I'd start with BDP 160/30's, KC stage 1 and Hydra with custom tuning. It won't be close to a 6.7 but will add some smiles per mile.

When your pump dies we can add a T500. When your transmission dies we can add a built transmission.

You could go larger on injectors and detune till the future mods if you wanted.

 

What if i did the T500 and injectors at same time?
I like the smile statement
I have a manual trans what is a built one I have heard of a built automatic.

 

Although my 160/30 are not from BDP, I like the performance of that injector.

 

Dan V
like 65 and the cruise set happy? No matter the road

 

I pull a 28ft GN Living Quarters horse trailer. 3 horses, 3 dogs, and all the gear a woman can pack in there...like 20k combined. Have I lacked for power? Not in my opinion. You can put some dead dinosaurs through there though. Power takes fuel. I see maybe 12mpg most of the time....but if trying to run 65mph in to a 40mph headwind..I can see 7mpg.

 

Dan V
sounds good, pull a 3 horse non living quarters with 4 foot short wall. Maybe 8-10 k loaded varies with horses.
I am not concerned about fuel consumption if it works properly and pulls what i need to within reason

 

160/30, Hydra (w/good tuning), and maybe a KC Turbo balanced assembly for the OEM turbo

And then

Whip it....whip it good.

 

You could do the T500 for PM or wait until it dies. More power will take a more expensive clutch with less road majors on the ZF6.

 

I had a new south bend clutch installed around 75,000 miles ago.
I am assuming based on the power would determine the power level.
Seems like my assumptions are correct. One thing leads to another.

 

Do you already have an EGT and fuel pressure gauges?

10k shouldn't need more than stock size 140s and the KC sxe drop in turbine and riff raff 4+4 wheel, at least I didn't. Once I crossed above about 11.5k I needed traction bars, Helwig sway bars, airbags. When I did injectors I went with Rosewood 160/0 and eventually a T4. Even @ 13k stock 140/0 and that previous turbo setup was plenty for me to poke along with, still passed semis, Chevies & Dodges up grades, but with 160s there's a little more power that I rarely "use".

Towing @ 62-65mph i didn't really need more power than stock injectors provided with good tunes. If you want to tow @ 75 or 80 like the dumb owners of newer trucks do you'll need more power, and better trailer tires than I've seen them using...

 

I feel offended. 😂

 

Surely I'm not the only one that's noticed the trend of being passed by the bowtie or horned goat badged trucks flying by @ 80+ mph on the flat or downhill sections with a 35 to 42ft travel trailer in tow with some bad rear end squat going on, usually with some seesaw action, with the trailer tires bulging, which indicates either improper inflation, too low of load ranged tires, or unlevel or poor weight loading heating up the sidewalls.

Then when it's time for the grades they lose speed forcing me to get into the left lane to pass their dumb buts @ 65mph. So that once we crest the hill they can fly past everyone who maintains the same speed going down as we do going up



Usually when a Ford passes me it's a one time thing cause they don't lose speed on the hills, or they have trailers that look under control and properly taken care of



That and I'm a cheapskate. Get my best mpg @ 62-65
Drop 1 full mpg per 5mph over that.


Just cause we can lay down more POWah with injectors and turbos doesn't mean our brakes magically improved with those speed gains. The new truck's with bigger better brakes and true exhaust brakes make towing faster safer for them than we can pretend to tell ourselves we are. If you've ever towed here in the Ozarks down a long 7 or 8% grade with 13k# on your tail 65mph is about all I feel our brakes could successfully do a panic stop on




​​​​​​​

 

I have exhaust, boost gauges
Looking to see what i can do with the truck, I want to have power on tap, not have to use it but there is I want it

 

For power on tap you'll want single shots. How much power on tap will decide your injector and nozzle sizes

Even 160/0 will give you unused power on tap towing 10k. For power numbers that get up closer to the new 6.7s you'll have to go with 205/80+ or 238/80 or so, but then you get into issues with crank walk and PMR rods around 400hp and engine crank girdles, valve springs, head studs, higher HP rated and grabby clutches, and turbos that clean up that amount of fuel

 

What si crank walk? I am assuming PMR Rods are push rods, waht si PMR?
Crank girddle?
I do not mind the extra work, you can adjust power with a hydra and tunes so it would not be set all the time.feom my understanding, yeah