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I found a set of NOS battery cables for my '82 F150, wanted to see what other people think about using a NOS set vs buying a new set in the same length.
I am fighting myself right now part of me thinks its a big risk at the price as they could have corrosion in the cables even though they are NOS and look good. Other part of me wants to get the correct style mounts and battery terminal covers.
Depends on how they were stored. When I was in the .mil Uncle Sam would disgorge all kinds of stuff older n' the hills from some storage depot, and usually in very serviceable condition. Rubber parts, electronics, woolen items, hydraulics, food, you name it, they have a preservation and storage criteria for everything. (My roomate was almost 7' and had to get a waiver to get in. Had a hard time getting certain uniform items that would fit. At the CIF they did issue him a pair of perfectly fine jungle boots that were dated from the early 1960s, they didn't have much call for 15W or whatever they were LOL.)
In the case of battery cables, it's actual use that does a lot of damage I think. They get cooked and work hardened by overcurrent, and exposed to road salt and pollution. I think they should be OK if they were kept in a stable environment. Can you inspect them and maybe return them if they are green inside?
In short to reiterate the above if they were not stored outside in the sun and the rain or underwater they will be fine. But to be honest the manufactures use the absolute minimum they can get away with for wire gauge this for kind of part.
I'm not fan of of the aftermarket replacement battery cables either as they may not scrimp much on materials but they sure do on quality especially on the bonding between the lug/clamp and the cable.
I would be more inclined to fabricate your own and use mil style battery clamps and cables with lug ends. If factory correctness is not the goal here and functional usability is that is the way to go. This is the one thing that is done on ALL MILCOTS vehicles regardless of manufacture.
I detailed the correct way to do build a battery cable on the site a few years ago not sure if you can search the thread up or not.
I went with cables from Auto Zone but you have to check as they have 2 different gauge cables.
I went with the largest gauge cable and I have not had any issues so far.
Because I still have the truck in pieces and some lights stay on so I do not leave the battery hooked up.
Because of this I just place on & off when I need to move the truck, again with out any issues just placed on the post.
I did run the cables in the factory locations right down to adding a tab in the middle of the ground cable to the frame before going to 1 of the starter bolts
Dave ----
Thanks for the reply. Below is a photo of the battery to solenoid cable, wants $50 for it that's why I was asking about how it would age if it was never installed. Didn't want to spend $50 for this one cable in my plan of replacing all the cables with new only to end up with trouble shooting a problem. I also know this is not the exact correct one as it should be a D1PZ-14300-AG, but this one here is 10" in length though which makes it the right length.
If I get generic new from the local parts store I know the lengths as indicated in the parts guide, battery to solenoid 10", battery to ground 38 3/4" and solenoid to starter 53". if need be I could even just buy bulk starter wire and crimp/solder the eyes on them if need be. I just know I want to replace mine, ground was replaced but I couldn't get the right length so the one I have is way too long, I replaced the battery to solenoid few years ago but the terminal got damaged some how but the solenoid to starter cable as far as I know is OE ford from '82. I know we never replaced the cable since we had the truck since '92/'93.
In short to reiterate the above if they were not stored outside in the sun and the rain or underwater they will be fine. But to be honest the manufactures use the absolute minimum they can get away with for wire gauge this for kind of part.
I'm not fan of of the aftermarket replacement battery cables either as they may not scrimp much on materials but they sure do on quality especially on the bonding between the lug/clamp and the cable.
I would be more inclined to fabricate your own and use mil style battery clamps and cables with lug ends. If factory correctness is not the goal here and functional usability is that is the way to go. This is the one thing that is done on ALL MILCOTS vehicles regardless of manufacture.
I detailed the correct way to do build a battery cable on the site a few years ago not sure if you can search the thread up or not.
@matthewq4b Find it for me and I'll add it to the Sticky/subforums.
Good thing I didn't pick that cable up. I didn't get it yet cause I was still thinking on it, was thinking if I go with a 3G alternator upgrade running a second charge wire in 10ga along with the OE charge wire to the solenoid would be pushing it on connections at the solenoid. Been thinking getting an aftermarket positive and negative cable with the 12ga pigtail to make a harness for my auxiliary fuse box I have. Would cut down on the items at the ground on the block and the positive at the solenoid.
1) the Sticky, under the electrical section
2) created a link to it in the FAQ subforum
It's up to you if you (or anybody) wants to create a proper write-up, you can even do it directly in the HOWTOs forum if you like. Just let me know if you'd like to add it to the Sticky.
for it that's why I was asking about how it would age if it was never installed.
