Under cab lights
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Joined: Nov 2003
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mikewrt,
My 99 has a timer built into it to shut of the dome light if the door is left open or switch is left on. I think the timer is 20 minutes. Works great never had a dead battery.
Bowcop, hang10,
Here is a diagram I put together this morning. I hope it helps. It shows the diagram for the relay I used. You can get them at any parts store.
I can email you the full sized version. I had to shrink it to get on the site.
Matthew
My 99 has a timer built into it to shut of the dome light if the door is left open or switch is left on. I think the timer is 20 minutes. Works great never had a dead battery.
Bowcop, hang10,
Here is a diagram I put together this morning. I hope it helps. It shows the diagram for the relay I used. You can get them at any parts store.
I can email you the full sized version. I had to shrink it to get on the site.
Matthew
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well, it won't let me post my email address. I could subvert that pretty easy and write it out. However, I don't want to violate too many rules. I looked in your gallery, pulled the diagram from there but when it's enlarged for viewing, it is unreadable and blurred.
Last edited by hang10; Nov 22, 2003 at 12:22 PM.
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From: Eielson AFB, AK
The '03's have a built in timer too. IIRC, the owners manual says that it shuts everything off at the 10 minute mark. Also, I believe that you can change it to something shorter if you wish too. It's all in the OM though....
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From: Blaine Wa
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I didn't do this yet, I had problems getting all the parts together. However, I think I got it. After squinting at the diagram long enough. In the diagram, red #30 to the new relay/from the relay in the cab. Yellow #87 is power to the lights. Blk # 85 is ground and red is pwr from 12V fused.
The only thing that has me confused are the two reds. There is one running from the relay in the cab, I thought that was the 12V supply. So, 12V fused is the supply, is it run direct to the battery?
The only thing that has me confused are the two reds. There is one running from the relay in the cab, I thought that was the 12V supply. So, 12V fused is the supply, is it run direct to the battery?
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From: Scottsdale, AZ
the new relay connections to power the under cab lights are:
86: goes to the existing relay in the fuse panel or to the interior domelamp wire. Just as long as this wire is energized when the interior roof lights are on.
85: goes to chassis ground or a convenient gound point.
30: goes to a fused wire from the battery + terminal
87: goes to the new undercab lamps
On a 99 - 01 F250/350 I believe the domelight is a Black/blue wire found on the fuse panel. This would conect to 86 on the new relay. I'm not positive on this wire color, use common sense and check with a test light or meter. This may also be the same color on 02s and up but I'm not sure.
86: goes to the existing relay in the fuse panel or to the interior domelamp wire. Just as long as this wire is energized when the interior roof lights are on.
85: goes to chassis ground or a convenient gound point.
30: goes to a fused wire from the battery + terminal
87: goes to the new undercab lamps
On a 99 - 01 F250/350 I believe the domelight is a Black/blue wire found on the fuse panel. This would conect to 86 on the new relay. I'm not positive on this wire color, use common sense and check with a test light or meter. This may also be the same color on 02s and up but I'm not sure.
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Yeup, that's what I thought. My computer was down, so I have been reading this forum with my Treo 600 handheld. Kinda hard to read a diagram inside a post, from a 4" screen. Thanks for the decipher.
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Brett Foote
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From: Illinois
Mike:
For those of us who are slow on the uptake, did you literally run power from the battery positive terminal or did you tap into a power source somewhere else such as the fuse box?
Also if you could post a part number or name of the relay that would be great.......make sure I get the correct type that way.
Thanks for the great info,
Jim
For those of us who are slow on the uptake, did you literally run power from the battery positive terminal or did you tap into a power source somewhere else such as the fuse box?
Also if you could post a part number or name of the relay that would be great.......make sure I get the correct type that way.
Thanks for the great info,
Jim
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From: Scottsdale, AZ
NuDog, I would run a FUSED wire directly from the battery. Because I have other mods I want to power I ran a larger wire with a 40 amp fuse to a distribution block. For your case I would just run a single wire from the battery. Most any good automotive relay should have the terminal numbers on it. Radio Shack sells a 30 amp auto relay its radio shack part number is 275-0226. I would get some quick connect terminals for the relay. Your favorite auto parts (aka napa) store should also have relays. Online is the cheapest place to get such auto relays.
hang10, hope this mod goes all well for you. lets see some more pics of this mod.
What lights are you guys using for this mod? I'm not sure which lamps I want to use?
hang10, hope this mod goes all well for you. lets see some more pics of this mod.
What lights are you guys using for this mod? I'm not sure which lamps I want to use?
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From: Blaine Wa
I thought of another question. Is there a way to tap into this power source without messing around with the fuse/relay box? I was wondering if you could tap into the wire under the hood at that "power" box in front of the brake master cyclinder. Such as this gentleman did:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/framered...6322dmuRYyzkmL
https://www.ford-trucks.com/framered...6322dmuRYyzkmL
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From: Scottsdale, AZ
You could, the only reason you may not is if you feel your electrical skills aren't quite up to it. You will have to splice into the line. I was trying to make this as simple as possible (aka running a fused wire from the battery.) The only other issue you would want to check with hooking into another line would be: Can the circuit I'm hooking into handle additional the current draw of these lamps? An ideal situation would be to run the wire from the under cab lamps directly to the wire that feeds the interior dome lights but again its a current draw issue. I'm not trying to insult any ones smarts but some are happier playing with electrical than others and I was trying to explain the simplest and safest method for the existing wiring in your trucks. I wouldn't want any one to start blowing fuses or melting circuit.
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From: Scottsdale, AZ
If I were you I would run a single fused line from the battery to your relay that you mount under the hood. If you feel that you can safely make the connection under the hood to the control wire then do it as this will save you from having to put a wire through the firewall. But if you don't think you can get your hands down in there then hook up inside the cab. I think that the in cab hook up, while both will be a bit tight, might be a tad bit easier as you might have more room to connect away from connectors, harnesses and other wires. Unless you must please don't use those quick connect things, make good soild and durable splices using a soldering iron and then heat shrink or tape them well. You will thank your self in the end, looks better and more professional. This is my opinion, let me know how you decided to do this.
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From: Scottsdale, AZ
one more thing, if you have to leave the door open or lights on to do this, be sure after you have spliced the trigger wire not to touch it to ground or you will blow fuses or melt wires. Just another pain to ruin you moding fun.