems dangerous with fuel vapor .
I'm glad steve posted that he was able to remove bed on his crew to release connectors then drop tank 6 inches to get pump out . Its a long spring loaded pump and difficult to get ring off or back on so I would still pull tank but pump every bit of fuel out of it , that 1/4 of a tank I had was too heavy to handle . Even for two guys ,that tank is long and bulky. Do yourself a favor and pull the drive shaft bolts on the rear and swing it out of the way .
This video has some ideas Wal mart has this press tool to help press heated ends on barbs . https://www.walmart.com/ip/Dorman-80...from=topicPage $97.00

At amazon they have a whole kit for $195 With video instruction
At advance auto they have the plastic 5/16 union For around $11.00 https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...source=certona
I will send more as I gather my repair stuff up on making my own 6 foot hose .

 

my repair from tank to filter using napa parts . Used napa straight connector at filter it is 5/16 stud , used 90 degree at pump ***. it is 3/8 stub . Line i between had 3/8 nylon on fitting appox 18 inch's long , 3/8 barbs came with them . used another 3/8 nylon line in between to make it long enough . Yes old line was 5/16 nylon so this rig is better for flow .

I'm sure we spent close to $100 rigging this , I think we had to go to a second napa store to get another 18 inch straight piece. We used hot water but it was very tough to fix . I think a hairdryer would be better . A heat gun could ruin it quickly so be careful they are expensive pieces.
My old one was kinked and both ends had bad plastic releases. This is a an area rats like to nest on top of tank .

 

My repair changed my line for the better it is 3/8 nylon so that helps with the reduction of barb openings . However the ford hose is 5/16 nylon so if you are doing a repair to factory line you will need stuff for 5/16 hose. I can see a need for the repair at the fuel filter as that has to be messed with more frequently . I think I would try the plastic union first as the gasoline is dangerous to try and heat hose .