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when i started my restoration on a 66 i soaked every nut and bolt i could see numerous times over a month... i was busy at work so i had time.... it paid off big time when i went to take it apart as only a handful of bolts had to be cut off... and after putting the others in my hightech harbor freight vibratory tumbler, they look like new! and of course i labeled where each one came off ..ps, i like that intake on your motor
when i started my restoration on a 66 i soaked every nut and bolt i could see numerous times over a month... i was busy at work so i had time.... it paid off big time when i went to take it apart as only a handful of bolts had to be cut off... and after putting the others in my hightech harbor freight vibratory tumbler, they look like new! and of course i labeled where each one came off ..ps, i like that intake on your motor
Soaking all the bolts is a great idea. Especially when the have 57 years of rust built up.
I’m still learning about my truck. What can you tell me about the intake?
****************** Have you pulled the valve cover to see what's under there? A fire hot enough to melt the solder from the radiator filler neck was certainly over 1000 degrees at the top of the engine.
****************** Have you pulled the valve cover to see what's under there? A fire hot enough to melt the solder from the radiator filler neck was certainly over 1000 degrees at the top of the engine.
that’s next. I’m debating on replacing the radiator getting it repaired.
Replacing the radiator cap stub is doable....by a reputable radiator repair shop. Question is how much $$?
I would also ask if they can pressure test the entire core BEFORE replacing the stub...as the fire may have melted / damaged other sections of the unit.
Replacing the radiator cap stub is doable....by a reputable radiator repair shop. Question is how much $$?
I would also ask if they can pressure test the entire core BEFORE replacing the stub...as the fire may have melted / damaged other sections of the unit.
****************** Have you pulled the valve cover to see what's under there? A fire hot enough to melt the solder from the radiator filler neck was certainly over 1000 degrees at the top of the engine.
So,Earl had a small fire before I purchased him. It’s been about 5 years since it happened. The previous owner held onto him hoping to revive him. He decided to go a different direction.
Did the previous owner mention any details on what caused the fire?
The earlier photos indicate the radiator out of the truck. Did you get a different radiator to install into Earl ?
Interesting to see your I6 outfitted with headers.... I wonder if the internals were OEM or maybe it was built with some HP goodies.... the mystery continues.....
Did the previous owner mention any details on what caused the fire?
The earlier photos indicate the radiator out of the truck. Did you get a different radiator to install into Earl ?
Interesting to see your I6 outfitted with headers.... I wonder if the internals were OEM or maybe it was built with some HP goodies.... the mystery continues.....
BarnieTrk
The previous owner mentioned the fuel pressure regulator failed. I am guessing fuel pump since I have no idea what a fuel pressure regulator is. I put the radiator in to make sure I had the bolts and it was the correct radiator. I need to pull it out and get a new stem and make sure it's going to work. The headers were an interesting touch I thought.
Did the previous owner mention any details on what caused the fire? Interesting to see your I6 outfitted with headers.... I wonder if the internals were OEM or maybe it was built with some HP goodies.... the mystery continues.....
Flameridge,
Looking at your pics again, I noticed that the fuel supply line coming to the 2-barrel Holley carburetor has a hose clamp still attached. This would indicate to me that the Previous Owner (PO) had a rubber/plastic fuel supply hose feeding the carburetor. I would suggest THIS may be a prime indicator as to what was the primary reason for the engine fire. All Original Equipment by Manufacturer (OEM) and most rebuilt fuel systems run solid metal (steel lines) or at least stainless steel braided lines up stream from the fuel pump, where the fuel pump boosts the line pressure and the line is subjected to higher heat exposures up and over the engine. The increased pressures and heat are also the reasons not to install an inline fuel filter between the fuel pump and carburetor. Installing an inline fuel filter between the tank outlet and the fuel pump places it low - out of the heat - opposite side of the exhaust - and only has gravity-fed fuel pressures to deal with - a better and safer option.
Realize too, the Offenhauser intake manifold is also a pricey, high performance part. I'd try to clean and salvage it.
I am not too sure the Holley is salvageable....but maybe....
Flameridge,
Looking at your pics again, I noticed that the fuel supply line coming to the 2-barrel Holley carburetor has a hose clamp still attached. This would indicate to me that the Previous Owner (PO) had a rubber/plastic fuel supply hose feeding the carburetor. I would suggest THIS may be a prime indicator as to what was the primary reason for the engine fire. All Original Equipment by Manufacturer (OEM) and most rebuilt fuel systems run solid metal (steel lines) or at least stainless steel braided lines up stream from the fuel pump, where the fuel pump boosts the line pressure and the line is subjected to higher heat exposures up and over the engine. The increased pressures and heat are also the reasons not to install an inline fuel filter between the fuel pump and carburetor. Installing an inline fuel filter between the tank outlet and the fuel pump places it low - out of the heat - opposite side of the exhaust - and only has gravity-fed fuel pressures to deal with - a better and safer option.
Realize too, the Offenhauser intake manifold is also a pricey, high performance part. I'd try to clean and salvage it.
I am not too sure the Holley is salvageable....but maybe....
BarnieTrk
Thank you for the suggestion for the fuel lines. That’s a great idea. I was trying to figure out a route without going over the engine. The previous owners explanation doesn’t make sense to me on how the fire started.
The intake manifold is as clean as I can get it for now. It took me a while to get a shine again. I’m putting the truck back together and then I can make a decision on what needs replaced
Type in FORD INLINE SIX in their SEARCH box at the right.
Take a look at the photo on the "How to Building a Ford inline Six for Durability and Power".....notice how the metal fuel line is routed around the front of the rocker arm cover. This also allows removal of the cover without having to disturb the fuel line.
Type in FORD INLINE SIX in their SEARCH box at the right.
Take a look at the photo on the "How to Building a Ford inline Six for Durability and Power".....notice how the metal fuel line is routed around the front of the rocker arm cover. This also allows removal of the cover without having to disturb the fuel line.
****************** Have you pulled the valve cover to see what's under there? A fire hot enough to melt the solder from the radiator filler neck was certainly over 1000 degrees at the top of the engine.
