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Old Nov 20, 2003 | 10:30 PM
  #16  
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SouthernDually
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From: Oxford, Alabama
Thumbs up Thanks

how long did it take you to get everything wired and mounted? I like the way you directed them. Nice work.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2003 | 11:03 PM
  #17  
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mbullard
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I really dont remember the time frame. I am thinking it took about 2 hours. The wiring took the longest, trying to find a good place to run the wires. email me or post if you have any questions.

Matthew
 
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Old Nov 20, 2003 | 11:04 PM
  #18  
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Just saw them, looks good. What part of MO are you in? My reason for asking is, were you able to get parts locally, or did Grote have to ship to you?
 

Last edited by hang10; Nov 20, 2003 at 11:08 PM.
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Old Nov 20, 2003 | 11:25 PM
  #19  
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I got the parts at a nearby Kenworth dealer. Any truck stop or commercial truck parts counter should have them in stock. I would love to see pics of other intalls and products used other than mine. I used the Grote clear lenses because if they burn out or get broken they are fairly cheap to replace.

Matthew
 
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Old Nov 20, 2003 | 11:44 PM
  #20  
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That's what I'm after, cheap to replace. I want something fairly inexpensive and functional. Looks like you have both.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2003 | 06:34 PM
  #21  
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Rugby3
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From: Farms of Duplin County
Very nice job, makes me want to stop working on the house and do this mod this weekend.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2003 | 07:33 PM
  #22  
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I am going to try and do it tomorrow. I found the lights, with gromets and brackets for about $7.00 each. I'd like a little more info on the proceedure first. I don't do a lot of automotive wiring, so I don't understand the concept of wiring a relay to a relay. Plus you have 4 lights, where do you splice the + legs together? Where do the wires enter the cab? Call me stupid, that's okay. Rather that than a mistake.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2003 | 10:15 PM
  #23  
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mbullard
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Wiring a relay to a relay is really no different than just wiring a relay. All you have to do find the terminal on the trucks relay that is powered when the lights are on. Then wrap a wire around the terminal on the factory relay and reinsert. Remember to fuse the new circut here. The wire you just installed will be the activation wire for your new relay. Take a good sized fused wire such as a 12 ga. wire from battery to the relay. (Wiring diagrams are on the relays) Then ground the relay... very important it wont work with out ground. (Keep in mind I ran the wire from the fuse box out of the hole in firewall where the clutch is supposed to be. I have an auto. I did all the relay wiring in the engine compartment.) Run the wire down the frame to each light. You can wire them in series having one wire go to pass side and one wire going to drivers side and connect them to the 12 ga. from the new relay. Ground each light and open the door or hit the key fob. You should have light.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2003 | 10:29 PM
  #24  
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From: Blaine Wa
Matthew,

I am wondering............. why have the second relay at all? What would happen if I just connect the lights to the relay in the fuse box with an in line fused wire. Would this not work? I understand your last post as to how you did the wiring, I am just not sure why the second relay is needed. Thanks!
 
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Old Nov 21, 2003 | 10:48 PM
  #25  
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Kind of my point. I understand fusing the (+) leg of course. What is the purpose of the relay to relay connection? Mind you, I am not asking because I think it wrong, I just don't have the experience with DC, or automotive wiring to understand that concept.

I would think: In series, all (+) to a fused link, then fused link to source, (ie) the relay you mention. (-) to ground. Done. Appreciate your help in this.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2003 | 11:14 PM
  #26  
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From: Eielson AFB, AK
This thread is Rockin'! Keep the ideas and suggestions for install guys! Seems like everytime I get the chance to come back and read this thread, someone comes up with a way to do this easier and cheaper!! Loving it!~!!!
 
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Old Nov 21, 2003 | 11:44 PM
  #27  
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mbullard
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The reason for the second relay is, I did not wan to draw amps from the trucks wiring harness and risk damage. I am only using it to control my own circuit I created. The circuit I created for the lamps is stand alone. No different than say, installing a CB. Other than getting a control for the relay, the undercab lights are their own circuit. I hope this may clear things up. I feel better not drawing amps from the truck where is was not designed.

Matthew

Very good questions, I am glad everyone is so interested.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2003 | 12:22 AM
  #28  
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What relay did you use? You may have said in your parts list, I just haven't looked again. Obviously, the parts houses have hundreds. Thanks.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2003 | 03:20 AM
  #29  
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Bowcop
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From: Blaine Wa
Matthew,

Thanks for the previous info. In addition to the type of relay you used would you be willing to post a diagram of the wiring schematic that you used. I think that would really help some folks, especially me!!!!!!!
 
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Old Nov 22, 2003 | 11:21 AM
  #30  
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mikewrt
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From: Scottsdale, AZ
Does the newer F250/350s have a protection circuit on them in case you leave the in cab lights on? I can see that if the door switch gets dirty and stuck in a closed position that your battery would be toast. And for those diesel folks thats 2 batteries. Why not build a simple digital timer circuit so that these lights can be on for no more than say 5 mins or what ever. This way there is built in protection, they could never stay on for more than what ever the time is set to. This could even be applied to the interior cab lights, head lights, KC lights, and the list goes on.

Seems like a good idea, and inepensive compared to the time and pain of having dead batteries or having to replace your batteries. Let me know what you think.
 
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