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Always just "power timed" my rig w/ 292 V8 (1964) with no problem, if I remember right the vibration absorber might have slipped (laterally and a bit of wobble) and horked the index marks? Does that sound right?
Trying to clean that up before a road trip, runs great at 50 -65 ish but around 80 to 90 mph start getting some belt slippage I think,(Screeeeeeeeeeechh) but I want to get the vibration absorber dead on, it's drilled of course for weight and saving wear and tear on the crank and other parts. No, I don't normally drive at 90 mph but it bugs me. Drives like a cadillac other than that. Poking around town it won't hurt anything, but at highway speeds...
I'm thinking if I can true it out and then JB-weld the outer, vibration part to the inner part. I need to zero it to the timing marks though, or am I just better off biting the bullet and replacing it?
That has happened to mine as well. It even walked it's way back and started to rub the front motor mount. They are hard to find I had to get one off an old engine that was laying the woods. You can have them rebuilt.
That is a common problem when the rubber seperates allowing the two sections to rotate independently.
Rebuilds are around $100 so you might want to check around first.
Hm, anyone got a part # for that? I might have an extra but I doubt it. Getting hard to find? Removal should be no problem w/ a puller but I hate getting into stuff like that with hard-to-find parts.
I know your problem. I too had the damper ring come off the pulley and work its way back until it began rubbing on the front motor mount. I found a company in New York called Job Lot Automotive Inc. They sell the pully/dampers for about $70, granted it was made in Venezuela. This company had a lot of NOS stuff for my '56 F350. The web address is www.joblotauto.com.
After I put my new damper assembly on, I scribed two lines on the crank pulley that match up at TDC and 10 degree advanced so I can tell quickly in the future if the damper is beginning to slip. Hopefully this helps. Good Luck!