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I was under the impression that the Rust Encapsulator would stick to bare metal as well? I'm sure there will be a lot of bar metal spots after using the wire wheel.
You shouldn't use petroleum lubricants when wire wheeling . You can embed them in the surface of the metal and cause issues with paint adhesion. You literally fold the metal over on itself at a microscopic level trapping little pockets of oil. There's a name for the process, but I forget what it's called. It used to be a method used by steel mills to put a rust resistant surface on the stock they were selling.
Yes, but when minor rust is sealed, under dry conditions, it becomes inert once any oxygen that was trapped with it reacts and is used up. If rust is sealed under paint with enough moisture, it can create a reaction that releases oxygen from the trapped moisture and fuels itself until all the O2 in the moisture is used.
2 big things to understand about any body work type work:
Is if you don't understand the different types of materials, the application methods or how the prep work should be done when mixing and matching product lines, pick one system you like and follow their instructions 100%. If you have any questions call their help/tech line.
And spend 90% of your time doing prep/cleaning. A simple brush on Rustoleum oil based primer/paint job will last quite a while if the prep is done right and it's maintained, meaning washed regularly and touched up as needed.
I was under the impression that the Rust Encapsulator would stick to bare metal as well? I'm sure there will be a lot of bar metal spots after using the wire wheel.
KBS frame coater will stick to bare metal. Check out their website
Ospho is just phosphoric acid, like alot of rust converters. It does treat bare steel, it's called pickling, and it's used to protect steel in corrosive environments. The reaction also roughens up the surface, helping paint adhesion. The surface needs to be wet with solution constantly and heat really helps the process. Larger parts/areas can be done by wrapping them in phos. acid soaked paper towel, then plastic wrap to stop it from drying. Dipping smaller parts in heated phos. acid will put a protective layer on relatively quickly. Don't heat it indoors because of the fumes. Depending on what your using for a top coat product after the phos.acid treatment you might not have to do anything or you may need to rinse, or wash, and scrub it or possibly neutralize the acid with something like a baking soda/water solution.
Well if it does treat bare metal I could not really tell.
I also did this outside as seen by the pictures and it was not that warm and other than spraying it a lot to get it wet I let it dry over a few days.
I then hit it with a garden hose to rinse it off, did not scrub it. Let dry a few days then paint again it was cool when doing all this.
Originally Posted by idealtrucks
I was under the impression that the Rust Encapsulator would stick to bare metal as well? I'm sure there will be a lot of bar metal spots after using the wire wheel.
Well yes & no LOL
If you brush it on like I did it did not want to coat (stick) bare metal areas, left bare brush marks, where on the rust areas it did not.
That is why I had to do a 2nd coat but other wise it did stick to the bare metal areas.
So maybe I used the wrong work and should have said if brushing it on over bare metal it will leave bare brush marks and will need 2 or 3 coats to make sure it is covered.
If sprayed on I guess you would not have this issue but I have not sprayed Encapsulator so cant report on that.
But yes it dose stick to bare metal.
FYI I used Eastwood's Encapsulator in black.
I have also used Eastwood's inturnel frame coating with the 360* spray head on a hose and that worked pretty good too.
Dave ----