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Great work you are doing there. I can speak from experience that its not easy to fix toasted vehicles after fires.
I am glad to see that you have the ambition and knowledge to fix it back up.
I have a 73 Webcraft boat with a 302 that had a minor fire, while still on the trailer, before we took to the water.
First trip out for the year, after it had sat all winter. We had just started it, letting it warm up, and as usual we were making the checks, looking for fuel and water leaks.
Carb started flooding over the top, and killed the engine. I shut the key off, and something sparked, setting it on fire.
We put it out with in seconds, but it still did some damage. We removed the engine, and fixed everything, but my confidence was never the same, and I never trusted the boat again. Today it sits in my shop, in the way, and I don't have any desire to use it, but cant bring my self to sell it.
Great work you are doing there. I can speak from experience that its not easy to fix toasted vehicles after fires.
I am glad to see that you have the ambition and knowledge to fix it back up.
I have a 73 Webcraft boat with a 302 that had a minor fire, while still on the trailer, before we took to the water.
First trip out for the year, after it had sat all winter. We had just started it, letting it warm up, and as usual we were making the checks, looking for fuel and water leaks.
Carb started flooding over the top, and killed the engine. I shut the key off, and something sparked, setting it on fire.
We put it out with in seconds, but it still did some damage. We removed the engine, and fixed everything, but my confidence was never the same, and I never trusted the boat again. Today it sits in my shop, in the way, and I don't have any desire to use it, but cant bring my self to sell it.
Keep up the good work!
Thank you for the encouragement. As for having the knowledge, I'm learning as I go. I use this forum, Google, and Youtube a lot.
I can understand trusting a vehicle. I used to have one that seemed to overheat no matter what I did to fix it. I ended up getting rid of the truck. Eventually, I'd like to get a boat to go along with the truck. What type of boat do you have? Maybe take it out for a short trip. Eventually, you could work your way up to an outing. Just a thought.
Good luck with your project. Best advice: It's a long journey so try to focus on, and enjoy every step. Before you know it you'll be looking back at those photos.
You were right. I started Blaze up (Changed from Earl) this weekend. It was very exciting to hear the old engine roar back to life. If I can shorten the video, I will get it posted.
Your start relay looks OK except for the two extra wires. What does that black wire with the blue crimp connector go to?
It's hard to see the ALT wire colors but if that is an original ford harness.
Black/white stripe= stator
White=field
Black/Yellow stripe= battery
Black/red stripe=ground
Before you pull the alternator pull the connector from the regulator. Turn the ignition on and see if you have voltage on the Green/red stripe going to the "I" terminal. It won't be a full 12V because of the resistance in the Alt. light bulb. If you do, then you may need to take the Alternator to a parts store and have it checked.
Your start relay looks OK except for the two extra wires. What does that black wire with the blue crimp connector go to?
It's hard to see the ALT wire colors but if that is an original ford harness.
Black/white stripe= stator
White=field
Black/Yellow stripe= battery
Black/red stripe=ground
Before you pull the alternator pull the connector from the regulator. Turn the ignition on and see if you have voltage on the Green/red stripe going to the "I" terminal. It won't be a full 12V because of the resistance in the Alt. light bulb. If you do, then you may need to take the Alternator to a parts store and have it checked.
Thank you sir. I will give it a shot before I pull the alternator. I do not currently have a alternator light bulb that lights up in the dash. The only thing that lights up is the dash lights. I do not think I have power in any of the gauges or idiot lights. That is another project I'm working on currently. Any tips on that one? Remember, I had to replace the whole harness under the dash. I'm just not sure what else I'm missing to make it work.
Thank you sir. I will give it a shot before I pull the alternator. I do not currently have a alternator light bulb that lights up in the dash. The only thing that lights up is the dash lights. I do not think I have power in any of the gauges or idiot lights. That is another project I'm working on currently. Any tips on that one? Remember, I had to replace the whole harness under the dash. I'm just not sure what else I'm missing to make it work.
What did you replace the under-dash harness with?
You either have to wire the truck like Ford wired it or you have to completely re-wire it according to whatever aftermarket harness you use.
Here is a page from a later shop manual that gives a good depiction of the regulator/alternator wiring. If you don't have a shunted amp gauge wired in, then the charge indicator light is an essential part of the circuit. You will notice the charge indicator light is also paired with a 15-ohm resistor wire. It is there to supply exciter voltage to the regulator so it will still charge even if the blub burns out.
I still want to know what that black wire with the blue ring connector is on your start relay.
What did you replace the under-dash harness with?
You either have to wire the truck like Ford wired it or you have to completely re-wire it according to whatever aftermarket harness you use.
Here is a page from a later shop manual that gives a good depiction of the regulator/alternator wiring. If you don't have a shunted amp gauge wired in, then the charge indicator light is an essential part of the circuit. You will notice the charge indicator light is also paired with a 15-ohm resistor wire. It is there to supply exciter voltage to the regulator so it will still charge even if the blub burns out.
I still want to know what that black wire with the blue ring connector is on your start relay.
thank you for the pages. The under the dash harness was a stock one. I just feel it’s missing stuff. I am in the process of triple checking the wires.
The black wire with the blue connection is from the choke relay. It was done with another YouTube video.
The black wire with the blue connection is from the choke relay. It was done with another YouTube video.
YouTube is great for listening to music but other stuff, not so much. Both "S" and "I" connections on the start relay only have power when the engine is cranking. Of course, it will back feed form the coil wire to the "I" terminal. But you never connect an electric choke to any wire that goes to the ignition because it will rob power and cause starting and or drivability problems. It needs to be connected to a switched source totally separate from the ignition.
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