Long time lurker
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 4,667
Likes: 1,455
From: Muskogee, Ok
Powdered Metal Rods
Basically made by the same idea as MDF sheets of pressed sawdust vs plywood. Instead of the rod coming from a large piece of cast molten metal forged, they pressed powdered metal into the shape of the rod
As for crank walk it's just like it sounds. The crankshaft walks forwards or aft. Member SSJ ran into this issue and there's a thread on it somewhere. The fix is an engine girdle bolted between the block and oil pan. More $ and your engine builder needs to know how to install it correctly
Basically made by the same idea as MDF sheets of pressed sawdust vs plywood. Instead of the rod coming from a large piece of cast molten metal forged, they pressed powdered metal into the shape of the rod
As for crank walk it's just like it sounds. The crankshaft walks forwards or aft. Member SSJ ran into this issue and there's a thread on it somewhere. The fix is an engine girdle bolted between the block and oil pan. More $ and your engine builder needs to know how to install it correctly
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 41
Likes: 1
From: Gig Harbor, WA.
Powdered Metal Rods
Basically made by the same idea as MDF sheets of pressed sawdust vs plywood. Instead of the rod coming from a large piece of cast molten metal forged, they pressed powdered metal into the shape of the rod
As for crank walk it's just like it sounds. The crankshaft walks forwards or aft. Member SSJ ran into this issue and there's a thread on it somewhere. The fix is an engine girdle bolted between the block and oil pan. More $ and your engine builder needs to know how to install it correctly
Basically made by the same idea as MDF sheets of pressed sawdust vs plywood. Instead of the rod coming from a large piece of cast molten metal forged, they pressed powdered metal into the shape of the rod
As for crank walk it's just like it sounds. The crankshaft walks forwards or aft. Member SSJ ran into this issue and there's a thread on it somewhere. The fix is an engine girdle bolted between the block and oil pan. More $ and your engine builder needs to know how to install it correctly
Was this meant to be an attention getter, you got mime and it has made me think perhaps this is a lot more involved than I thought.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 3,196
Likes: 1,698
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 41
Likes: 1
From: Gig Harbor, WA.
I tow so there is that, but I still would like to be to turn it up, make bad decisions and smile
Banned
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 3,541
Likes: 458
I'm going to take a contrarian stance and say don't bother with that rabbit hole if you want to continue your happy and trouble-free relationship with the truck. A set of stock remans from Bitterroot will make it run like an entirely new truck again as far as power and MPG, so it will feel like an upgrade without breaking the bank or having to worry about whether it's tuned right.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 2,442
Likes: 993
Simply upgrading the turbo to something that can support the 300-320hp the stock injectors can produce is simple and makes more usable power than the stock gtp38. At those power levels it is fun and reliable.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,332
Likes: 442
From: Eastern Washington
+1 for Bitterroot Injectors, drop a couple extra bucks and get new Aliants and have him balance them.
I think you'll be real happy with some 160/30 and a KC stage 1 along with a new hydra and some fresh tunes.
I think you'll be real happy with some 160/30 and a KC stage 1 along with a new hydra and some fresh tunes.
It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 7,812
Likes: 1,335
From: Elk Grove, CA
Agree with above, mild injector and turbo upgrades with corresponding tunes are best. Solid bump in power w/o compromising longevity.
I like your list:
Injectors
HPOP and lines
Rebuild fuel bowl and new lines
Water pump
Radiator Hoses
Main Engine Wire Harness
Except for Main engine harness. Unless the OEM is compromised leave it alone.
Throw in an FRx.
Get the Gates 22433 IIRC around the serpentine belt hose.
For the fuel lines I like the Riff Raff hoses to replace the hard lines. Never tried them. My recommendation is mostly to avoid the common failure at the passenger side fuel line clamp.
I like your list:
Injectors
HPOP and lines
Rebuild fuel bowl and new lines
Water pump
Radiator Hoses
Main Engine Wire Harness
Except for Main engine harness. Unless the OEM is compromised leave it alone.
Throw in an FRx.
Get the Gates 22433 IIRC around the serpentine belt hose.
For the fuel lines I like the Riff Raff hoses to replace the hard lines. Never tried them. My recommendation is mostly to avoid the common failure at the passenger side fuel line clamp.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,647
Likes: 891
From: north of Minneapolis, MN
I'd agree about not looking to replace the engine main harness....but, inspect the underside of the drivers side harness where it rubs on the valve cover...or can rub on the valve cover.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 41
Likes: 1
From: Gig Harbor, WA.
Resistance at 42 pin to injector 8 is 15ohms, and injector 5 is 9ohms.
Resistance at UVCH on all 8 injectors is 3ohms.
This lead me to the main harness. Would my thinking be off with that?
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,352
Likes: 5,946
From: Lake Hartwell, GA
Based on your question, I would ask another question... What is the acceptable resistance reading of the circuit leg from the 42 pin connector to the injector?
I'm not saying your wrong, I'm just attempting to bring your decision into the scope of needs or wants.
I'm not saying your wrong, I'm just attempting to bring your decision into the scope of needs or wants.
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 41
Likes: 1
From: Gig Harbor, WA.
hmmm. I would guess 3-5 ohms