problems after carrier bearing replacement, HELP!
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 121
Likes: 2
From: Osnabrock, nd
problems after carrier bearing replacement, HELP!
So here is the story, I have been chasing a clunk upon take off and stopping in my truck for a while now.
its a 2000 4 door 4x4 v10 auto super duty lariat.
anyway back on topic
I found I could take the drive shaft and move it about 1/2 inch up when pressing under the carrier bearing. so I decided to replace the carrier bearing and grease the slip yolk after the bearing.
I marked the orientation of the u joint right behind the carrier and took it apart. I removed the front section of the drive line and removed the worn out carrier bearing installed the new one and reinstalled in truck. I then took the front band off the slip yolk and greased it up and reinstalled the whole thing.
test drive. The clunk is gone completely. smooth take off and stops. but this morning when driving to work I have a vibration that comes on about 50 mph up to 70 then feels like it goes away. I thought well maybe I got the u joint 180 deg off so I swaped it tonight. Wow that made the vibration 100 times worse. So I swaped it back and checked everything. I then read a post about the carrier bearing having some left to right play in the mount so I shoved the carrier bearing all the way to the passenger side and test drove. the vibes are almost gone but still there at 55 mph to about 60 then goes away.
what gives here. I also put a couple washers on the top of the bearing and moved it downward a bit. this kinda made it a bit less still but its still there.
what could this be.
My truck is not lifted or anything. all the yolks are in phase like they should be. I am beginning to think that this vibration was there all along and the worn out carrier bearing was absorbing it but that also doesn't make sense
Could it be just a design flaw in the bearing I got from napa?
They offer three versions, one is 25 bucks, the other is 119 and then 129. The only difference I could see is the highest price has a metal dust shield included. the 119 did not but looked exactly like the others and the counter guy said the cheap one is made in china. well I looked at the china one and the rubber said made in china but the bearing said Timken on it. So I went with the 25 dollar one.
please help, it seems when I fix one problem with this truck another pops up
its a 2000 4 door 4x4 v10 auto super duty lariat.
anyway back on topic
I found I could take the drive shaft and move it about 1/2 inch up when pressing under the carrier bearing. so I decided to replace the carrier bearing and grease the slip yolk after the bearing.
I marked the orientation of the u joint right behind the carrier and took it apart. I removed the front section of the drive line and removed the worn out carrier bearing installed the new one and reinstalled in truck. I then took the front band off the slip yolk and greased it up and reinstalled the whole thing.
test drive. The clunk is gone completely. smooth take off and stops. but this morning when driving to work I have a vibration that comes on about 50 mph up to 70 then feels like it goes away. I thought well maybe I got the u joint 180 deg off so I swaped it tonight. Wow that made the vibration 100 times worse. So I swaped it back and checked everything. I then read a post about the carrier bearing having some left to right play in the mount so I shoved the carrier bearing all the way to the passenger side and test drove. the vibes are almost gone but still there at 55 mph to about 60 then goes away.
what gives here. I also put a couple washers on the top of the bearing and moved it downward a bit. this kinda made it a bit less still but its still there.
what could this be.
My truck is not lifted or anything. all the yolks are in phase like they should be. I am beginning to think that this vibration was there all along and the worn out carrier bearing was absorbing it but that also doesn't make sense
Could it be just a design flaw in the bearing I got from napa?
They offer three versions, one is 25 bucks, the other is 119 and then 129. The only difference I could see is the highest price has a metal dust shield included. the 119 did not but looked exactly like the others and the counter guy said the cheap one is made in china. well I looked at the china one and the rubber said made in china but the bearing said Timken on it. So I went with the 25 dollar one.
please help, it seems when I fix one problem with this truck another pops up
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 6,748
Likes: 118
From: Tallassee, ALabama
Just replacing the bearing is not the cure sometimes. You should replace the bearing and race so you eliminate any possible defects with the previous bearing and associated race. You also need to check the internal pinion bearing and race to insure they are ok. Also make sure the bearing race seat in the housing has not wallowed out the housing.
Also, did you replace the crush sleeve/spacer between the internal pinion bearing and the external pinion bearing? This crush sleeve/spacer takes well over 150 ft/lbs or torque to start it to crush to set the bearing preload. Once you start the process, you need to check the rotational torque of the pinion to make sure it is "snug" but not too tight and difficult to turn.
Also, did you replace the crush sleeve/spacer between the internal pinion bearing and the external pinion bearing? This crush sleeve/spacer takes well over 150 ft/lbs or torque to start it to crush to set the bearing preload. Once you start the process, you need to check the rotational torque of the pinion to make sure it is "snug" but not too tight and difficult to turn.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 819
Likes: 3
From: Putnam Valley, New York
Just replacing the bearing is not the cure sometimes. You should replace the bearing and race so you eliminate any possible defects with the previous bearing and associated race. You also need to check the internal pinion bearing and race to insure they are ok. Also make sure the bearing race seat in the housing has not wallowed out the housing.
Also, did you replace the crush sleeve/spacer between the internal pinion bearing and the external pinion bearing? This crush sleeve/spacer takes well over 150 ft/lbs or torque to start it to crush to set the bearing preload. Once you start the process, you need to check the rotational torque of the pinion to make sure it is "snug" but not too tight and difficult to turn.
Also, did you replace the crush sleeve/spacer between the internal pinion bearing and the external pinion bearing? This crush sleeve/spacer takes well over 150 ft/lbs or torque to start it to crush to set the bearing preload. Once you start the process, you need to check the rotational torque of the pinion to make sure it is "snug" but not too tight and difficult to turn.
He replaced the driveshaft center support bearing, not the pinion bearing.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 121
Likes: 2
From: Osnabrock, nd
so I have tried everything, the rear section is "phazed correctly" the front section is correct, everything is tight and i still have the vibration at 60-70 then it kinda goes away.
So I purchased a new bearing from ford today (65 buck, wonder why its cheaper than napa's off brand) but this new ford part comes with a piece that I have never seen before. It looks like a bearing race that has been rounded over on one end. It also comes with the dust shield for the forward axle section.
anyone have an idea as to what this is. Could it just be a tool to press the bearing on with?
let me know
So I purchased a new bearing from ford today (65 buck, wonder why its cheaper than napa's off brand) but this new ford part comes with a piece that I have never seen before. It looks like a bearing race that has been rounded over on one end. It also comes with the dust shield for the forward axle section.
anyone have an idea as to what this is. Could it just be a tool to press the bearing on with?
let me know
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Couple things - the d/s could be bent, if you can't get the vibration level down. You do any offroading (unintentionally or not) slammed a boulder or anything like that? Also check to see that balance weights, if any haven't turned up missing.
If the shaft isn't bent can try installing a pair of worm-screw hose clamps 90 deg. apart and experiment with those in different positions/configurations. Worse comes to worst, take it to a driveline shop and have them spool it up find out what the deal is. Can also be u-joints contributing, even shocks, wheel and tire, etc.
When you finally get it straightened out you're gonna love it - i once had an old POS _____ that shook like a washing machine as soon as it hit about 45 or 50. Thought it was gonna shake itself to pieces. Carrier bearing repl made the most improvement but all of it factored in. When everything was done it was smooth!
If the shaft isn't bent can try installing a pair of worm-screw hose clamps 90 deg. apart and experiment with those in different positions/configurations. Worse comes to worst, take it to a driveline shop and have them spool it up find out what the deal is. Can also be u-joints contributing, even shocks, wheel and tire, etc.
When you finally get it straightened out you're gonna love it - i once had an old POS _____ that shook like a washing machine as soon as it hit about 45 or 50. Thought it was gonna shake itself to pieces. Carrier bearing repl made the most improvement but all of it factored in. When everything was done it was smooth!
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