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Hey guys, I’ve got an 05 6.0 with 266k, egr delete and hpop update are only mods. Recently if it’s below 75f outside the truck is hard to start cold, if it’s below 65f truck will not start cold. Now once started and driving if I just let off the gas it will sometimes just stall. Cranks right back up everytime so far but I don’t feel comfortable driving it because my area is hilly and I lose brakes and steering momentarily. I thought it was an stc fitting going out in the hpop so I’ve currently got that opened up only to find it’s been replaced already. Should I go to cam position sensor next? I thought maybe a wire short but I can recreate the stall in my driveway repetitively by revving and just letting go of the gas pedal. I do not have a tuner or scanner unfortunately but I have zero check engine light
My first thought might be dummy plugs and stand pipes in the oil rails. But, you really need to find a way to monitor what is happening. Do you have a laptop or tablet? If so all you need is the appropriate cable and a relatively inexpensive app and you can do a lot of diagnostics. Hell, even a blue tooth OBD2 adapter and an app on your cell phone will help. Yeah, that exhaust leak is gnarly and won't help matters. B.
ForScan Lite on a smartphone (with a $45 OBDII adapter) is very powerful and is a thorough code reader. Even Torque Pro is very good.
Funny how some people seem to act when it is suggested to get a good scan tool. They either think that it is too expensive, or that not having one is a permanent (unachievable) condition for some reason.
THIS! The only way to know what the truck is doing or TRYING to do is to watch the data in real-time!
And make sure you fix that exhaust leak while you're in there
-jokester
Originally Posted by bismic
ForScan Lite on a smartphone (with a $45 OBDII adapter) is very powerful and is a thorough code reader. Even Torque Pro is very good.
Funny how some people seem to act when it is suggested to get a good scan tool. They either think that it is too expensive, or that not having one is a permanent (unachievable) condition for some reason.
I have ordered a new Bluetooth scanner and have torque pro on tablet for monitoring now and can use forscan on laptop if needed. Everything is put back together for now until I can buy downpipes and whatever else my scanner leads me to. What exactly do I need to be looking for? What signs point to dummy plugs? Watching ficm voltage is pretty straightforward but I'm not sure on ipr and icp what I'm looking for
As far as dummy plugs and standpipes go, you might need those updated IF you still have the old style installed in the oil rails. The only way you can know that is to remove the valve covers and see what type and size of bit/tool will be needed to remove them.
Ok, you got codes. Cool. Keep that list written down somewhere and now clear them all. You want to see if they return in a relatively short time period. The glow plug faults could contribute to slightly longer crank to start times, more so in cold weather. Diesels are compression-ignition engines so they need heat to fire the fuel. Glow plugs aid in that process.
It's very possible you have a chaffed/shorted/broken wire in your cam position sensor wiring. Give the harness a VERY good visual/tactile inspection for anything obviously wrong.
Now, did you get any data yet that Bismic listed for you to check? If not, can you get that and post it up? B.
Okay so Bluetooth adapter I got sucks and doesn't stay connected so no live data for now. I. Going to order a much better one next week. Anyways, I decided to go ahead and check out the cps and here's what I found. The two wires are completely bare and were twisted around each other so definitely causing issues and the actual cps was really bent I'm not sure if it's supposed to be like that but I'm replacing anyhow. Removal of the cps was pretty easy once I removed battery tray and one wire bundle in the way
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