Sounds like a good candidate for a write up and addition to the Tech Folder.

 

It's probably easiest to just the lay the cable out on the truck itself then cut it. If you worry about the correct amount of cable to buy, layout on the truck with some string first then measure the overall length of the string.

 

If you’re contemplating building your own battery cables, I strongly recommend reviewing the following sight: https://marinehowto.com/making-your-own-battery-cables/

 

That's what I was holding on to for a Plan B, and will probably use anyway just so I can address any peculiar routing issues I may face.


Thanks. Nice site. Lots of great info. Biggest downside (for me) is the cost for tool I'll rarely use. I do get it, though, regarding the importance of proper die fit.


I at least got my replacement Interstates yesterday and will install those today. I got 4yrs 3mos out of the ones I removed, which is less than the 5+ years I used to get out of Redtops, but I simply cannot justify the higher cost of the Redtops (or other AGM options). The Interstates were only $109 each at Costco, and they meet my needs.

 

Do you have to replace the entire set of battery cables?

Are you able to just replace just the ends of the battery cables?

 

Pete, I could lend you my 16 ton crimper I used if you like. You are just a few hours away from me and we could either meet up or send it for ~$15 through the mail. I spent $63 at the time when I purchased it in 2018 if that gives you any sort of a reference.

A snip from the Amazon listing is below.

 

I probably do not have to replace the entire set of cables, but hey, the truck is 20 years old, and if I dig in, I'd just as soon do the entire set. I've had a decent amount of corrosion at different times over the years at either end of the cables, and I suspect potential creepage past the lugs and into the sheath. I might be completely wrong about that, but I really like the idea of upsizing the cables for less resistance. Side note: While I'm being all electrical, I'm going to also get the heavy duty headlight harness upgrade and finally install the momentary GPR switch in the same effort.

Most kind of you, Sous, and I'm very grateful for the offer. I am willing to spend some money on a tool, but just not the $140+ for the tool referenced in the link above from MDHunter. I actually already have a hammer crimper which I could use, but would much rather do the job with more control and better (more even) crimping geometry. Looking around on Amazon, I found one which looks identical to yours for $55, and that's probably the route I'll take if I go the DIY path.

My next step right now is to get past my current severe cold/laryingitis and use some string to get my measurements. Then, I can review the mil-spec post clamp options, lug options, cable options, and see how it comes together in an overall comparison.

 

Probably about 5 years ago I cut off all the ends of my battery cables and crimped new ends on with the tool that Sous posted earlier. This worked well for several years but in the end it was time to replace the cables. Unfortunately I did not have the time or the patience to make my own custom set so it boiled down to either custom battery cables or CE auto electric cables. Both of them are quality sets of cables but I ended up going with CE auto electric. I talked to the owner Tony a couple of times when I was trying to make my decision, he was very helpful and always picked up the phone when I called to answer any of my questions. I have no doubt that custom battery cables has a quality product and many on here have been happy with them. With that said If you want top of the line go with the CE auto electric. You really can't go wrong either way

 

The 2000 I have was made in 1999, which makes it nearly 24 years old, while still running the original battery cables.

Come to think of it, I have a 1989 Ford that also still has the original battery cables...now 34 years old.

I wouldn't even call that old, because I also have a 1979 Ford E-350 that likewise still has the original battery cables, now going on 44 years old.

The 2002 and newer Ford battery cable clamps are lead free, but unfortunately are not problem free.

I understand how corrosion can wick its way into the wire jacket and between the strands, but given that you have said you wanted to save money by not buying a one time usage tool, and furthermore, save money by not upgrading to AGM batteries (which have effectively eliminated corrosion in every vehicle I've installed them in), it seemed like a money saving idea to also consider just changing out the clamps.

There are some amazing looking battery clamps available nowadays... with multiple connection ports to add accessories. I say amazing "looking" rather than simply "amazing" because I don't know how reliable the visually stunning battery clamps I see posted from time to time on this forum actually function in real life as far as corrosion resistance and connection resilience in a vibrating environment. But in your shoes, I'd be tempted to use all the copper you already paid for when you bought the truck.

When I wanted bigger battery cables, I just added a couple of smaller battery cables to share the load with the OEM battery cable. This was to avoid the inherent waste that accompanies up-sizing battery cables by replacing them, where no further use is found for the original battery cable that was removed. It never gets used in another vehicle, because repurposing the old removed cable into a different vehicle application isn't worth the effort. And no one wants to buy the removed cable without decent ends, So it becomes wasted or recycled for scrap. I couldn't see getting a penny on the dollar for good copper, so I just added another (smaller, less expensive) cable, adding redundancy at the same time as gaining the effect of a bigger cable, without losing out on the investment in the original cables that were bought with the price of the truck.

As for resolving how to crimp the ends, I ended up buying pre crimped Ektron battery cables made by Standard Ignition (Standard Motor Products) from the local auto supply house. I liked how Standard crimps lugs on the ends of their cables. Lots of flat surface area with the long bladed tongue lug, where the stranding of the wire flows all the way to the very tip of the lug, as illustrated below:


















When crossing the radiator in front of the truck with a secondary parallel cable running under the OEM cable, thoughts of dead shorts in a front end collision came to mind. The across the front battery cable received an extra layer of a more durable spiral wound jacketing protection, to lesson insulation penetration when the cable is pinched by smashed sheet metal.










All the cables above were pre crimped by Standard Ignition. No tool required.


However, I have also crimped bulk battery cable, using the method illustrated below, which has saved me from having to buy one of those cable crimping tools that are imported from overseas.


If you have a shop press, then a hydraulic alternative to the single purpose cable crimping tool, is a simple die. Mine seen below is a hexagon shape.

 

Nice work, guys!

 

I get the cost constraints, when I did mine, I actually had five vehicles to do; three trucks (F235/F350/2500) a tractor, and my boat (3 batteries); it got pricy quickly.

I swore if I was gong thru the pains of doing them, I would do it right and do it once.

I upgraded all the wire sizes using welding cable from TE TEMCO (EBay), USA made copper cables (not CCA) and they sell by the foot, $3- $5 a foot, depending on gage.

On the positive side I used 2/0 cable between the batteries, factory I believe was 2 ga, I went up two sizes. Battery to starter I went with 3/0. Figure 5 feet of 2/0, and 5 feet of 3/0, so 10 feet for the positive side.

On the ground side I upgraded to 2/0, figure about 4 feet per side from battery to block.

I used FTZ marine grade power lug crimp on connectors, tin plated over copper. Those I got from Bay State marine, $3-$4 each, and Marine grade heat shrink (double wall lined with hot melt glue for waterproofing).

Quick guess is about $150 to do the F250

As to the crimping tool, couple of options: Look to the secondary market for a used one, I bought an AMP Roto Crimp ($1500 tool) on Ebay for $120. Or buy the FTZ crimper for $130, use it and sell it on Ebay for $120.

Also, get your connectors from a reputable source from a reputable manufacturer. I ran across a bunch of JUNK; Copper plated steel, tin plated aluminum etc.. Look at quality manufacturers such as FTZ, MOLEX, Thomas/Betts, 3M. I went with FTZ, they meet MILSPEC, the highest standard, even tougher than NASA

 

Great additional insights and input, guys. THANKS! The details about footage are helpful, MDHunter.

I also appreciate the multiple referrals to good cables and lug suppliers as well.

Y2K, I have to admit that your suggested use of smaller gauge additional wire to compensate for higher cost large cable and just replacing the clamps alone are admirable penny-wise solutions. That said, I'm not trying to completely pinch every penny on this project, and like simplicity a LOT. That said, I'm still be inclined to just run new and larger single cables. A high cost for a single- or rare-use tool is just a sunk cost, unless I do as MDHunter suggested and sell it afterwards to recoup most of the money (not a bad thought or something I've not done before, either). I have already scoured FB marketplace for used crimpers, and cannot find a cost-competitive solution to the Amazon option. I can actually see myself using the tool again in the coming years, but it will be rare.

Hmmm.... AGM's minimizing corrosion issues. I've not considered that potential (no pun intended). Thinking back, though, the 10 or so years I ran the red tops, I believe I had fewer corrosion issues, but I cannot say for sure as it really was not something I was looking for or taking notice of. I've already purchased the Interstates, and will consider this issue more in depth about 4 years down the road when it's time to replace them again.

 

When I started looking at redoing the starting circuit on all my vehicles, I was confused by all the different cables out there, which eventually led me deep down the Rabbit Hole.

Battery Cable is designed for low (60v), voltage, IF it’s SAE J1127, it will be resistant to common automotive fluids (oil, gas, diesel etc.).

Welding Cable is designed for higher (600v) voltages, generally more flexible, and must be flame resistant (battery cable does not). Most US. Manufactured welding cable meets SAE J1127, as well as IEC60245 and UL1426. Welding cable is used for many other purposes besides welding: power cables for generators, jumper cables, portable power lines any electric circuit less than 600v. Welding cable can be used as battery cables, battery cables should not be used in any other application.

Now keep in mind that SAE, IEC and UL are all private organizations which develop specifications and testing requirements. They are non- Governmental and have no enforcement powers. Manufacturers who build /test to these standards do so voluntarily.

Marine wire and Boat cable on the other hand must comply with Federal Regulations, (CFR) Department of Transportations and US Coast guard Regulations, and we all know that the Feds have enforcement powers. The requirements are pretty lengthy but Marine wire easily meets SAE J1127 (it’s a pretty low standard) IEC60245 and UL1426. Couple of standout requirements, operate in wet (submerged) environments and have self-extinguishing jackets.

There are also standards for wire crimping: https://marinehowto.com/marine-wire-termination/

So, short trip down the bunny trail 😊

 

Thanks, MDHunter. I've been coming closer to concluding that I'll end up using welding cable. I love the thought of marine grade, but in all honesty, upgrading to welding cable from OEM should give my system even more life than the 20 years I've gotten from OEM, and I sort of don't know if I'll even care at that point (if I'm even alive and still have the truck).