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I would start with a Wiring harness, and a carb rebuild. Once you can make it run, then I would follow the advice of a good friend, "Steering and Brakes!!! Always Steering and Brakes!!" You can throw a piston through the hood and if you can steer and stop you are still not that bad off!!!
You may need to change the oil in that 300, and put 4 quarts of Oil and one quart of ATF. That will clean the engine. Don't run it for more than a couple hours, and then change the oil again, and it will be clean.
My truck has the 240 I-6 (300's little brother) in it. It sat for 12 years before I got it. I was able to start it in about 30 minutes, with Ether.
I had to boil the carb for about 72 hours to get the varnish out.
If you decide to change the engine, don't throw that Intake away. They are hard to find. You have to order them out of Australia, and they are expensive. I was going to get one for mine, but $800 scared me away.
Looking at the picture of the start relay in post #58 you need to move the alternator wires to the other side of the relay. Where they are now at the very least it won't charge and at the worst if it does charge it will engage the starter when the engine is running.
Originally there was a junction block just below the start relay. The ALT. wires and the (Black/Yellow stripe=power to cab) connected there with a short jumper wire to the + Battery side of the start relay.
The original junction blocks were phenolic and not very durable so when they fell apart people just moved the wires to the battery side of the start relay.
Not even phenolic - that may have held up well in comparison - almost anything would have been better. Here's an original style - although the bolt is larger diameter than original on this one - the materials are the same. Anything not metal is mostly made out of paper materials it seems like. My one 4x4 truck still has its original one intact. This is one area they could have done better.
I would start with a Wiring harness, and a carb rebuild. Once you can make it run, then I would follow the advice of a good friend, "Steering and Brakes!!! Always Steering and Brakes!!" You can throw a piston through the hood and if you can steer and stop you are still not that bad off!!!
You may need to change the oil in that 300, and put 4 quarts of Oil and one quart of ATF. That will clean the engine. Don't run it for more than a couple hours, and then change the oil again, and it will be clean.
My truck has the 240 I-6 (300's little brother) in it. It sat for 12 years before I got it. I was able to start it in about 30 minutes, with Ether.
I had to boil the carb for about 72 hours to get the varnish out.
If you decide to change the engine, don't throw that Intake away. They are hard to find. You have to order them out of Australia, and they are expensive. I was going to get one for mine, but $800 scared me away.
That makes sense. From the pictures at the start of the post, I had to start with cleaning out the burned up crap and install new wiring. It was hard to tell what I was starting off with if I didn't.
Looking at the picture of the start relay in post #58 you need to move the alternator wires to the other side of the relay. Where they are now at the very least it won't charge and at the worst if it does charge it will engage the starter when the engine is running.
Originally there was a junction block just below the start relay. The ALT. wires and the (Black/Yellow stripe=power to cab) connected there with a short jumper wire to the + Battery side of the start relay.
The original junction blocks were phenolic and not very durable so when they fell apart people just moved the wires to the battery side of the start relay.
Thank you very much!! I set up the wires based on a video I was watching. I want to make sure everything is working correctly.
Not even phenolic - that may have held up well in comparison - almost anything would have been better. Here's an original style - although the bolt is larger diameter than original on this one - the materials are the same. Anything not metal is mostly made out of paper materials it seems like. My one 4x4 truck still has its original one intact. This is one area they could have done better.
Chevy was not any better. My 53 Chevy sedan delivery had one of those on each side of the radiator for the headlights. Water made them swell and break. Here they are and still available if they are helpful. Old clipboards were probably the same material.
If you are going to use a junction block just connect the wires from the ALT and the black/yellow stripe wire and run a #6 wire from the junction block to the start relay battery side. Or just connect the wires from the ALT. and the black/yellow to the battery side of the relay.
You can get wiring diagram manuals from about any of the re-pop sellers or e-bay.
You can most likely find a single pole junction block at your local parts house if you want to add one or one like this on e-bay or amazon. Red Junction Block Power Post Insulated Terminal Stud 5/16" Ring | eBay
Chevy was not any better. My 53 Chevy sedan delivery had one of those on each side of the radiator for the headlights. Water made them swell and break. Here they are and still available if they are helpful. Old clipboards were probably the same material.
Looking at the picture of the start relay in post #58 you need to move the alternator wires to the other side of the relay. Where they are now at the very least it won't charge and at the worst if it does charge it will engage the starter when the engine is running.
Originally there was a junction block just below the start relay. The ALT. wires and the (Black/Yellow stripe=power to cab) connected there with a short jumper wire to the + Battery side of the start relay.
The original junction blocks were phenolic and not very durable so when they fell apart people just moved the wires to the battery side of the start relay.
I've been running a Clifford alum intake and headers on my 300-six-banger since 1998. No problems yet with either.
The cab-donor pickup I purchased had the Clifford goodies and a cracked engine block. I had to source a good block from another donor pickup.
I do have a spare 300 with a flat cam lobe from a 1-ton dually '71 which has the same alum intake as yours. How many years do we keep spares ? hahaha
Did you share with us where you sourced your new distributor ?
You'll be under the dash soon.
Below is a shot of my 300-inline Six in my '77 F350:
Don't laugh as it is dirty. I have a fuel filter cut in the steel line between pump and carb.
Nowadays before leving the house I will normally pop the hood to check fuel hoses to make sure one is not split and spraying a fine mist over the engine.
I've been running a Clifford alum intake and headers on my 300-six-banger since 1998. No problems yet with either.
The cab-donor pickup I purchased had the Clifford goodies and a cracked engine block. I had to source a good block from another donor pickup.
I do have a spare 300 with a flat cam lobe from a 1-ton dually '71 which has the same alum intake as yours. How many years do we keep spares ? hahaha
Did you share with us where you sourced your new distributor ?
You'll be under the dash soon.
Below is a shot of my 300-inline Six in my '77 F350:
Don't laugh as it is dirty. I have a fuel filter cut in the steel line between pump and carb.
Nowadays before leving the house I will normally pop the hood to check fuel hoses to make sure one is not split and spraying a fine mist over the engine.
Thank you for the words of encouragement. I truly appreciate it. Any help or suggestions is wanted. Mine was in a fire. Yours looks a lot better than mine started out. The distributor was:
A-Team Performance - HEI Complete Distributor Straight 6 Cylinder 240 and 300 65K Coil -Compatible With Ford F100 F150 F250 E100 E150 One Wire Installation Blue Cap
Thank you for the words of encouragement. I truly appreciate it. Any help or suggestions is wanted. Mine was in a fire. Yours looks a lot better than mine started out. The distributor was:
A-Team Performance - HEI Complete Distributor Straight 6 Cylinder 240 and 300 65K Coil -Compatible With Ford F100 F150 F250 E100 E150 One Wire Installation Blue Cap
Once I figure out how the hood latch works, I'll be checking my stuff every time I take it out as well. I do not want to have a repeat of what happened to the previous owner. Great advice. Your engine looks fine. What Kind of carburetor are you running? Looks like my new one in the post below.
Decided to invest in a new carburetor. Figured out the old one was seized up and a new one looks nicer and no worries that way. Working on the fuel line and installing new throttle cable. Then it's back to wiring!!
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