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Cool! I guess that's why everyone has their own opinion. Appreciate the offer but I don't need your used pads, it was awful nice of you to offer though.
Too bad you are on the other side of the country, id meet up with you and take those used parts. I replace good parts prematurely on a fleet schedule for my trucks that run interstate or 50+ miles from the yard. Fortunately, I have trucks that stay intrastate and use up all the good used parts from the interstate trucks. Just personal but I love seeing something live out close to its full service life and like others are shedding a tear for those brake pads and shocks.
Denny I'm in the same boat for rotors never turned one and other than one replaced that warped on my 88 so changed the fronts.
@kry226 Mileage is why. Brake pads are cheap at $75 for front and rear at 92k miles, that is a steal for preventative maintenance. If you're going to regrease the slide pins which should be part of maintenance why not change the shoes at those miles, especially if doing it yourself.
Oh, I absolutely get that. If you're tearing it down anyway, I fully believe you might as well replace everything while you're in there. We had a 2004 4Runner V8 that was the best vehicle we ever owned. The only issue is that it required a new timing belt every 90k. When I did that, I also R&Rd the water pump too. It just made sense.
And to be transparent, I don't often wait until the pads' metal tab starts rubbing on the rotor, I just try to make the best balance between performance and mileage. On my 04 Ram 2500 Cummins, I think I R&Rd the brakes for the first time at about 120k (but the truck was also 10 years old). The rotors were also perfect, so I just replaced the pads. For most of the wife's vehicles, the rotors are typically warped and ready for replacement way before the pads are done.
I will post the results good or bad from the oil analysis when I get it back.
These have been the oil changes_ oil filter (MC 820s), 8 quarts oil (MC 5w30 semi synthetic).
8,284 odometer
17,983 odometer (9,699 miles)
26,211 odometer (8,228 miles)
34,965 odometer (8,754 miles)
43,284 odometer (8,319 miles)
51,762 odometer (8,478 miles) Oil life still showed 15% on the display
60,607 odometer (8,845 miles) 12%
68,291 odometer (7,684 miles) 23%
78,141 odometer (9,850 miles) 0%
84,370 odometer (6,229 miles) 38%
Just for reference to put the oil change info with Blackstone oil report. I have not added any oil at anytime after doing an oil change with 8 quarts of MC 5w30 and MC 820s oil filfter. It looks like the 8-9k mile oil changes aren't killing the engine. 87 octane is the gas used.
They’re comments are positive but what’s up with the higher than average magnesium, phosphorus, and zinc levels?
I guess those aren’t a concern?
Those are additives in the oil. Magnesium is to neutralize acid and phosphorus and zinc (ZDDP) is a anti wear additive and are in line with API SP.
The one item that is right at the threshold is the flashpoint that is right at the universal average and would like to see ~420F, but wear metals look outstanding (Iron, Lead, Tin, Aluminum, Copper)
Those are additives in the oil. Magnesium is to neutralize acid and phosphorus and zinc (ZDDP) is a anti wear additive and are in line with API SP.
The one item that is right at the threshold is the flashpoint that is right at the universal average and would like to see ~420F, but wear metals look outstanding (Iron, Lead, Tin, Aluminum, Copper)
I was thinking about the flashpoint comment so looked a few different sites about it but this is from Blackstone site. 385 in a gas engine seems to be fine.
"We use the flashpoint test to determine how much fuel dilution is present in your oil. Technically speaking, the flashpoint is the lowest temperature at which a liquid will generate sufficient vapor to flash (ignite) when exposed to a source of ignition or fire. In other words, at what temperature do the vapors coming off your oil catch fire? For most gasoline oil samples, it’s around 380°F. For most diesel samples, it’s about 410°F."
I was thinking about the flashpoint comment so looked a few different sites about it but this is from Blackstone site. 385 in a gas engine seems to be fine.
"We use the flashpoint test to determine how much fuel dilution is present in your oil. Technically speaking, the flashpoint is the lowest temperature at which a liquid will generate sufficient vapor to flash (ignite) when exposed to a source of ignition or fire. In other words, at what temperature do the vapors coming off your oil catch fire? For most gasoline oil samples, it’s around 380°F. For most diesel samples, it’s about 410°F."
Thanks for sharing. I'm wondering if DI engines is influencing this 385F number? Reason I say that is we do know that DI engines puts more gas in the oil than port injection and most gas engines are now DI.
Bottom line your UOA looks excellent and your engine is wearing really good.
94,400 miles. Changed the sparkplugs this morning and what an easy job. It took 58 minutes and I was taking pictures of the individual plugs. For me the passenger side took a little longer just because you're working by feel. I didn't use a torque wrench just snugged them tight like I always did for sparkplugs on my other vehicles.
Backed the other truck to the front of the 7.3 working off the tailgate which was perfect.
These are the only tools used. 3/8 ratchet, 2 3" extensions, 5/8 sparkplug socket, extendable magnet.
Old sparkplugs and they don't look bad at all. No problem getting them out at all.
Looking at the electrodes comparing old and new I would say it was time.
I'm going to change mine in my 6.2 this summer at 82K, I get a little rough idle at times so it will be new plugs and wires.
Spark plugs look pretty good for the mileage.
Thanks for the update.
They look really good. Even the gap looks essentially the same as the new plug. Also based on what I can see it appears theres plenty of threads in the heads.
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